[AT] Misc - including a tractor question at the end!

[Steve W.]

A/B/C/D  Sound OK to me.

E-  First can the cam/valves be obtained as replacement parts? If yes
then try this.
Heat the guides as much as possible and spray them with liquid wrench or
another thin lubricant. Tap on the center of the face of the valve with
a punch. Then use a chisel on the face to see if you can get the valve
to turn in the guide. To make this easier use an air hammer, much easier
and faster.

Steve Williams
Near Cooperstown NY


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Spencer Yost" <Spencer.Yost at piedmontsystems.com>
To: <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 12:16 PM
Subject: [AT] Misc - including a tractor question at the end!


> A - Image Depot is complete - Every photo that Brice had at the old
depot has been uploaded to the new one.
>
> B - Serial Number Page - I have called the author of that page on
several occasions over the past year and despite assurances he would get
me the original pages; it appears that he is never going to get around
to it.     I am going to start my own serial number page and would like
your help.   Go ahead and get your reference material together and be
waiting for my announcement of the new serial number page.
>
> C - Ditto for the show page:  No help/little has come forward from the
5 members that volunteered over the last 3 years.   None keyed in more
than a few shows before quitting.    I have decided to come up with a
system that will allow all users key in shows.   That will be turned on
in a day or two.   Get your show flyers ready.
>
> D - The SEL list is moving to the new software today - I know several
of you are subscribed to that list as well and wanted to remind you.
>
> E - Rusted Valves:    Anyone have any great tricks for removing rusted
valves from a flat head engine?      Things I have thought about/tried:
>
> 1 - This is a continental engine that has press fit valve guides, so
removing the entire valve assembly by removing a clip, like a Ford, is
not possible.
>
> 2 - Removing the cam so they can be driven out from below is not
possible because enough valves are stuck you can spin the cam in enough
combinations to bypass all the tappets.
>
> 3 - Tappets are small and the tappets/valves assembly cannot be driven
out from below with the cam in place because the cam lobes cover them up
pretty completely.
>
> 4 Steel wedges.  I have never had valves that wouldn't budge after
driving a steel wedge between the end of the valve and the tappet.
Broke the wedge on one try and broke the adjustable bolt in the tappet
on the next try (-;
>
> I was hoping someone knew of something that might somehow bite into
the valve from above (horrors of sodium filled valves inserted here) and
pull from above.   I was able to remove all keepers though.
>
> Take care,
>
>
> Spencer
>
>
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