[AJD] Upper Water pipe - electrolysis

Spencer Yost yostsw at atis.net
Mon Oct 25 12:28:23 PDT 2004


I use heavy rubber sheets that I have and bricks to shape a trough to
whatever size I need. 

Spencer Yost
Owner, ATIS
Plow the Net!
http://www.atis.net

*********** REPLY SEPARATOR  ***********

On 10/25/2004 at 10:56 AM Dean VP wrote:

>Bret:
>
>No, I haven't used that technique. I need to get a set up for that and try
>it sometime. This would require a big tank. 
>
>Dean A. Van Peursem
>Snohomish, WA 98290
>
>I'm a walking storeroom of facts..... I've just lost the key to the
>storeroom door 
>
>
>www.deerelegacy.com
>
>http://members.cox.net/classicweb/email.htm
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
>[mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of
>Bret Rochotte
>Sent: Monday, October 25, 2004 10:27 AM
>To: Antique John Deere mailing list
>Subject: RE: [AJD] Upper Water pipe - electrolysis
>
>Hello;
>
>Have you ever used electrolysis for de-rusting?  I suspect that the
>pipes would loosen up and slide out better if you zapped it in an
>electrolysis bath.  There are many good web sites describing the set-up,
>all you need is a good battery charger,  a tank, some laundry soda and a
>piece of scrap.  I use electrolysis all the time to de-rust tools.  Hope
>this helps,
>
>
>Bret
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
>[mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]On Behalf Of
>Dean VP
>Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2004 10:36 PM
>To: 'Antique John Deere mailing list'
>Subject: RE: [AJD] Upper Water pipe on 1953 60??? - Typical antique
>tractorsaga
>
>
>Ken:
>
>I have been trying to get my pipe out of the two castings.  I have
>twisted,
>pulled, rocked them back and forth, turned them and the pipe is still in
>both castings. I think I have made only 1/2" of progress.  I got tired
>and
>worn out and gave up for the day. There is an overabundance of rust in
>this
>cooling system. There probably is a ridge on the other side of the O
>ring
>that I am fighting.
>
>I considered welding the rust through spot but in inspecting the pipe
>more
>thoroughly I detected several other thin spots so this pipe needs to be
>replaced.
>
>I'll tackle it again tomorrow. Nothing ever comes apart easy for me!
>
>Before I tackled the pipe, I removed the hood and gas tank. Only twisted
>off
>one carriage bolt. Not bad. I can see now where the tank is leaking. The
>tank has been soldered in three different places before.  I'll let the
>tank
>set a few days and try to solder up the leaks and then put a tank sealer
>inside it. Hopefully that will be adequate.
>
>The lowest cost replacement tank I have found so far is $75 plus freight
>from the mid west. And don't really know how good it is either. I'll
>first
>take my chances with this one I guess.
>
>Dean A. Van Peursem
>Snohomish, WA 98290
>
>I'm a walking storeroom of facts..... I've just lost the key to the
>storeroom door
>
>
>www.deerelegacy.com
>
>http://members.cox.net/classicweb/email.htm
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
>[mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf
>Of
>Kenneth Jones
>Sent: Thursday, October 21, 2004 6:50 PM
>To: Antique John Deere mailing list
>Subject: Re: [AJD] Upper Water pipe on 1953 60??? - Typical antique
>tractorsaga
>
>Dean,
>
>      I am restoring a '59 -  530 and had to take the upper water pipe
>apart
>in order to clean the castings.  I put one of the castings in a vice and
>worked the pipe back and forth until it came out of the casting.  I then
>repeated the process for the casting on the other end of the pipe.  I
>did
>not use a wrench to twist the pipe out of the castings just my hands.
>Sad
>to say the upper pipe was very thin in the middle so I paid the $57
>dollars
>for a new one since any of the used ones that I found locally were
>really in
>bad shape on the ends.  The "O" rings hold the pipe in the castings with
>the
>friction created by the rings. If you would like, I would measure the ID
>&
>OD of my new pipe if that would help..  I have been told that if I had
>those
>dimensions, I could get a replacement at a drive live shop...Don't know
>it
>that is correct but older wisdom gave me that suggestion..
>
>
>Ken Jones
>
>
>Dean VP <deanvp at att.net> wrote:
>Antique tractors make you pay if you ignore them for awhile. About a
>year
>ago I picked up a 1953 60 that I thought was a parts tractor. As you may
>recall it was stuck but had a bunch of valuable stuff on it. I was able
>to
>break it loose and get it running but the starter was messed up so I had
>to
>pull start it to get it running.
>
>Well it got put in the back of the shed and ignored since then however,
>I
>did take the starter all apart and cleaned it up and the only thing that
>I
>couldn't fix was the starter switch. I got a new one of those and
>finally
>got around to adding that and everything worked great off the tractor.
>So
>yesterday I installed it and it worked flawlessly when I got a good
>battery!
>:-).
>
>In the process I found out I've had two more 12 v batteries go south so
>went
>and picked up a new one today. Installed it and the starter spun the
>tractor
>over very well but it wouldn't start. No spark, points corroded, fixed
>that,
>still wouldn't start. Gas stale, drained gas, put in new. Tried again,
>popped right off and ran nicely. Shut it down quickly because I hadn't
>added
>water yet. Filled the radiator with water and had a water leak I hadn't
>observed before. Oh, I didn't tighten the plug good and tight, no leak
>there
>any more but one next to it. Where is that coming from? Upper water pipe
>has
>a rust through hole, water exiting onto block and head dripping next to
>drain plug. @#$%^&. Oh joy. But the leak isn't bad enough to keep me
>from
>running this for a bit.
>
>Filled radiator and then proceeded to try to start the tractor again.
>Engine
>locks up starter Bendix gear makes terrible sound. Hand turn flywheel
>and
>sure enough a hydraulic lock on the cylinders. Now what do I have a
>cracked
>block or head or something? No water in it all last winter and it didn't
>have this trouble before. Weird! Pulled plugs, sure enough both
>cylinders
>full of gas not water. Haven't had this before either. Removed gas from
>cylinders, pulled carburetor bowl to see if the float and needle was
>shutting off gas properly. It wasn't. Removed float and needle from
>carburetor while carburetor still on tractor. Didn't find anything
>wrong.
>Blew seat clean with air and reassembled the carburetor. Now the float
>and
>needle is working. Must have got some dirt in the needle/seat interface
>when
>I drained the gas tank. Ok, now let's start this sucker again.
>
>Engage starter, terrible noise, Bendix gear having a tough time engaging
>ring gear. A couple tries and it eventually engages and the tractor
>starts
>right up. Gas tank has a leak as well but that I had observed before. So
>with a gas tank leak and a water leak I took it for a short ride outside
>the
>shop and put it back. All is cool.
>
>I need to find out what I did to the starter Bendix gear because the
>ring
>gear doesn't look all that worn. Another project.
>
>Finally now the question?
>
>But I have a question on the upper water pipe section. JD still sells
>them
>for a nice tidy sum of $57 plus two one dollar "O' ring gaskets.
>However, I
>have never done this procedure before. I have read posts on ATIS where
>it
>was mentioned that this pipe can be substituted with a common variety
>piece
>of pipe. What diameter, ID and OD, and what material should the pipe be
>made
>of? How is this pipe held in the two castings? Friction fit? If so how
>do
>you get the pipe out of the two castings to replace the pipe? I would
>appreciate input from anyone who has been down this road before. I guess
>one
>could get a whole assembly from a salvage yard but one never really
>knows
>how good that pipe might be either. Or maybe try to gas weld the hole in
>the pipe if the hole isn't too big and it's not rusted out elsewhere.
>
>When I pull the hood to find the gas leak, I'll try to fix the upper
>water
>pipe at the same time. I may be looking for a replacement gas tank as
>well.
>Anyone have a good one to sell?
>
>One step forward and two steps backward.
>
>Dean A. Van Peursem
>Snohomish, WA 98290
>
>I'm a walking storeroom of facts..... I've just lost the key to the
>storeroom door
>
>
>www.deerelegacy.com
>
>http://members.cox.net/classicweb/email.htm
>
>
>
>
>
>
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