Using tractor driven tillers (was Re:[AT]AllisChalmersB-1lawn tractor

[Cecil E Monson]

> Haha,  I can't help but laugh Gil as I have never had a shear pin to work
> when it should (not saying that it won't work for you).  The first time I
> ever dealt with a shear pin was in an AC bush hog my dad bought with his
> D-10 in 1959. 


	My experience with shear pins is that they work best on slow
turning machinery. I've broken lots of them on my post hole digger which
I run as slow as the tractor will idle. Seems like as soon as the hole
gets 16" - 18" deep almost any rock will bind it up and stop it and the
pin breaks like butter. I don't buy shear pins at all and prefer to use
1/4" or 5/16" cap screws in it. I just put a handful in the tractor tool
box and don't worry about it.
	
	My JD 32" snowblower will pop shear pins too - it has them on
the "scooper" tines in case rocks get between them and the frame.

	As to the bush hog, it has a slip clutch but I've never seen
that it has slipped at all so don't know if it works or not. I'd hate
to depend on it stopping those heavy blades before it did any damage.
I don't think it will happen with all the energy there.

	This Kubota tiller I just picked up does not have a slip clutch
or shear pins. What it has is a humpback top to allow room for rocks to
up and over and out. I sure hope it works on the football sized rocks I
have to contend with here.

Cecil
-- 
The nicest thing about telling the truth is you never have to wonder
what you said.

Cecil E Monson
Lucille Hand-Monson
Mountainville, New York   Just a little east of the North Pole

Allis Chalmers tractors and equipment

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