[Farmall] 1925 M/D 10-20

Tue Nov 8 13:15:04 PST 2005

KO-
I related my activities of the day earlier and I hope
you will give it a read.  I must mention... when that
final, stubborn plug let loose, I DID notice a bit of
"crap" around the plug hole.  I tried to bring it away
from there so that it did not fall down upon the
cylinder/valves but, I am sure, some of must have done
so.  Is this a problem?  Will it dissolve in the
mixture?  Will the entire head have to be pulled now
or at some point?
Also, the gasoline filler cap came off easily.  The
distillate tank cap won't budge.  Can I "persuade" it
with a channel locks or would doing so be a bad idea?
Thanks.
JM

--- Karl Olmstead <olmstead at ridgenet.net> wrote:

> James, the plugs require a 15/16 wrench".  Wouldn't
> hurt to spray a 
> penetrating oil around the bases, but probably won't
> be necessary.  You 
> won't break them off; at worst you might round off
> the wrench flats if 
> they're really stuck tight.  You probably don't even
> need a socket; a box 
> end wrench will work.  The spark plug holes are so
> big that it is easy to 
> shine a flashlight inside and (in the dark) see what
> the interior of the 
> cylinder looks like.
> 
> There might be some rust in the exhaust, but unless
> you find one or two 
> cylinders full of water, it is unlikely that any
> major amount of stuff has 
> built up in the exhaust manifold.  Generally not a
> problem.  I usually dump 
> some diesel fuel mixed with automatic transmission
> fluid down the exhaust 
> manifold also; it helps break loose any sticky
> valves.
> 
> When you get to the stage where you are attempting
> to turn over the engine, 
> remove the rocker arm cover and tap on the valves to
> make sure that they 
> aren't stuck.  If you succeed in turning the engine
> and a valve happens to 
> be stuck, you'll bend the pushrod or break the
> rocker arm.
> 
> Clutches are usually not stuck badly; the rear main
> seal is just a hunk of 
> felt, so some oil tends to seep past and ooze out
> onto the clutch, 
> preventing serious rust.  The exception to this rule
> is if a mouse has made 
> a nest in the clutch housing.  If that happens, the
> clutch will be a rusted 
> mess.
> 
> Operating and service manuals and parts catalogs for
> a 10-20 are available 
> from www.binderbooks.com .
> 
> You can't post pictures on this bulletin board, but
> you can offer to email 
> them to interested parties.  Count me in...
> 
> olmstead at ridgenet.net
> 
> Or you can put them up on a web page somewhere and
> tell us where they are. 
> They'll need to be reduced in size (cropped and
> shrunk to something like 
> 640x480 pixels) so that guys like me with slow
> dial-up connections can stand 
> to download the pictures.  Thanks for taking the
> time to show them to us!
> 
> -Karl (in Ridgecrest, CA, middle of Mojave Desert)
> 
> 
> ------------------
> > KO-
> > Tomorrow I am going to borrow a digital camera
> from a
> > neighbor and take some shots of the tractor and
> > H-'n-M.  I am an idiot, of course, so that same
> fellow
> > will, hopefully, help me "post" them, if that is
> the
> > correct term.
> > While there, I will make the first attempt to
> remedy
> > the M/D.  I don't know what socket size the plugs
> > are...I would imagine 7/8, but I don't know for
> sure.
> > IYO...how readily will the plugs cut loose? 
> Should I
> > be concerned about putting too much behind the
> effort
> > and break them off at the neck?  Should I spray
> > something alone the lines of WD-40 on them before
> > taking the shot?  Clearly, I don't want to do MORE
> > damage in the attempt to fix it!  What about the
> > exhaust?  Will there likely be a "rats nest" of
> crap
> > inside of it?  Do you feel that the clutch plate
> is
> > rusted tight?  Any time you could dedicate to
> guiding
> > me would be OK with me, naturally.
> > Where do you live, by the way?
> > JM
> >
> > --- Karl Olmstead <olmstead at ridgenet.net> wrote:
> >
> >> James, remove the sparkplugs from your 10-20, and
> >> wait for nightfall.  Take
> >> a powerful flashlight out with you, and shine it
> >> into the sparkplug holes.
> >> You should be able to see the opposite cylinder
> >> wall.  It wouldn't be
> >> surprising to find three good cylinders and one
> >> rusty one.  That'll be the
> >> stuck piston, and you will be able to see just
> how
> >> much rust has
> >> accumulated.
> >>
> >> While you're at it, squirt some oil, ATF or
> >> penetrating oil in each
> >> cylinder, put the plugs back in, and let the
> engine
> >> set for a few days
> >> before you try unsticking it.
> >>
> >> The rules are different for old tractors vs.
> antique
> >> cars.  In general, no
> >> judging takes place at tractor shows, so the
> >> atmosphere is much less
> >> competitive than it is at car shows.  A tractor
> with
> >> all its original decals
> >> in place on old paint is looked upon as a
> historical
> >> treasure, not an old
> >> tractor with ugly paint.
> >>
> >> -Karl
> >>
> >>
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> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
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