[AT] another new shop

Ralph Goff alfg at sasktel.net
Tue Aug 10 09:18:54 PDT 2004


Been a while since we made any cement on this farm but as I recall the
standard practice was to scrape the topsoil off down to good solid clay.
Which is only about 6 inches below the surface here. We used gravel base
(pit run) on some but not all. On grain bins it was a good idea to add a
moisture barrier, a sheet of heavy black plastic.
Rocks were a big part of the mix. Mostly for the reason that it saved on
cement but it also made good concrete. Cracked floors are not too common
here. In later years we got into using rebar re-inforcement. Before that it
was any odd scraps of iron, page wire, etc. added for strength.
Apparently it was a common practice to add old iron to concrete. On
demolishing old buildings it was not unusual to find the occasional plough
share or other odd bits of metal.

Ralph in Sask.
http://lgoff.sasktelwebsite.net/
----- Original Message -----
From: Almost-Running Deere <deereman1000 at hotmail.com>
To: <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2004 7:34 AM
Subject: Re: [AT] another new shop


> My base was 3/4 inch crushed stone, I am in a fairly swampy area and  when
> the pad was made I placec 6 inch perforated black plastic on the upgrade
> side, placed in 3/4 clean crushed stone.  This wraps around 3/4 of the pad
> in a trench and opens into a ditch on the downgrade side, This will run
> pretty good after big rains like we have had recently, no ponding and the
> floor moiture apersa related to excessive humitidy and temperatire swings.
> Dana SE PA
>
>
> >From: Cecil E Monson <cmonson at hvc.rr.com>
> >Reply-To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> ><at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> >To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> >Subject: Re: [AT] another new shop
> >Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2004 15:14:42 -0400
> >
> > After reading all these posts on the subject, I think the problem
> >I had here was an unstable soil condition where the shop is. There is no
> >way I can think of to stop the hillside above us from draining down thru
> >this property and the shop building site on it's way to the creek below
us.
> >I think the soil was wet when the concrete floor was poured and even
though
> >it was compacted, it may not have been stable. Then too, the weather
turned
> >cold as the pour began. The redi-mix trucks that came had antifreeze
added
> >to the concrete to keep it from freezing. The pour was normal although it
> >looked a little wet to me compared to the mix my father taught me to make
> >years ago when we re-built all the buildings on the farm. I kept heat in
> >the
> >building for a week after the pour and double sealed the concrete
according
> >to the directions on the 5 gallon pail of sealant I bought. The weather
> >warmed again and the pad did not freeze for at least 3 weeks and possibly
> >more as the concrete seemed to produce more and more heat as it cured. We
> >didn't use rebar for strength - just as pegs to keep the steel wire up
off
> >the ground and centered in the slab. I did not order mix with fibers
added
> >but will do this the next time I pour concrete. We don't have sand
> >available
> >here - at least I have never been able to find a real gravel pit where I
> >can
> >get it. My next best option then would be Item 4 crusher run which is
what
> >John Wilkens probably calls "dirty stone". It will compact about as hard
as
> >anything that can be found.
> >
> > I keep hoping someone is an expert on stand alone exterior wood
> >furnaces and certainly appreciate any comments on the shop or concrete
work
> >also.
> >
> >Cecil
> >--
> >The nicest thing about telling the truth is you never have to wonder
> >what you said.
> >
> >Cecil E Monson
> >Lucille Hand-Monson
> >Mountainville, New York   Just a little east of the North Pole
> >
> >Allis Chalmers tractors and equipment
> >
> >Free advice
> >
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