[AT] Floats ( 40)

[Doug Tallman]

>When fixing a copper float on a carburetor or a 6" float from a float cage
steam vessel.
>You need to drill a very small pin hole away from your repair in the
copper. When you
>solder the half's together or repair a leak. The pressure inside during
the heating
>process pushes the air out. As it cools down the float will collapse. When
the repair is
>completed and the solder looks quite smooth and when the float at room
temperature clean
>the pin hold and solder this quickly, so you don't build up pressure
inside again.
>
>> -----Original Message-----
A lot of the floats have this little hole in them from the factory. I've
revamped some JD-B floats for other applications. they have the hole on the
top edge. I never thought about it being a pressure relief, I use it for a
pressure test. I unsolder the hole and use a small hand pump with a needle
on the end like you use to pump up balls. It doesn't seal tight enough to
blow up the float but it works good for finding pinholes or cracks. Of
course, you can't go crazy on the plunger. Just hold the float under water
with the hole above the water, give it a slow easy stroke, and watch for
bubbles. It's quicker than trying to hold the float under water and wait to
see if it leaks. The factory hole is easy to reseal since it's already
tinned.


                                                      
           Doug Tallman                 
           dtallman at accnorwalk.com                 
           VGTCOA Ohio Regional Director  
               Greenwich, OH USA