[AJD] Was Working on D - ouch Now She Runs Again
Gary Epps
garyepps at fidnet.com
Thu Feb 17 20:01:35 PST 2005
Steve,
I am afraid that the advice I might give you about replacing a camshaft
in John Deere D would be worth even less than what you would pay for
such advice. I didn't have to do any work on nor replace either the
camshaft or the crandshaft. Any needed work was done a maybe ten years
ago when the engine was rebuilt.
I bought the D after it had been restored, after it had been parked for
ten years outdoors under a tarp with, a can over the exhaust. At one
point or another, the tarp had torn or blown off the exhaust area with
the can no longer on the exhaust pipe. I bought the tractor with a
stuck engine. While I didn't mike the crandshaft journals they showed
no wear, and the rods fit well. The rings are in good condition as
well. All I really had to do to it was repair the head and resurface it
and put it back together. I haven't even changed the spark plugs yet!:)
I hope I haven't given the impression that I restored this tractor, all
I did was get it to run again after 8-10 years.
As to your 59 year old camshaft, that doesn't mean it has been running
under load for 59 years. I guess that unless I commit to a frame-up
restoration using new parts, I wouldn't fix what isn't broke. You could
take it all apart and find out that the owner before the one you bought
it from had replaced everything in the engine with new. So as my dad
used to tell me "Don't borrow trouble."
I know what you mean about the IT manuals, for me they leave a bit to be
desired. I prefer lots of pictures. Even better is having an
experienced person looking over my shoulder giving advice when needed.
Good Luck on your D
Gary
Steve Treimer wrote:
> Gary,
> Right on! Good job, you're giving me inspiration.
> Speaking of which, how big of a job is it to change the camshaft?
> Thinking about putting in a reground one. No good reason too, but hey,
> why wouldn't a 59 year old cam need it's lobes refaced?
> For that matter, pulling the crank? My crank doesn't really so any
> movement, and I really fear bearing replacement and crank grinding will
> be a job and an enormous expense at the rate I'm going. But, like Lou,
> I'd really like to tear it down one and only one time.
> Yeah, I know, read the I&T, but it's sooooo much better to hear it from
> someone who's done it!
> Steve
>
> --- Gary Epps <garyepps at fidnet.com> wrote:
>
>
>>The subject line says it all. She runs again! I had to pull her to
>>get
>>her started, she popped and hissed at me a couple of times before I
>>decided to quit fooling around and get serious about getting her
>>started. She fired, but it was necessary to pull her a few feet
>>further
>>before she ran well on her own.
>>
>>With my wife driving(who didn't want to be) the ford 1910 in four
>>wheel
>>drive we headed up the driveway to the top of the hill. I had told
>>her
>>that we could let it coast down to try to start it, hey you'll tell
>>anything to get it started won't you? We looked up at the top of the
>>
>>hill and here came our neighbor to see "what we were doing today."
>>
>>Needless to say she gave her place to Ken and off we went and in just
>>a
>>few feet she started. She ran pretty well, but going up the hill she
>>
>>began to run unevenly as we got up to the hayfield, so I turned her
>>aroung and headed back down hill, not wanting to run out of gas. I
>>had
>>put very little gas it her to see if she would start, had to save
>>some
>>for the other two cylinder JD , the Gator. After I shut her down I
>>measured the gas in the tank and was able to wet about a quarter inch
>>of
>>the stick I use as a gas gauge. No wonder she didn't want to go
>>further
>>up the hill.
>>
>>I need to move some dirt tomorrow,but when I get a chance I will get
>>the
>> hood and shutters back on her and take a picture and see if I can
>>put
>>it someplace where it can be seen. Life is good!
>>
>>How in the world do you adjust the valve lash on a D? My hands
>>aren't
>>large, but they sure don't fit in through the rocker arm inspection
>>opening. I can get to the adjustment nut and stud, but how do you
>>get
>>feeler gauge between the valve stem and rocker arm face? I didn't
>>try
>>doing it laying on my back on the ground, but that might work... Is
>>this the way it's done, or am I missing a trick here?
>>
>>Guys, thanks for all the advice in helping me get the old girl
>>running.
>> Sure feels good.
>>
>>Gary
>>
>>Steve Treimer wrote:
>>
>>>Gary,
>>>That's very impressive, congratulations, Gary. Wish I had your
>>>luck/options/experience over here. Please let us know when you
>>
>>have it
>>
>>>up and running, take pictures if possible!
>>>Steve
>>>
>>>--- Gary Epps <garyepps at fidnet.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>I picked up the D head Friday afternoon. Luckily the crack missed
>>>>the
>>>>valve seat depressions. The crack turned out to be a little longer
>>>>than
>>>>we thought. Resurfacing was a little more also as he had to take
>>>>.020
>>>>off. No wonder I was getting water in the cylinders! My valves
>>
>>and
>>
>>>>springs are in good shape, I'll clean the valves and seats with a
>>>>little
>>>>lapping compound and I think be in good shape. The water passages
>>>>visible in the head are now nice and clean as well.
>>>>
>>>>The charge for the magnefluxing, pins, stitching/pinning and
>>>>resurfacing
>>>>was $135.31. I left as a happy camper. The proof will be in how
>>
>>it
>>
>>>>runs after I get back together.
>>>>
>>>>Gary
>>>>
>>>>Frank wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Gary:
>>>>>tell us what the bill is when you get it.............
>>>>>thanks
>>>>>
>>>>>Frank
>>>>>gremaux at tein.net
>>>>>Central Montana
>>>>>http://www.angelfire.com/mt/deeregp/index.html
>>>>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Epps"
>>>>
>>>><garyepps at fidnet.com>
>>>>
>>>>>To: "Antique John Deere mailing list"
>>>>><antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>>>>>Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2005 8:54 PM
>>>>>Subject: Re: [AJD] working on D - ouch
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>Steve, I expect to pick up the head for my 35 D Friday. I am
>>>>
>>>>having a
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>crack about 1 1/2" repaired and the head resurfaced. The valve
>>>>
>>>>seats
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>are good, and the valves are good as well. I will assemble the
>>>>
>>>>head
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>and valves. I expect the bill the be less than $100.00. $60.00
>>>>
>>>>for
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>the crack repair and $30.00 for the resurfacing. The crack will
>>>>
>>>>be
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>stitched.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>These are Ozark prices.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Gary
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Steve Treimer wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>D prices, what would you do?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Head: $520 to clean, check, repair a crack, resurface, new
>>
>>seats,
>>
>>>>grind
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>>valves, reassemble (assumes good valves, springs)
>>>>>>>Block: $350 to clean, check, bore, hone, fit pistons new 0.125"
>>>>>>>pistons.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Where do you stop? When do you part out? Have I lost my mind?
>>>>>>>Owwww, I getting an ulcer.
>>>>>>>Keep me in your prayers.
>>>>>>>Steve Treimer
>>>>>>>Iowa City
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>__________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? The all-new My
>>
>>>>>>>Yahoo! - Get yours free! http://my.yahoo.com
>>>>>>>_______________________________________________
>>>>>>>Antique-johndeere mailing list
>>
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>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>--
>>>>>>In the Ozark Mountains of South Central USA where both life and I
>>>>
>>>>move
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>at a leisurely pace.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>_______________________________________________
>>>>>>Antique-johndeere mailing list
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>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>_______________________________________________
>>>>>Antique-johndeere mailing list
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>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>--
>>>>In the Ozark Mountains of South Central USA where both life and I
>>>>move
>>>>at a leisurely pace.
>>>>
>>>>_______________________________________________
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>>>
>>>
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>>
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In the Ozark Mountains of South Central USA where both life and I move
at a leisurely pace.
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