[AT] Allis Chalmers Model G decals

Phil Vorwerk pvorwerk at newulmtel.net
Tue Mar 9 07:17:11 PST 2004


Yeah, using a wetting agent is probably a good idea for someone who isn't
used to putting down vinyl.  I would still tape it into place and use the
solution very sparingly, rather than trying to "float" the letters into
place.  When you have a lot of vehicles to letter and you can get good
results without a wetting agent you tend to stay away from it in a
commercial setting because you can save a significant amount of time.

Phil V
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tim Bivens" <bivenshill at yahoo.com>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 6:54 PM
Subject: Re: [AT] Allis Chalmers Model G decals


> Phil,
> Like I said I wasn't wanting to contradict you. I just
> know what I know from my personal experience and have
> helped put vinyl on a lot of different surfaces such
> as signs, police cars, tractors etc. I just know what
> works and I would never suggest to anyone like Cecil
> that has never worked with vinyl to try and put it on
> dry. I also hadn't thought about taking the vehicle
> outside in below freezing temperatures (don't usually
> have that problem here and most of the sign work is
> done indoors).I hope he is going to do this in a warm
> shop or wait until summer. The reason the couple
> messed up their paint was just simply because they
> didn't know what they were doing. They may have even
> tried to scrape it off with a razorblade. I really
> can't remember it was 30 years ago. What I do remember
> is that the soapy water worked then and it works now.
> We have even had this subject on the list before and
> someone else told how to do it. Just don't use much
> soap. A couple of drops in a spray bottle of water
> will do it.
>
> Tim Bivens
> Glen Rose, Tex.
>
> --- Phil Vorwerk <pvorwerk at newulmtel.net> wrote:
> > Wetting agents are fine; sign shops in Minnesota do
> > not like to use them if
> > they are not necessary because if you do not work
> > out all of the liquid VERY
> > thoroughly when you take the vehicle outside in
> > below freezing temps the
> > vinyl can "freeze" off of the surface before it can
> > become fully adhered.  I
> > always tell customers that the vinyl is not fully
> > adhered until it has spent
> > a day outside in the hot sun.  Another thing to be
> > careful with is if you
> > use a lot of wetting agent the carrier sheet
> > (Transferite, R Tape, etc.)
> > will start to let go of the vinyl and you will end
> > up with loose letters.  I
> > don't like to use wetting agents, and I am very
> > particular about making sure
> > that logos are placed exactly, and without bubbles.
> > Using a wetting agent
> > on every installation is far from a standard,
> > accepted practice in the sign
> > industry.
> >
> > If you know of someone that pulled off some vinyl
> > and messed up their paint
> > job then they had an issue with their paint.  We
> > regularly remove old vinyl
> > lettering and install new when company's change
> > names, logos, etc and need
> > to make changes to their vehicles.  It is one of
> > many reasons why the sign
> > industry went away from painted lettering and to
> > vinyl instead - when you
> > sell the vehicle you can remove the lettering
> > without needing to have the
> > vehicle repainted.
> >
> > There. Probably more than you wanted to know about
> > vinyl lettering, but I've
> > done more than watch someone install
> > lettering........
> >
> > Phil Vorwerk
> > Still sunny, cool Courtland.
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Tim Bivens" <bivenshill at yahoo.com>
> > To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
> > <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 4:24 PM
> > Subject: Re: [AT] Allis Chalmers Model G decals
> >
> >
> > > Cecil,
> > > Whoa! Don't put those vinyl decals on yet. I am
> > not
> > > trying to contradict anything that Phil said and I
> > do
> > > not own a sign shop but I do know quite a bit
> > about
> > > vinyl lettering. I have been in charge of the
> > > marketing for my company for the past six years
> > and
> > > have had a lot of vinyl signs made. We spent
> > > $40,000.00 in signs last year. A very good friend
> > of
> > > mine works at the sign company we use. I have
> > watched
> > > him and helped him work on a lot of signs. He is a
> > > very meticulous and professional craftsman and has
> > > done vinyl for many years. Most of the work he
> > does is
> > > on commercial and government vehicles. He NEVER
> > puts
> > > vinyl on dry. What he does is that he has a spray
> > > bottle of water with just a tiny bit of
> > dishwashing
> > > detergent in it. He sprays the surface that he is
> > > putting the vinyl on and also the sticky side of
> > the
> > > vinyl. Then he puts it on and he can slide the
> > vinyl
> > > around where he wants it. Then when it is placed
> > where
> > > he wants it he uses a squeegee made specifically
> > for
> > > this purpose and squeegees the water and bubbles
> > out.
> > > I know it may sound strange but this works and is
> > the
> > > accepted way to put vinyl on in the sign industry.
> > The
> > > first time I ever heard of this was back in the
> > > 1970's. A friend of mines parents had some vinyl
> > signs
> > > made for their fleet of trucks. They were going to
> > > save a little money and put them on theirselves.
> > Well
> > > the first one they put on was all wrinkled up and
> > they
> > > tried to pull it off and it messed up their paint
> > job.
> > > They were pretty upset and they called the company
> > > that had made their signs and they told them
> > exactly
> > > what I told you above. They tried this on the rest
> > of
> > > their signs and they had no more trouble. I have
> > also
> > > had some experience with Mylar and I will never
> > buy
> > > any more Mylar decals. Die-cut vinyl is the only
> > way
> > > to go.
> > > Tim Bivens
> > > Glen Rose, Tex.
> > >
> > > --- Phil Vorwerk <pvorwerk at newulmtel.net> wrote:
> > > > Cecil -
> > > >
> > > > You're right about the vinyl cut lettering not
> > being
> > > > movable once it's down,
> > > > but it isn't really much of a problem.  With
> > vinyl
> > > > lettering the trick is to
> > > > first tape the lettering in the right location
> > > > before removing the backing.
> > > > Tape it along the top edge so that you can
> > "hinge"
> > > > it on the tape.  After
> > > > getting it placed you can hinge it up, remove
> > the
> > > > backing, and work it down
> > > > from top to bottom to help avoid bubbles.  If
> > the
> > > > logo is separate letters
> > > > and longer than 6" inches you can make it easier
> > by
> > > > taping it in place, then
> > > > separate the lettering into smaller sections and
> > > > hinge them down
> > > > individually.  If you are going onto an
> > irregular
> > > > surface you can use a
> > > > wetting agent to give you the ability to work
> > the
> > > > vinyl into any dips.  A
> > > > heat gun can help to get the lettering to
> > conform
> > > > around things that stick
> > > > above the surface, such as rivets.  I hope I
> > > > explained this in an
> > > > understandable manner  (I've owned a sign shop
> > for
> > > > about 15 years, so I've
> > > > done a little bit of vinyl work......)
> > > >
> > > > Phil Vorwerk
> > > > Sunny, cool Courtland, MN
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > > From: "Cecil E Monson" <cmonson at hvc.rr.com>
> > > > To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
> > > > <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > > > Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 10:14 AM
> > > > Subject: [AT] Allis Chalmers Model G decals
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > I have a question as to which decals those of
> > you
> > > > with AC tractors
> > > > > would put on a Model G being newly painted.
> > What
> > > > raised the question is
> > > > > the fact that Maple Hunter offers decals two
> > ways
> > > > - vinyl cut or mylar.
> > > > > Price is not a part of the question, BTW,
> > although
> > > > vinyl cuts are more
> > > > > expensive.
> > > > >
> > > > > I just ordered and received a set of vinyl cut
> > > > decals for my 52 Cub
> > > > > and they look just fine. I have never seen the
> > > > mylar decals so have no
> > > > idea
> > > > > which is better or if that is the case.
> > > > >
> > > > > The way it looks to me is that the big
> > difference
> > > > is the mylar decals
> > > > > go on wet and can be moved after being put on
> > if
> > > > not exactly where they
> > > > belong.
> > > > > I think the vinyl cut are there to stay and
> > you
> > > > have one shot at getting
> >
> === message truncated ===
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Search - Find what you're looking for faster
> http://search.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
>





More information about the AT mailing list