[AT] O.T. Silly #$%& truck

[charlie hill]

Or possibly someone shaved the head a bit.

Charlie
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "charlie hill" <chill8 at cox.net>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2004 6:38 PM
Subject: Re: [AT] O.T. Silly #$%& truck


> How about this Farmer.  Someone changed the cam to a higher lift or
changed
> the valve springs to something out of spec.  The valve springs are
bottoming
> out before the valve opens all the way thus putting too much presure on
the
> pivot.
>
> Charlie
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Robinson" <robinson at svs.net>
> To: "'Antique tractor email discussion group'"
> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2004 5:51 PM
> Subject: [AT] O.T. Silly #$%& truck
>
>
> > I have an 83 Ford 1/2 ton with a 300 CID 6 in it.
> > Diana's youngest brother had it (bought as an old
> > truck) and could never get it to run right. He had it
> > to a couple of garages and one convinced him that it
> > needed a new head. It was running "fair" then so he
> > bought a new set of 4 tires for it then it suddenly
> > started running really bad and clanking. He walked
> > away from it and when I found out that he was selling
> > it he was getting ready to sell it to some guy for
> > $200. I told him that I would give him $300 for it and
> > hauled it home (he had $400 in the tires).  I pulled
> > the valve cover and found that one rocker arm stud on
> > the #3 cylinder had sheared the tiny roll pin that
> > helps hold it in the head. Those studs are just
> > pressed in and have the roll pin crosswise through the
> > boss on the head and the stud. I put it back with a
> > new roll pin and we drove it for a while OK. After a
> > couple of months it let go again but this time it
> > broke the stud off at the pin hole. I replaced it
> > again and after a few months it sheared the roll pin
> > again. This time I said to hell with it and used a
> > little nickel rod to weld the stud into the block. It
> > is still holding after some time but it still wasn't
> > running right. You couldn't have asked for a better
> > compression test at cranking speed, all 6 alike. I
> > finally decided that there was a problem with the
> > lifter pumping up too far somehow...??? I have had
> > several of these 300's and they have always been
> > pretty bullet proof before. Being at a serious stage
> > of empty wallet at that time I just bought a pair of
> > lifters for that cylinder and put them in. Ran better
> > but still not right. At least that #3 cylinder was
> > firing right but #4 was a bit weak.
> > As I kept checking I found so many other little
> > things wrong with it I decided to just start "fixing
> > stuff" until it was running right.   :-)   Since I
> > found a couple of dollars then I was going to go
> > through it. The spark was kind of erratic so I looked
> > at the distributor. Not a pretty site. Lots of side
> > slop, lots of corrosion and it looked like somebody
> > had been in there "adjusting" stuff with a hammer.
> > Easy solution, complete rebuilt distributor and cap.
> > Spark was still a little erratic but much better. A
> > new ignition module took care of the rest. Those are
> > really cheap now. Next came the carburetion. The
> > manifold gasket was leaking exhaust at the #1 port so
> > I installed a new gasket and double checked all of the
> > ports and the manifold. No Problems there. Tore down
> > the carb and the same joker had been messing in there
> > too. Not going to waste time on it. Called National
> > Automotive lines and they had a rebuilt one in stock.
> > Fuel pump was pretty weak so put a new one on while I
> > was at it. I have a clear fuel filter on it and with
> > the new stronger pump it was showing a few bubbles. A
> > new section of tank to pump fuel line cured that.
> > Still a slight firing problem on #4... Seemed OK for
> > the first few seconds then a little rough from then
> > on. I had already put in new plugs and new wires and
> > tried a new plug again on #4, Even switched some plugs
> > around. Spark was OK just not firing quite right on #4
> > yet. I was not using the truck a lot so just kept
> > using it around the farm. Recently it started running
> > worse again, all on the #4 cylinder. I decided to
> > change the lifters on #4 and just a while ago I opened
> > it up and the intake rocker arm stud on #4 has sheared
> > the roll pin and lifted up about 1/4". I'm going to
> > change those two lifters on #4 and reinstall the stud
> > and see what happens. The only thing I can come up
> > with is that somehow something is causing those old
> > lifters to not release and pushing too far on the lift
> > popping those roll pins. I also think that they are
> > letting the valve close OK at cranking speeds (which
> > gives a good compression test) but even at idle speeds
> > they are not letting the valve close quite all of the
> > way. It was the intake on both the #3 and the #4. I'm
> > wondering if somebody got dirt of some kind in those
> > lifters back when they put the new head on it. From
> > the looks of the other work that was done on this
> > thing nothing would surprise me.
> >
> > I am average height but have trouble reaching the
> > back of the engine over the grill or fenders. May have
> > something to do with my gut sticking out more than my
> > arms.   :-)   I don't bend in all of the right spots
> > either. I have a small platform about 6" high x 2' x
> > 3' that I put down to stand on but that was not enough
> > to reach this very well. There sits the compressor
> > ready to go... Grab the stem tool and pull both front
> > valve cores... AAAHHH! Easy reach now.   ;-)
> >
> >
> >
> > "farmer"
> >
> > My most recent list
> > mailto:budget_muzzleloading-subscribe at yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Francis Robinson
> > Central Indiana, USA
> > robinson at svs.net
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
>
>
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