[AT] Misc - including a tractor question at the end!

charlie hill chill8 at cox.net
Wed Mar 10 09:51:14 PST 2004


Spencer I would probably try putting the entire head in a vat of penetrating
oil/diesel fuel concoction and letting it soak for a few days.  Then try
heat and what ever force you can apply.   Don't know if that will work or
not.

Good luck.

Charlie
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Spencer Yost" <Spencer.Yost at piedmontsystems.com>
To: <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 12:16 PM
Subject: [AT] Misc - including a tractor question at the end!


> A - Image Depot is complete - Every photo that Brice had at the old depot
has been uploaded to the new one.
>
> B - Serial Number Page - I have called the author of that page on several
occasions over the past year and despite assurances he would get me the
original pages; it appears that he is never going to get around to it.     I
am going to start my own serial number page and would like your help.   Go
ahead and get your reference material together and be waiting for my
announcement of the new serial number page.
>
> C - Ditto for the show page:  No help/little has come forward from the 5
members that volunteered over the last 3 years.   None keyed in more than a
few shows before quitting.    I have decided to come up with a system that
will allow all users key in shows.   That will be turned on in a day or two.
Get your show flyers ready.
>
> D - The SEL list is moving to the new software today - I know several of
you are subscribed to that list as well and wanted to remind you.
>
> E - Rusted Valves:    Anyone have any great tricks for removing rusted
valves from a flat head engine?      Things I have thought about/tried:
>
> 1 - This is a continental engine that has press fit valve guides, so
removing the entire valve assembly by removing a clip, like a Ford, is not
possible.
>
> 2 - Removing the cam so they can be driven out from below is not possible
because enough valves are stuck you can spin the cam in enough combinations
to bypass all the tappets.
>
> 3 - Tappets are small and the tappets/valves assembly cannot be driven out
from below with the cam in place because the cam lobes cover them up pretty
completely.
>
> 4 Steel wedges.  I have never had valves that wouldn't budge after driving
a steel wedge between the end of the valve and the tappet.   Broke the wedge
on one try and broke the adjustable bolt in the tappet on the next try (-;
>
> I was hoping someone knew of something that might somehow bite into the
valve from above (horrors of sodium filled valves inserted here) and pull
from above.   I was able to remove all keepers though.
>
> Take care,
>
>
> Spencer
>
>
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