Using tractor driven tillers (was Re:[AT]AllisChalmersB-1lawn tractor

[charlie hill]

Haha,  I can't help but laugh Gil as I have never had a shear pin to work
when it should (not saying that it won't work for you).  The first time I
ever dealt with a shear pin was in an AC bush hog my dad bought with his
D-10 in 1959.  It was bronze or some sort of yellow allow.  If I remember
right they cost $13 each way back then.   I could hit a stump or a big clump
of dirt/grass so hard that it would cut the engine off just as if you turned
off the switch but the shear pin wouldn't break.  However,  I could be
mowing along in a pasture and the thing would break and fall out.

In all the years since I have always had that same experience with shear
pins/bolts.  I used every grade and type I could find but all with the same
results.  I finally started using grade 8 bolts because it takes them longer
to wear out and break than anything else.  They aren't going to shear when
you want them to so why not?

I hope you have better luck!

Charlie
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gilbert Schwartz" <gschwartz1 at mchsi.com>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2004 1:46 PM
Subject: Re: Using tractor driven tillers (was Re:[AT]AllisChalmersB-1lawn
tractor


> Charlie; The worst part is that it looks like it should work just fine but
> it won't slip in any way. We even tried to take it apart enough to make it
> slip and finally gave up on it. Went the old shear pin route. Gil
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "charlie hill" <chill8 at cox.net>
> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2004 6:52 AM
> Subject: Re: Using tractor driven tillers (was Re:
[AT]AllisChalmersB-1lawn
> tractor
>
>
> > Gil,  I added one to my Woods brush cutter recently after I twisted the
> > original PTO shaft up like a soda straw.  It took me a while to get it
> > adjust right but I like it.  I'm glad you mentioned the rust problem.  I
> > hadn't thought of that.  I think I'll make a habit of putting a little
> > penetrating oil on mine.
> >
> > Charlie
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Gilbert Schwartz" <gschwartz1 at mchsi.com>
> > To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2004 8:14 PM
> > Subject: Re: Using tractor driven tillers (was Re: [AT]
> AllisChalmersB-1lawn
> > tractor
> >
> >
> > > Older model Ford brush cutters use that friction plate clutch. The
thing
> > > works pretty good but it rusts to a solid mass if the cutter sits
> outside
> > > much. At that point the gearbox input shaft twists off between that
> "used
> > to
> > > be a clutch" and the gearbox. Usually so close to the gearbox it
> requires
> > a
> > > new input shaft. Don't ask how I know. Gil
> > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > From: "charlie hill" <chill8 at cox.net>
> > > To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
> > <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2004 3:52 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Using tractor driven tillers (was Re: [AT] Allis
> > > ChalmersB-1lawn tractor
> > >
> > >
> > > > Cecil,  remember that your D-12 III has (or probably has) a wet
clutch
> > in
> > > > the PTO housing.  The clutch plates are mounted in an aluminum hub.
> Ask
> > > me
> > > > how I know.
> > > >
> > > > I think part of the problem with roto-tillers is that people don't
use
> > > them
> > > > correctly.  They are intended to prepare a seed bed in good soil.
> They
> > > > aren't meant to be scarifiers for digging up rocks, stumps, asphalt
> and
> > > > concrete.
> > > >
> > > > I wonder if there is room to put a friction clutch in front of your
> > > > roto-tiller?  You know, the kind that you see on the drive shaft of
> some
> > > > brush cutters.
> > > >
> > > > Charlie
> > > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > > From: "Cecil E Monson" <cmonson at hvc.rr.com>
> > > > To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
> > > <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > > > Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2004 7:50 AM
> > > > Subject: Re: Using tractor driven tillers (was Re: [AT] Allis
Chalmers
> > > > B-1lawn tractor
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > After reading the posts on using tractor mounted rototillers
> > > > > I'll be sure to use the float position on the hydraulic controls.
> With
> > > > > my D-12 III, I can set the depth also but I don't want rocks
tearing
> > up
> > > > > the PTO drive either so the float is a good idea.
> > > > >
> > > > > Cecil
> > > > > -- 
> > > > > The nicest thing about telling the truth is you never have to
wonder
> > > > > what you said.
> > > > >
> > > > > Cecil E Monson
> > > > > Lucille Hand-Monson
> > > > > Mountainville, New York   Just a little east of the North Pole
> > > > >
> > > > > Allis Chalmers tractors and equipment
> > > > >
> > > > > Free advice
> > > > >
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