[AJD] Upper Water pipe - electrolysis

Mon Oct 25 10:56:07 PDT 2004

Bret:

No, I haven't used that technique. I need to get a set up for that and try
it sometime. This would require a big tank. 

Dean A. Van Peursem
Snohomish, WA 98290

I'm a walking storeroom of facts..... I've just lost the key to the
storeroom door 

www.deerelegacy.com

http://members.cox.net/classicweb/email.htm

-----Original Message-----
From: antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of
Bret Rochotte
Sent: Monday, October 25, 2004 10:27 AM
To: Antique John Deere mailing list
Subject: RE: [AJD] Upper Water pipe - electrolysis

Hello;

Have you ever used electrolysis for de-rusting?  I suspect that the
pipes would loosen up and slide out better if you zapped it in an
electrolysis bath.  There are many good web sites describing the set-up,
all you need is a good battery charger,  a tank, some laundry soda and a
piece of scrap.  I use electrolysis all the time to de-rust tools.  Hope
this helps,

Bret

-----Original Message-----
From: antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]On Behalf Of
Dean VP
Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2004 10:36 PM
To: 'Antique John Deere mailing list'
Subject: RE: [AJD] Upper Water pipe on 1953 60??? - Typical antique
tractorsaga

Ken:

I have been trying to get my pipe out of the two castings.  I have
twisted,
pulled, rocked them back and forth, turned them and the pipe is still in
both castings. I think I have made only 1/2" of progress.  I got tired
and
worn out and gave up for the day. There is an overabundance of rust in
this
cooling system. There probably is a ridge on the other side of the O
ring
that I am fighting.

I considered welding the rust through spot but in inspecting the pipe
more
thoroughly I detected several other thin spots so this pipe needs to be
replaced.

I'll tackle it again tomorrow. Nothing ever comes apart easy for me!

Before I tackled the pipe, I removed the hood and gas tank. Only twisted
off
one carriage bolt. Not bad. I can see now where the tank is leaking. The
tank has been soldered in three different places before.  I'll let the
tank
set a few days and try to solder up the leaks and then put a tank sealer
inside it. Hopefully that will be adequate.

The lowest cost replacement tank I have found so far is $75 plus freight
from the mid west. And don't really know how good it is either. I'll
first
take my chances with this one I guess.

Dean A. Van Peursem
Snohomish, WA 98290

I'm a walking storeroom of facts..... I've just lost the key to the
storeroom door

www.deerelegacy.com

http://members.cox.net/classicweb/email.htm

-----Original Message-----
From: antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf
Of
Kenneth Jones
Sent: Thursday, October 21, 2004 6:50 PM
To: Antique John Deere mailing list
Subject: Re: [AJD] Upper Water pipe on 1953 60??? - Typical antique
tractorsaga

Dean,

      I am restoring a '59 -  530 and had to take the upper water pipe
apart
in order to clean the castings.  I put one of the castings in a vice and
worked the pipe back and forth until it came out of the casting.  I then
repeated the process for the casting on the other end of the pipe.  I
did
not use a wrench to twist the pipe out of the castings just my hands.
Sad
to say the upper pipe was very thin in the middle so I paid the $57
dollars
for a new one since any of the used ones that I found locally were
really in
bad shape on the ends.  The "O" rings hold the pipe in the castings with
the
friction created by the rings. If you would like, I would measure the ID
&
OD of my new pipe if that would help..  I have been told that if I had
those
dimensions, I could get a replacement at a drive live shop...Don't know
it
that is correct but older wisdom gave me that suggestion..

Ken Jones

Dean VP <deanvp at att.net> wrote:
Antique tractors make you pay if you ignore them for awhile. About a
year
ago I picked up a 1953 60 that I thought was a parts tractor. As you may
recall it was stuck but had a bunch of valuable stuff on it. I was able
to
break it loose and get it running but the starter was messed up so I had
to
pull start it to get it running.

Well it got put in the back of the shed and ignored since then however,
I
did take the starter all apart and cleaned it up and the only thing that
I
couldn't fix was the starter switch. I got a new one of those and
finally
got around to adding that and everything worked great off the tractor.
So
yesterday I installed it and it worked flawlessly when I got a good
battery!
:-).

In the process I found out I've had two more 12 v batteries go south so
went
and picked up a new one today. Installed it and the starter spun the
tractor
over very well but it wouldn't start. No spark, points corroded, fixed
that,
still wouldn't start. Gas stale, drained gas, put in new. Tried again,
popped right off and ran nicely. Shut it down quickly because I hadn't
added
water yet. Filled the radiator with water and had a water leak I hadn't
observed before. Oh, I didn't tighten the plug good and tight, no leak
there
any more but one next to it. Where is that coming from? Upper water pipe
has
a rust through hole, water exiting onto block and head dripping next to
drain plug. @#$%^&. Oh joy. But the leak isn't bad enough to keep me
from
running this for a bit.

Filled radiator and then proceeded to try to start the tractor again.
Engine
locks up starter Bendix gear makes terrible sound. Hand turn flywheel
and
sure enough a hydraulic lock on the cylinders. Now what do I have a
cracked
block or head or something? No water in it all last winter and it didn't
have this trouble before. Weird! Pulled plugs, sure enough both
cylinders
full of gas not water. Haven't had this before either. Removed gas from
cylinders, pulled carburetor bowl to see if the float and needle was
shutting off gas properly. It wasn't. Removed float and needle from
carburetor while carburetor still on tractor. Didn't find anything
wrong.
Blew seat clean with air and reassembled the carburetor. Now the float
and
needle is working. Must have got some dirt in the needle/seat interface
when
I drained the gas tank. Ok, now let's start this sucker again.

Engage starter, terrible noise, Bendix gear having a tough time engaging
ring gear. A couple tries and it eventually engages and the tractor
starts
right up. Gas tank has a leak as well but that I had observed before. So
with a gas tank leak and a water leak I took it for a short ride outside
the
shop and put it back. All is cool.

I need to find out what I did to the starter Bendix gear because the
ring
gear doesn't look all that worn. Another project.

Finally now the question?

But I have a question on the upper water pipe section. JD still sells
them
for a nice tidy sum of $57 plus two one dollar "O' ring gaskets.
However, I
have never done this procedure before. I have read posts on ATIS where
it
was mentioned that this pipe can be substituted with a common variety
piece
of pipe. What diameter, ID and OD, and what material should the pipe be
made
of? How is this pipe held in the two castings? Friction fit? If so how
do
you get the pipe out of the two castings to replace the pipe? I would
appreciate input from anyone who has been down this road before. I guess
one
could get a whole assembly from a salvage yard but one never really
knows
how good that pipe might be either. Or maybe try to gas weld the hole in
the pipe if the hole isn't too big and it's not rusted out elsewhere.

When I pull the hood to find the gas leak, I'll try to fix the upper
water
pipe at the same time. I may be looking for a replacement gas tank as
well.
Anyone have a good one to sell?

One step forward and two steps backward.

Dean A. Van Peursem
Snohomish, WA 98290

I'm a walking storeroom of facts..... I've just lost the key to the
storeroom door

www.deerelegacy.com

http://members.cox.net/classicweb/email.htm

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