[AT] grease in steering gearbox

[Almost-Running Deere]

I think everyone knows that making remarks about a Welsh plug would not be 
smart.

Paints a rather visually distubing picture after reading your books on 
outhouses and food though.

Dana
SE PA

>From: "Roger Welsch" <captneb at micrord.com>
>Reply-To: Antique tractor email discussion group 
><at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>Subject: Re: [AT] grease in steering gearbox
>Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 07:45:04 -0500
>
>Welch plug?  Has my fame spread?  Word of my recent health problems?  What
>is a Welch plug?  And please, no smart remarks.....
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Chris Britton" <c.britton at worldnet.att.net>
>To: <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>Sent: Thursday, June 09, 2005 7:11 AM
>Subject: [AT] grease in steering gearbox
>
>
> > >I would think that it would easier just to replace the seals, most  
>seals
> > >can
> > >be found at your local Bearing and seal store.  I just replaced  the
>seals
> > >on
> >
> > I'm going to guess you don't work on ford steering boxes too often..
>nothing
> > easy
> > about the ordeal at all.  First.. there are 2 style boxes on the 8n, 
>early
> > and late.
> > In either case.. the seal doesn't go bad due to a bearing.. but rather a
> > bushing.
> > R&R procedure is to remove the grill, remove the headlamps, remove the
>fuel
> > line,
> > drain gas tank... remove steering wheel, remove hood and integral gas
> > tank... This
> > is a tad bulky as the hood, doglegs and gastank and tank frame come off 
>as
>a
> > unit..
> > block and tackle is helpfull, or a few friends.. as the hood has to come
> > more or less
> > straight up due to the radiator clearance between the hood and the gas
>tank.
> > Next is battery, battery box .  Then you pull all the instrumentation,
>tach
> > cable, oil line,
> > oil gauge, remove wires to the ammeter, voltage regulator wire
> > terminal/ignition reesistor,
> > ignition switch.. etc.  Next you pull the dash cowling.
> > After al this, the steering box is visible... to pull the sector seals 
>you
> > have to pull the draglink
> > arms from the sectors.. usually not easy.. they never pop right off even
> > with a 3-jaw puller
> >  then remove the top of the box and the side covers, then you pull the
> > sectors, and the wormshaft
> > and ballnut.
> >
> > At this point you then remove the box from the chassie, and hammer out a
> > welch plug int he bottom
> > so that you can snatch the lower thrust bearing race.  Also have to 
>snatch
> > the top thrust bearing race from
> > the box cover... it's usually easier to simply weld a bead around the 
>face
> > of the race and let it draw and
> > fall out.. then tap new races in using a socket or seat tool.
> >
> > Now, on the old style box, there is no real sector backlash adjustment, 
>so
> > you use the sector side covers as the backlash adjustment, as they are 
>not
> > perfectly round.. but are eccentric.. so as you turn them in the 
>housing,
> > you can try to find a more snug spot on the sector bushings.  if all the
> > adjustment is gone, you have to drive out the bushings , size new ones,
>and
> > then reinstall.. at the same time you change the worn seals.  On the new
> > style boxes the bushings are a tad less important with the adjustable
> > sectors... however it is good measure to remove/size/install new 
>bushings
> > and seals anyway.
> > Clean sump, and reassemble box.  The leading sector has a master tooth 
>and
> > must be mated correctly with the ballnut and trailing sector or the
>steering
> > will be off.  With new races and bearings, you have to set the preload 
>by
> > using metal shim/gaskets between the box cover and the box.  There is 
>also
>a
> > bearing at the top of the steering tube.. usually good measure to r&r 
>that
> > as well.  Refill, and then reassemble tractor in reverse order.
> >
> > Parts wise.. if your sectors are bad, or if the ballnut/wormshaft is 
>bad..
> > it's usually cheaper to buy a complete box from a salvage yard..  The
> > wormshaft/ballnut assembly alone is a couple hundred bucks..   I've seen
> > boxes complete go between 250 and 450.
> > The issue is with the sector shaft.  If the shaft seal diamaters are
>worn..
> > and they usually are.. due to the leaky seal... then you replace them..
>that
> > gets spendy real fast.  It doesn't take too much wear to still have an 
>oil
> > leak after a rebuild.. that's why the cornhead grease works so good.  
>it's
> > actually designed for gearboxes, and is made to flow back into the sump
>and
> > is very sticky.
> >
> > Again.. it's not an easy to get to deal as with a cub, wher ethe box is
> > setting out to the right of the tractor.
> >
> > >my Old Sun-Master rotary mower took 1 day to get them at Napa. Now  I
>don't
> > >have any leaks so I won't be worrying about the thing going dry and
>wiping
> > >out
> > >an expensive gear box.
> >
> > We've found that grease is very acceptable.  Many of us have N's with
>grease
> > filled boxes that are going on decades old... that's not too bad for an
> > otherwise worn out part.
> >
> > >Like I keep saying, short cuts in  mechanical work can only get you in
> > >trouble later on.
> >
> > Later on..Yep.. like 10 or 20 or 30 years...  I'll take those numbers...
> > Considering that the grease costs about 6 bucks, and gets you years to
> > decades down the road in about 20 minutes.  As with anything.. it's a
> > cost/benefit.  you have to run the numbers.
> > You have to take into consideration use and condition of the tractor.  
>If
> > it's the machine that you drive a couple times a year to do this or that
> > around the hunting camp.. it's hard to justify 200-500$ in parts, and a
> > couple full days labor, and a few specialized tools, or some machine 
>work
> > costs to get it to a point that 6$ and 20 minutes of grease will.  Yes..
> > it's a pay me now.. or pay me later... but inthis case.. the pay me 
>later
>is
> > no more expensive than the pay me now price.  Whereas in general.. pay 
>me
> > now/later problems get more expensive as time goes on.  Once your 
>steering
> > box parts are worn enough to leak.. especially the early ones.. it's
>pretty
> > much a swap out or 100% new parts... so the pay me later issue is moot..
> > costs the same now or later.. and 6$ of grease can make later years and
> > years away without any other detriment to the system.
> >
> > Soundguy
> >
> >
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