[AT] Quiet list and tapered axles

[Larry D. Goss]

I took the plunge this winter and invested in a hydraulic gear puller
from Northern Tool.  I needed it last fall -- haven't had the
opportunity to use it since I bought it, but I'm hopeful that it will
replace the BFH I've had to use in the past.  I was disassembling a
sickle bar mower last fall and the main input pulley was giving me fits.
I put a stubby hydraulic cylinder behind it (an add-on to my
Port-A-Power) and was able to push the cast iron pulley off without
using any hammer force at all, so that's when I decided to buy the
hydraulic gear puller.  Now, all I need is something to test it on. :-)

Larry

-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Fallon
Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2005 9:42 AM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] Quiet list and tapered axles

Thanks all,  I was pretty sure I was on the right track.  I will try and

round up a bigger puller I already have the BFH.

Bruce Fallon
Freeland WA. 98249
bfallon at whidbey.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "charlie hill" <chill8 at cox.net>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2005 4:39 AM
Subject: Re: [AT] Quiet list and tapered axles


One more thing.  You might try letting someone else hit it.  I asked a
guy
to help me get an aluminum propellor off a stern drive shaft once.  He
took
a big hammer and hit the end of the shaft about 10 times harder than I
would
have.  It popped off.  He looked at me and said "It's not mine.  I
wasn't
afraid to hit it."

Charlie
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bruce Fallon" <bfallon at whidbey.com>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2005 10:52 PM
Subject: [AT] Quiet list and tapered axles


> List is very quiet.
>
> Anybody have any ideas how to remove a brake drum from a tapered axle
> shaft.
> I was trying to remove the one on my Huber,  I put a piece of angle
iron
> with another piece of steel over the end of the axle shaft and against
the
> nut loosened but still on it and tightened bolts in the lug bolt holes
to
> apply pressure to the end of the shaft as a puller and beat on the
drum
> and
> heated the center of the hub but finally had to give up.  I put the
nut
> back
> on loose and graded with it for a while but when checked later it was
> still
> tight.  I had heard in the old days of dodges and studebakers with the
> tapered hubs that was a trick to loosen the nut and drive them until
they
> moved.  I don't want to beat on the end of the shaft and bell it to
where
> the nut cannot be put back on.
>
> Bruce Fallon
> Freeland WA. 98249
> bfallon at whidbey.com
>
>
>
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