[AT] rear 3pt counterweight

[Dean VP]

Chris:

Very creative. Good work. I owned a Ford 860 with front loader for a few
months and I rapidly learned the value of a rear weight on that tractor. The
steering on that sucker was terrible w/o a rear weight. Not being as
creative as you are, I just hung a 50" JD Roto-Tiller on the three point and
that really helped. I suspect the tiller weighed at least 600 lbs too. Made
a big difference. 

However, I came to a point where the 860 just didn't fit my needs so I sold
it. Other than the steering issue, a darn nice little tractor. Purred like a
kitten after I did a little work on it. I think the thing that finally
caused me to sell it was I had a lot of difficulty using the brakes and
clutch pedals on it. I have long legs, even for a 6' 3" person and at my
advanced age, I had trouble getting my feet on the pedals at times. If I had
kept the tractor I was going to make a bracket to slide the seat further
back. Actually, it was a little dangerous at times. 

Dean A. Van Peursem
Snohomish, WA 98290

I'm a walking storeroom of facts..... I've just lost the key to the
storeroom door 


www.deerelegacy.com

http://members.cox.net/classicweb/email.htm



-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Chris Britton
Sent: Saturday, February 19, 2005 9:15 PM
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
Subject: [AT] rear 3pt counterweight

http://www.tractorshed.com/gallery/iphotos/i2442.jpg

I made a rear counterweight to make steering my ford 660 with 1 arm loader a
bit easier. I figure it comes out to right at 600# plus I have a couple 50#
suitcase weights to throw on top of it.

I tried it out today and it made the steering much much easier... I should
have made this the first day I got the tractor.

This was my first try so I made it cheap and idiot proof. I used about a 4
bushel feed tub that had come with cattle 'protien lick' and a surplus
drawbar, and a couple long carriage bolts, and a ford stabilizer bar. I
bolted the drawbar to the bottom of the empty bucket with some long carriage
bolts, leaving about 5" of carriage bolt up in the bucket. This way, if I
ditch the weight I can just pull a few nuts and get my drawbar back. The
stabilizer bar was cut in half and spaced to hold a toplink,

I have 2 wood blocks this sets on for when removing it from the tractor, as
in it's current position, the weight can not be lowered all the way to the
ground. Total cost for the 6 bags of cement, bolts and stabilizer bar was
35$. Tub was leftover from the feed suppliment.. and drawbar was an old one
I had.

Soundguy



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