Using tractor driven tillers (was Re: [AT] Allis Chalmers B-1lawntractor

[charlie hill]

Cecil,  I had a series III D-10 for a while until I traded it for a D-14.
It had the same PTO set up you have.   A few days before I traded it I was
bush hogging with it.   Just as I finished up I hit something ( the stub of
a cut off 6 inch post) and the PTO appeared to jump out of gear.  I put it
back in and it turned but since I was finished mowing I didn't really check
it out and never even thought about the fact that it might be broken.

I traded the tractor and after a few months stopped by to see the man I
traded it too.  When I walked in his shop he looked at me hard but didn't
say anything.   After a while I asked him about the D-10 and he told me he
had to replace the PTO clutch housing.
I was shocked and immediately understood why he looked at me so hard.  I
told him I had hit something with it but hadn't given it a second thought.
He said that after he tought about it he figured I most not have known it
was broken because when I showed him the tractor it had the bush hog
fastened to it.

He went on to explain that the Series III tractors had that wet clutch with
an aluminum drum and that parts were very hard to find for it.  I asked him
what I owed him and he told me not to worry about it that he had gotten
lucky and found a used part pretty cheap.   He seemed to realize by that
point that I hadn't intentionally taken advantage of him and we had a good
tractor chat before I left.

Charlie


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cecil E Monson" <cmonson at hvc.rr.com>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2004 8:35 PM
Subject: Re: Using tractor driven tillers (was Re: [AT] Allis Chalmers
B-1lawntractor


> > Cecil,  remember that your D-12 III has (or probably has) a wet clutch
in
> > the PTO housing.  The clutch plates are mounted in an aluminum hub.  Ask
me
> > how I know.
> >
> > I think part of the problem with roto-tillers is that people don't use
them
> > correctly.  They are intended to prepare a seed bed in good soil.  They
> > aren't meant to be scarifiers for digging up rocks, stumps, asphalt and
> > concrete.
> >
> > I wonder if there is room to put a friction clutch in front of your
> > roto-tiller?  You know, the kind that you see on the drive shaft of some
> > brush cutters.
> >
> > Charlie
>
>
> I didn't know it was a wet clutch but I sure like the way it
> works. Using the bush hog, you don't have to stop or clutch or anything
> to engage or disengage the bush hog. Works great and a pleasure to use.
>
> The way I am going to use this thing is to eliminate once and
> for all walking behind that TroyBilt rototiller. Tilling by hand lost
> it's charm a few years back and I have been looking for one of these.
> I don't intend to stop my spring plowing and don't mind discing because
> I can sit on the tractor and let it do the work. So my intent is to just
> use this as the final leveling step before planting. Doesn't have to go
> deep and I just want the surface level and easy to mark for planting.
>
> There could be a place to put a friction clutch. The farmer where
> I bought this got home too late tonight to load it on my truck so we made
> arrangements to do it tomorrow afternoon and I don't have it home yet to
> measure. I doubt I would need a friction clutch but by the same token, it
> could very well have one already on it. This appears to be a pretty well
> made tiller.
>
> We shall see.
>
> Cecil
> -- 
> The nicest thing about telling the truth is you never have to wonder
> what you said.
>
> Cecil E Monson
> Lucille Hand-Monson
> Mountainville, New York   Just a little east of the North Pole
>
> Allis Chalmers tractors and equipment
>
> Free advice
>
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