[AT] O.T. Silly #$%& truck

[Robinson]

Hi Robert:

	As I mentioned in the post to Charlie it is a new
complete head not a rebuilt one. I have watched the
valves very closely with it running with out seeing
any problem and they are getting plenty of oil too.
	# 3 seems fine now so I'll do #4 and see what it
does. 	Since it is a 1/2 ton I'm thinking of selling
it along with my 77 GMC to buy a 3/4 ton 4 x 4 but
don't want to sell it until I cure it for sure. I
don't want to stick someone with a hidden problem. I
figured I would get it going, do a little minor body
work on it and paint it. Then I will probably drive it
a few months to watch it.


"farmer"

My most recent list
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Francis Robinson
Central Indiana, USA
robinson at svs.net





>-----Original Message-----
>From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
>[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]
>On Behalf Of Robert Brooks
>Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2004 6:17 PM
>To: Antique tractor email discussion group;
>Antique tractor email
>discussion group
>Subject: Re: [AT] O.T. Silly #$%& truck
>
>
>Farmer;
>
>I would guess that the springs binding from
>either the wrong springs or
>collapsed springs is causing the stud to move.
>
>Or maybe a higher lift cam, it would be hard
>for the lifters to extend too
>far, they have a physical stop with the C
>clip and can not move past it.
>Normal failure mode on a lifter is for it to
>collapse or not pump up, not
>extend too far.
>
>I would look at the valve springs, might be
>a simple as the rebuilder
>putting the wrongs springs on the head when
>it was rebuilt.
>
>I forgot to check the springs on a small
>block pontiac motor once and they
>were binding, and it caused this kind of
>problem.  Of course it got worse
>when the valve stem broke.
>
>
>Bob
>
>
>At 06:38 PM 2/24/04 -0500, charlie hill wrote:
>>How about this Farmer.  Someone changed the
>cam to a higher lift or changed
>>the valve springs to something out of spec.
> The valve springs are bottoming
>>out before the valve opens all the way thus
>putting too much presure on the
>>pivot.
>>
>>Charlie
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Robinson" <robinson at svs.net>
>>To: "'Antique tractor email discussion group'"
>><at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>>Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2004 5:51 PM
>>Subject: [AT] O.T. Silly #$%& truck
>>
>>
>> > I have an 83 Ford 1/2 ton with a 300 CID 6 in it.
>> > Diana's youngest brother had it (bought as an old
>> > truck) and could never get it to run
>right. He had it
>> > to a couple of garages and one convinced
>him that it
>> > needed a new head. It was running "fair"
>then so he
>> > bought a new set of 4 tires for it then
>it suddenly
>> > started running really bad and clanking.
>He walked
>> > away from it and when I found out that
>he was selling
>> > it he was getting ready to sell it to
>some guy for
>> > $200. I told him that I would give him
>$300 for it and
>> > hauled it home (he had $400 in the
>tires).  I pulled
>> > the valve cover and found that one
>rocker arm stud on
>> > the #3 cylinder had sheared the tiny
>roll pin that
>> > helps hold it in the head. Those studs are just
>> > pressed in and have the roll pin
>crosswise through the
>> > boss on the head and the stud. I put it
>back with a
>> > new roll pin and we drove it for a while
>OK. After a
>> > couple of months it let go again but this time it
>> > broke the stud off at the pin hole. I replaced it
>> > again and after a few months it sheared
>the roll pin
>> > again. This time I said to hell with it
>and used a
>> > little nickel rod to weld the stud into
>the block. It
>> > is still holding after some time but it
>still wasn't
>> > running right. You couldn't have asked
>for a better
>> > compression test at cranking speed, all
>6 alike. I
>> > finally decided that there was a problem with the
>> > lifter pumping up too far somehow...???
>I have had
>> > several of these 300's and they have always been
>> > pretty bullet proof before. Being at a
>serious stage
>> > of empty wallet at that time I just
>bought a pair of
>> > lifters for that cylinder and put them
>in. Ran better
>> > but still not right. At least that #3
>cylinder was
>> > firing right but #4 was a bit weak.
>> > As I kept checking I found so many other little
>> > things wrong with it I decided to just
>start "fixing
>> > stuff" until it was running right.   :-)
>  Since I
>> > found a couple of dollars then I was going to go
>> > through it. The spark was kind of
>erratic so I looked
>> > at the distributor. Not a pretty site.
>Lots of side
>> > slop, lots of corrosion and it looked
>like somebody
>> > had been in there "adjusting" stuff with
>a hammer.
>> > Easy solution, complete rebuilt
>distributor and cap.
>> > Spark was still a little erratic but
>much better. A
>> > new ignition module took care of the
>rest. Those are
>> > really cheap now. Next came the carburetion. The
>> > manifold gasket was leaking exhaust at
>the #1 port so
>> > I installed a new gasket and double
>checked all of the
>> > ports and the manifold. No Problems
>there. Tore down
>> > the carb and the same joker had been
>messing in there
>> > too. Not going to waste time on it.
>Called National
>> > Automotive lines and they had a rebuilt
>one in stock.
>> > Fuel pump was pretty weak so put a new
>one on while I
>> > was at it. I have a clear fuel filter on
>it and with
>> > the new stronger pump it was showing a
>few bubbles. A
>> > new section of tank to pump fuel line cured that.
>> > Still a slight firing problem on #4...
>Seemed OK for
>> > the first few seconds then a little
>rough from then
>> > on. I had already put in new plugs and
>new wires and
>> > tried a new plug again on #4, Even
>switched some plugs
>> > around. Spark was OK just not firing
>quite right on #4
>> > yet. I was not using the truck a lot so just kept
>> > using it around the farm. Recently it
>started running
>> > worse again, all on the #4 cylinder. I decided to
>> > change the lifters on #4 and just a
>while ago I opened
>> > it up and the intake rocker arm stud on
>#4 has sheared
>> > the roll pin and lifted up about 1/4".
>I'm going to
>> > change those two lifters on #4 and
>reinstall the stud
>> > and see what happens. The only thing I
>can come up
>> > with is that somehow something is
>causing those old
>> > lifters to not release and pushing too
>far on the lift
>> > popping those roll pins. I also think
>that they are
>> > letting the valve close OK at cranking
>speeds (which
>> > gives a good compression test) but even
>at idle speeds
>> > they are not letting the valve close
>quite all of the
>> > way. It was the intake on both the #3
>and the #4. I'm
>> > wondering if somebody got dirt of some
>kind in those
>> > lifters back when they put the new head
>on it. From
>> > the looks of the other work that was done on this
>> > thing nothing would surprise me.
>> >
>> > I am average height but have trouble reaching the
>> > back of the engine over the grill or
>fenders. May have
>> > something to do with my gut sticking out
>more than my
>> > arms.   :-)   I don't bend in all of the
>right spots
>> > either. I have a small platform about 6"
>high x 2' x
>> > 3' that I put down to stand on but that
>was not enough
>> > to reach this very well. There sits the
>compressor
>> > ready to go... Grab the stem tool and
>pull both front
>> > valve cores... AAAHHH! Easy reach now.   ;-)
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > "farmer"
>> >
>> > My most recent list
>> >
mailto:budget_muzzleloading-subscribe at yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Francis Robinson
> > Central Indiana, USA
> > robinson at svs.net
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> >
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>
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Bob Brooks
rbrooks at hvc.rr.com

Elmo 1948 Cub
Rock Tavern, NY

"A positive attitude may not solve all your problems,
but it will annoy
enough people to make it worth the effort."
- Herm Albright
--

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