[AT] unleaded gasoline/"winter gas"???

[Larry D. Goss]

That's probably right, John.  There is a difference in the blend
depending on the temperature.  But I'm surprised that your repairman
didn't also advise you to buy the highest octane rated gas you can find
for use with 2-cycle engines.  If I remember correctly, Echo
specifically advises that so that you get easier starting after the
gasoline has been mixed with oil.

I use 91 gasoline (or 93, when I can find it) year around for 2-cycle
engines and I use it through the winter for all 4-cycle outdoor
equipment as well.  And, I add Stabil all year long.  That way I don't
have to fuss around with draining the tank and/or carburetor for
off-season storage.

I just sent a snowblower home to its owner last week that had been
stored without any preventative measures to the gasoline.  It was a
Sears and I had to disassemble most of the outside of the blower to get
access to the carburetor so I could clean it.  I ended up charging the
owner $40 for a job that 25-cents worth of Stabil would have prevented.
Next spring, I betcha I'll have to "do a number" on his string trimmer,
too.  He doesn't own a chainsaw or that would also be on the list.

Larry

-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of John Wilkens
Sent: Sunday, December 04, 2005 10:55 AM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] unleaded gasoline/"winter gas"???

This gasoline talk raises a question that came up last week...    It
gets 
pretty cold in my neck of the woods and a local chainsaw/lawnmower 
repairman said our gas is "winterized."  He says they put more butane in

the winter gas for more volitility and easier starting.  Never heard 
anything like that!  Is there any truth in it?    John W.




At 01:19 PM 12/03/2005, you wrote:
>Thanks, Gene.
>         That is pretty much what I had been thinking.  I was just
wanting 
> some opinions to hand to by brother.  He had been buying gasoline from
a 
> local supplier that delivered a lead substitute in the gasoline for 
> regular burners.  That supplier sold out and the new owners will no 
> longer supply the fuel with the additive premixed.  Personally, I
always 
> thought that supplier was just pulling the wool over and his customers

> were probably only paying for some red dye.
>
>Ron Cook
>Salix, IA
>
>Gene Dotson wrote:
>>     Ron;
>>     All tractor and automotive engines built since 1972 are
>>designed to run on unleaded fuel. They will likely run longer
>>because of the lack of contaminants from the lead additive in
>>the fuel. The primary need for lead in the older fuels it to
>>bring the octane level high enough to prevent detonation in
>>higher compression engines. Modern fuel are formulated to meet
>>this octane requirement by other means. The primary concern to
>>using unleaded fuels in older engines was erosion and wear to
>>valves and valve seats. Most engines by this time that are in
>>regular use have had the valve seats and valves replaced by
>>special alloy parts, such as Stellite, that resists the heat and
>>wear.
>>     For your tractors I would just add fuel and not give it a
>>second thought.. John Deere has used the Stellite parts since
>>the mid 50's.
>>                     Gene
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Ronald L. Cook" <rlcook at pionet.net>
>>To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
>><at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>>Sent: Friday, December 02, 2005 11:21 AM
>>Subject: [AT] unleaded gasoline
>>
>>: Opinions please.  2510, 3010, and 4020 John Deere gas
>>tractors.  Working
>>: tractors, not parade tractors.  Are they going to hold up on
>>unleaded
>>: gasoline or do they need some lead from time to time?
>>:
>>: Ron Cook
>>: Salix, IA
>>:
>
>_______________________________________________
>AT mailing list
>Remembering Our Friend Cecil Monson 11-4-2005
>http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at


                    In the wide-open spaces of NE Oregon
   


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