[Ford-ferguson] TO-20 Hydraulic

Daniel W. Oehmke doehmke at pressenter.com
Wed Sep 29 19:25:12 PDT 2004 

Dick - this sounds like it's quite tricky!!  I know I've bent the stay
bars on two occasions in the past and had to buy new ones the first
time.  2nd time I was a bit quicker on my reaction and was able to pound
out the slight bends.  But with a remote cylinder, hmmmmm, that would
make it challenging.

So if I understand it, the lift arms will remain down until the remote
cylinder is fully extended --- since the stay bars will be enough to
hold the lift arms down.  So I need to be dropping it back down or be at
the "sweet spot" before the lift arm is fully extended.

Of course to do this with the flat draw bar would interfere with the PTO
shaft for the haybine.

I'll have to track down a copy of the article from N-News.  Believe they
had a similar article in the past year or so too.

Thanks,

Dan


-----Original Message-----
From: ford-ferguson-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:ford-ferguson-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of
rdlotze at juno.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2004 6:46 PM
To: ford-ferguson at lists.antique-tractor.com
Subject: Fw: [Ford-ferguson] TO-20 Hydraulic

Dan
I'm pretty sure your TO20 is the same as an 8N Ford - To get pressure to
a remote cylinder you must keep the lift arms tied down so they don't
reach the top. As soon as they get to the top the oil is bypassed. There
is only pressure as long as the lift arms are below the top position and
the line you are tied into is hooked to the same line as the cylinder
for
the arms. The Ferguson loader as I remember has linkage to the rear lift
arms as well as the two booster cylinders - all three work together.
 If you have the original cross draw bar with the diagonal stay bars -
that will work to keep arms down - WARNING this is a real operator
problem - AS SOON AS the remote cylinder is fully extended you will
IMMEDIATELY START TO BEND THOSE STAY BARS until you find that sweet spot
with the control lever where the cylinder stays up and does not go down
-
Just like when you have something hanging on the arms it ether goes up
or
goes down. 

The system I use is to control the remote cylinder with a separate 4 way
spool valve for a double action cylinder. I supply oil to the valve with
the arms held down and when the remote valve is in neutral the oil is
bypassing the relief valve in the 4 way valve back to the transmission
housing - had to drill hole in the side of housing for this. Pump is
pumping some pressure all the time thru the remote valve. With this
system you can raise and lower a remote cylinder any amount with the
remote valve and not worry that it creeping up or down.
This was written up in the "N" Newsletter - Winter 97
Hope this helps
Dick

2 8N Fords 
541 Ford Offset
4000 Ford
6000 Ford

YOU WROTE
I have a hydraulic adapter that bolts to the right side of the main
case/touch control cover of my TO-20.  It's part of the Ferguson manure
loader and essentially provided a splitter to the left and right
hydraulic cylinders for the loader.

The adapter is now installed --- without the loader --- and I tried to
lift a single cyclinder New Holland Haybine but the haybine didn't
budge, though the lift arms on the Ferguson System went up and down
fine.

Is there a setting or adjustment that I need to make somewhere?  Or is
the haybine too heavy for the TO-20 hydraulic system?

Thanks,

Dan Oehmke
Welch, MN

-----Original Message-----
From: ford-ferguson-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:ford-ferguson-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of
Mike Sloane
Sent: Friday, September 24, 2004 3:49 PM
To: Ford-Ferguson mailing list
Subject: Re: [Ford-ferguson] Ford 640

I had another brand of tractor that had a similar problem that drove me 
crazy trying to isolate. It turned out that the PO had manage to drop 
the metal end cap from his gas can spout into the tank. It floated 
around on the bottom, the same color as the inside of the tank and was 
all but impossible to see. I eventually spotted it when the tractor 
quit, and it was lying right on top of the fuel inlet. I fished it out 
with a magnet, and the tractor hasn't missed a beat since. A leaf or 
piece of scale could do the same thing.

The only other common cause of that kind of problem is an overheated 
coil or condenser. If your tractor has been converted to 12 volts but a 
ballast resistor wasn't installed in-line with the wire going to the 
coil from the ignition switch, the higher voltage will (not may) cause 
problems eventually. (Technical name of this is "fried" coil) Next time 
it quits on you, see if you can touch the coil; it should be warm but 
not hot. If it is too hot to put your hand on, that could very well be 
your problem. Before you spend the money for a new coil, make sure that 
the ballast resistor is in place, or better yet buy a 12 volt coil that 
is labeled as having an internal resistor.

Mike

Don Brown wrote:

> 
> My Ford 640 dies without any consistent pattern that I can figure out.

> Sometimes I can run it for a couple of hours before it dies, other
times 
> I'll run it ten minutes and it dies.  I've always gotten it restarted 
> but I've always tinkered with something before I tried to restart it
so  
> I may have masked any clues that would be helpful.  A mechanic friend 
> suggested that the screen on top of the fuel cut off valve might be 
> occluded, restricting the last few gallons of gas,  so I filled the
gas 
> tank but the problem persisted.  I pulled the plugs and they had a
thick 
> coat of carbon, which I scrapped off.  I pulled the coil wire and 
> noticed a whitish coat of oxidation on the inside of the connection.
I 
> know it shouldn't be there but I don't know the cause.  The sediment 
> bowl was clean and gas runs freely from the tank to the bowl.   The 
> motor does not burn oil, it idles good and has normal power.  I will 
> replace the plugs, plug wires,  coil/distributor wire, points and 
> condenser..  The dust cover in the distributor is torn and I'll
replace 
> it but can that cause a problem?  I assume that a distributor problem 
> would be indicated by performance, am I correct?  The 12 volt system
was 
> installed about four years ago and the tractor ran fine until the last

> few weeks.  The most recent repairs were a new head gasket and a
rebuilt 
> radiator.
> Any ideas?
> Don
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Ford-ferguson mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/ford-ferguson
> 

-- 
Mike Sloane
Allamuchy NJ
Email: (mikesloane at verizon.net)
Website: <http://www.geocities.com/mikesloane>
Blog: <www.mikesloane.blogspot.com
Tractor images: <www.fotki.com/mikesloane>
Work: none - retired

Patriotism is supporting your country all the time and the government 
when it deserves it. -Mark Twain, author and humorist (1835-1910)
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