[AT] no spark on 601

Jeff Green jd_green at swbell.net
Tue Aug 16 03:18:06 PDT 2005


Thanks for that trouble shoot
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Jeff
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Britton" <c.britton at worldnet.att.net>
To: <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Monday, August 15, 2005 7:33 AM
Subject: [AT] no spark on 601


> >From: "Jeff Green" <jd_green at swbell.net>
>>Subject: [AT] No spark
>>I'm having a fit solving a real basic problem on my Ford 601.  Can't get a 
>>spark.  Not at the plugs or the points.  I know I'm >getting power to the 
>>distributor, from getting zapped when I stuck a screwdriver in the points. 
>>I've replaced the coil & >condensor.  It's a 12 volt system.
>>Any ideas on where to look next?
>
> A ford sidemount ignition circuit is just about as simple as they come for 
> troubleshooting.
>
> You have power from the key switch to the primary of the coil, then a wire 
> from the coil (other side of primary ) that goes to the points, and thus 
> ground.  You have a high tension wire from the coil secondary to the 
> distribuitor cap.
>
> Best thing to do is follow the volts.. ensure that you have power at the 
> switch to primary connection.  A test lamp or vom is usefull.  Now.. 
> ensure that the primary is not open.. an ohm meter is usefull for this as 
> well.. however a test lamp will also work.
>
> Now, check to see that the points actuall open and close.. both physicall, 
> and electrically.
>
> Easy way to do this is to disconnect the wire to the coil hook it to your 
> test lamp clip, then touch probe to the low tension wire from the coil to 
> the distrib.  Spin engine over... lamp should flash off and on if poit s 
> are openiong and closing.  Alternately an ohm meter could be used to test 
> the circuit.
>
> If lamp stays on.. points aren't closing.. if lamp stays off.. points are 
> shorted.. though capacitor could also be shorted.
>
> Gap points at .025.  Pay attention to the insulating bushing and feed thru 
> wire that passes thru the distribuitor body to the points.  this insulator 
> is notorious for cracking, as well as the copper xfer strip.
>
> A good test is to jumper power right from battery to the coil primary.. 
> then use a jumper wire fromthe other side of the primary thru the hole in 
> the distrib from the (removed) feed-thru insulator, to the points.
>
> That should at least provide spark to the secondary of the coil IF points 
> are opening and closing... Remember.. points closed and the coil is 
> saturating it's mag field... field colapses and induces a voltage on the 
> secondary when the points open..
>
> If you have spark at the  secondary but not the plugs.. look at the 
> distrib cap, and rotor.. ensure a good fit and no cracks ont he rotor and 
> distrib cap.. no contacts that have been hitting each other from worn 
> distrb bushings.. and no carbon tracks or cracks int he cap... next thing 
> would be to check timing if you have spark at the secondary.. but not at 
> the plugs.. ( i.e.  it is fireing.. but not when the rotor is lined up 
> with the distrib cap contacts.. )
>
> Soundguy
>
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