[AJD] AR Project tractor

Tommy Wilson t17wilson at cox.net
Wed Nov 2 05:16:22 PST 2005


Chris,
         Thanks for the info. Yes, I think I can make it out, although I 
may have to make a chart! LOL. I plan on contacting the seller to see just 
what he has to have for it.....TW

At 09:17 PM 10/31/05 -0800, you wrote:
>According to PL-AR2 The block is an A3703R sub for
>AA4373R. PC675 lists the same blocks for the AR and
>also that the late styled A's over s/n 648,000  also
>used the A3703R or AA4374R block.  I would bet that
>you could use a late A or early 60 block in your AR.
>
>   As far as heads go, PL-AR2 says A3367R sub for
>AA4008R is the late AR head.  PC675 says that A3376R
>was used from 272,000 to 279368.  Above that A4226R
>was used for the AR.  on the A side it shows A3367R or
>A4226R could be used on S/N 584,00 and up.
>
>    I would bet any head from an A 584,000 and up would
>work as well as any block from the same serial number
>range.  If you try using the lower ones it will not
>work,  I tried to put a late A head on my 1945 A and
>they aren't even close.  You have to match the A2325R
>head with A2324R block on the cast frame styled A's.
>Hope this is helpful and that you can understand it.
>I am using Captain Morgan's cough syrup tonight.
>
>                Chris
>           Chris
>
>--- Chris C <jdnutinwa at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > Greg and Tony,
> >
> >     I think you can use any late A block on the
> > styled
> > AR's.  They don't bolt up through the frame like
> > they
> > do on the unstyled tractors.
> >
> >     I recently picked up a 1950 AR through Dean,
> > that
> > had the block and head split wide open,  and then
> > another more complete AR with a bad radiator.  If I
> > weren't so sick right now I would have had the
> > radiator apart and to the welding shop.
> >
> >      I need to make a call the the machine shop
> > today
> > and check on an engine block that I brought in two
> > weeks ago.  If it is good,  then I have an extra
> > late
> > A block in the garge that has a chunk broken out of
> > one of the cylinders (threw a rod)  and would need
> > to
> > be sleeved.  I have had good luck finding heads an
> > blocks by placing want ads on Yesterdays Tractors.
> > You'll get a wide variety of price offerings,  but I
> > just bought an early styled A head with valves that
> > had been tested for $150 including shipping.  truly
> > a
> > deal.  Unfortunately the parts A that came with the
> > AR
> > was hardly good for scrap.. I may have a good late A
> > head,  that also depends on what the machine shop
> > says.  I have 3 there now,  one is bad,  the other
> > two
> > I don't know yet.  The one could be welded and be ok
> > again.
> >
> >           Chris Carl
> >
> > --- greg at theoldtractorcompany.com wrote:
> >
> > > For whatever it's worth, my styled 1952 AR is
> > > perhaps the best running tractor I own. Mine ran
> > > when we traded it in and just needed  a paint job
> > > basically. This is the one I put on full
> > > steel w/extensions basically ruining it for parade
> > > duty where it excelled.
> > > Would have to check but I believe that block is
> > the
> > > difficult one to locate when it's not
> > > repairable so might be careful there. Would have
> > to
> > > check casting #"s or perhaps Chris Carl
> > > would have one as he seems to be buying tractors
> > > like a madman recently (!)
> > > Or maybe Dean. Welding might work although I've
> > not
> > > ever had too much luck with that.
> > > Greg
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Greg Stephen
> > > The Old Tractor Company
> > > Stephen Equipment Company
> > > PO Box 709
> > > Franktown, CO 80116
> > > 303-663-5246
> > > 303-468-0377 FAX<<--GREAT WAY TO REACH ME!
> > >
> > > On Sun Oct 30 17:20 , Tommy Wilson
> > > <t17wilson at cox.net> sent:
> > >
> > > >Came upon a 1950 John Deere AR today that is for
> > > sale. The current owner
> > > >knows virtually nothing about the tractor. The
> > bad
> > > part about that is that
> > > >he probably thinks it is worth more than it is.
> > > Here is what I found:
> > > >Everything is froze, transmission lever,
> > throttle,
> > > lift lever, etc. and
> > > >certainly the motor. All tires are flat and
> > > although they have much tread
> > > >left, are probably dry rotted to the point of no
> > > return. Exhaust pipe from
> > > >stack to motor gone. Magneto gone. Fuel line
> > gone.
> > > And probably the
> > > >biggest, there is a lateral crack on the right
> > side
> > > just below where the
> > > >upper water pipe goes into the motor. No telling
> > if
> > > there are more cracks
> > > >or not, but I'm wondering if that one may be
> > welded
> > > fairly easily.
> > > >Now for the good parts! Cosmetically very sound,
> > > fenders very straight,
> > > >sheet metal straight. Not much wear on the pulley
> > > from the clutch brake so
> > > >I'm guessing the tractor never did a lot of work.
> > > Give me your thoughts on
> > > >what it would take to repair the motor and what
> > the
> > > tractor might be worth
> > > >(or if it's even worth messing with).
> > > Thanks....Tommy
> > > >
> > > >Tommy Wilson
> > > >Ruston, LA
> > > >1950 IH H
> > > >1951 JD B
> > > >1952 IH SC
> > > >
> > > >
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Tommy Wilson
Ruston, LA
1950 IH H
1951 JD B
1952 IH SC





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