[AT] handcluctch and more 630 questions LOOONG

[Brett Phillips]

Ricky:

Clutch:  Some bucking is to be expected if you lug a 2-cylinder engine.
However, if the clutch seems grabby, there are some adjustments which may or
may not help.  The pulley brake adjustment is one that is often overlooked,
and it will cause the long lever travel that you describe.  The I&T manual
covers this, but it is a bit confusing at first.  I don't think there is a
good manual from Deere on the 630, as they will sell you one for a 60, which
is similar in some areas, but quite different in others.  Another thing that
can cause a grabby clutch is if someone has only replaced the outer facings
(common).  The toggles that move the pulley in and out are also known to
wear or break, and that might cause jerkiness.  My 630 does have a grabby
clutch, but I have never done much to it, other than adjust the engagement
and the pulley brake.  the adjustments helped some, but I am planning to
overhaul the pulley and clutch when I get a round tuit.  I doubt you'll ever
find a tractor that is easier to put a clutch in than a Waterloo 2-cyl.

Power Steering:  If it's just sluggish, it could be that it needs to be
drained, flushed, and refilled with the right John Deere PS fluid.  The JD
fluid is a cross between hydraulic oil and EP gear oil.  This is because the
oil lubricates the worm gear in the top of the pedestal, and also functions
as a hydraulic oil.  Some people use Hytran, but this will cause the worm
gear to gall and lock.  A weak pump or a misadjusted flow control valve
could also cause sluggish steering.  If you end up going into the worm and
valve assembly, be warned that you can spend lots of time and money there,
as the tolerances are pretty close, and some patience is required to set
things up properly.  When the system is working properly, it is on a par
with New Generation JD power steering, i.e. you can steer with your pinky
finger.

Exhaust leak:  This is another place where you can get into money if things
have gone too far.  The bolts can be difficult to get out without breaking
if they haven't been out for a while.  Mine came out fairly easily, as
someone had replaced the gasket before I bought my 630.  Unfortunately, they
had broken off one of the bolts, and had done a nasty job of drilling it out
and rethreading.  the gasket surface was .030" out of flat too, so I pulled
the head and had the hole helicoiled and the gasket surface milled flat.  It
wasn't a particularly hard job, but I wished someone had done it right the
first time.  I was lucky that the exhaust port was in good shape, I have
seen some that were badly eroded and required welding to build them up.
Some heads might be cheaper to replace than fix...

Brakes:  These are adjusted by tightening the square headed bolt that sticks
out the back of the backing plate.  Most Waterloo 2-Cylinders are the same.
Typically, the adjusters are stuck from sitting out in the weather, but they
aren't too hard to fix if you remove the brake drum and use some heat on the
adjuster pins.  Be sure to slather them up with anti-sieze when you put it
together again.  The entire brake assembly can be removed from the
transmission by removing three bolts, and this may make it easier or harder
to work on, depending on what you're doing to the brakes.  If your shoes are
in good condition, a JD dealer will usually rivet new lining on for 50-60
bucks.

Did you check out the PTO?  The foot clutch might seem clumsy at first, but
I assure you, it is slick when you get used to it.  The problems you
describe are all fairly typical for an off-the-farm 630, and might be minor
or major repairs, depending on how bad things are.  The power steering has
the potential to be a $1000+ bill if you let a dealer get ahold of it, or
$50 to flush and refill.  The clutch could be a free adjustment or a
complete rebuild for several hundred bucks.  I'm not sure what the worst
case would be on the exhaust leak, as I haven't priced a head lately, but it
could be nasty too.  Might not either...  Be sure to take a peek at the
flywheel hub and the clutch driver before you buy it.  Both are visible
after removing tin covers with a screwdriver.  Looseness there means $$$.
Let us know how it's equipped, and we can maybe give you a ballpark figure
on what it's worth.

Sorry this got so long,
Brett

-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]On Behalf Of Ricky Prescott
Sent: Friday, April 16, 2004 9:27 AM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: [AT] handcluctch and more 630 questions


I drove the 630 yesterday.  They had to pull it to get it started.  It had
been sitting for 3 years.  It has always been sheded.  It bucks some when
you take off in higher gears.  Can you adjust the hand clutch so that it
won't do that?  It also did it in reverse.  You had to push the hand clutch
a long ways to get it to snap.  Is there some adjustment to move the handle
back some?  Does it need new clutch disc?  The power steering was a little
stiff also.  What needs to be done there?  There was an exhaust leak.
between the head and manifold.  How hard is it to get the manifold bolts
off?  The left brakes was weak.  Is there an ajustment for it?  That is all
I can remember.  Let me know what you think.  Ricky
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