[AT] no spark on 601
Jeff Green
jd_green at swbell.net
Tue Aug 16 03:18:06 PDT 2005
Thanks for that trouble shoot
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Jeff
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Britton" <c.britton at worldnet.att.net>
To: <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Monday, August 15, 2005 7:33 AM
Subject: [AT] no spark on 601
> >From: "Jeff Green" <jd_green at swbell.net>
>>Subject: [AT] No spark
>>I'm having a fit solving a real basic problem on my Ford 601. Can't get a
>>spark. Not at the plugs or the points. I know I'm >getting power to the
>>distributor, from getting zapped when I stuck a screwdriver in the points.
>>I've replaced the coil & >condensor. It's a 12 volt system.
>>Any ideas on where to look next?
>
> A ford sidemount ignition circuit is just about as simple as they come for
> troubleshooting.
>
> You have power from the key switch to the primary of the coil, then a wire
> from the coil (other side of primary ) that goes to the points, and thus
> ground. You have a high tension wire from the coil secondary to the
> distribuitor cap.
>
> Best thing to do is follow the volts.. ensure that you have power at the
> switch to primary connection. A test lamp or vom is usefull. Now..
> ensure that the primary is not open.. an ohm meter is usefull for this as
> well.. however a test lamp will also work.
>
> Now, check to see that the points actuall open and close.. both physicall,
> and electrically.
>
> Easy way to do this is to disconnect the wire to the coil hook it to your
> test lamp clip, then touch probe to the low tension wire from the coil to
> the distrib. Spin engine over... lamp should flash off and on if poit s
> are openiong and closing. Alternately an ohm meter could be used to test
> the circuit.
>
> If lamp stays on.. points aren't closing.. if lamp stays off.. points are
> shorted.. though capacitor could also be shorted.
>
> Gap points at .025. Pay attention to the insulating bushing and feed thru
> wire that passes thru the distribuitor body to the points. this insulator
> is notorious for cracking, as well as the copper xfer strip.
>
> A good test is to jumper power right from battery to the coil primary..
> then use a jumper wire fromthe other side of the primary thru the hole in
> the distrib from the (removed) feed-thru insulator, to the points.
>
> That should at least provide spark to the secondary of the coil IF points
> are opening and closing... Remember.. points closed and the coil is
> saturating it's mag field... field colapses and induces a voltage on the
> secondary when the points open..
>
> If you have spark at the secondary but not the plugs.. look at the
> distrib cap, and rotor.. ensure a good fit and no cracks ont he rotor and
> distrib cap.. no contacts that have been hitting each other from worn
> distrb bushings.. and no carbon tracks or cracks int he cap... next thing
> would be to check timing if you have spark at the secondary.. but not at
> the plugs.. ( i.e. it is fireing.. but not when the rotor is lined up
> with the distrib cap contacts.. )
>
> Soundguy
>
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