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<p>The only experience I have with coil resistors was on older
Chrysler products that used a block type resistor usually mounted
near the coil. The purpose was not to protect the coil but to
protect the points. Running 12V through the points would cause
them to burn quicker than running only 6V.</p>
<p>The resistor was wired in such a way that when starting there was
12V to the coil as it was tapped off of the solenoid wire, but
when you put the key back to run, the coil was powered through the
ignition switch, through the resistor and was only getting about
6V.</p>
<p>The resistors were potted in a ceramic block and mounted in the
open as they would generate heat from dissipating that excess 6
volts. If the resistor failed the engine would start but die as
soon as you dropped the key back to run. It was fairly common,
easy to diagnose and easy to fix by replacing the resistor. Like
any light bulb, they just burned out at random times.</p>
<p>It sounds like your 3020 is kind of wired that way. If you are
seeing no resistance on the wire, it may have been replaced in the
past or the resistor has been removed. It will run, but will be
hard on the points. If it was a resistance wire it would have been
left out of the harness to dissipate the heat.</p>
<p>Hope this helps,</p>
<p>Stuart<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/31/24 00:11, Dean Vinson wrote:<br>
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<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:000001dafb64$45b397b0$d11ac710$@vinsonfarm.net">
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<p class="MsoNormal">Tinkering with the 3020 yesterday and I
opened up the dashboard panel to see what was behind it, and
found a rosy colored mousenest decorated with the insulation
from a formerly-red wire stringing back through there.
There’s a three-inch section of wire where the copper strands
are exposed, oxidized dark but still intact with good
continuity. <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I can replace the wire easily enough, but
I’m trying to get my head around its function. Near as I can
tell from the wiring diagram it’s a “resistance wire”. It’s
one of two wires connected to the input side of the coil, the
other one coming from the starter solenoid. Service manual
wiring diagram shows it coming from the ignition switch, but
this one comes from a circuit breaker mounted below the
ignition switch. It’s outside the harness so presumably a
replacement for an original wire that failed at some point.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The battery is a 12-volt and the parts
manual says the coil is a 6-volt. Resistance across the coil
tests at 2.8 ohms, and 12V applied at the input side tests at
12V at the output side, both of which suggest this coil is a
12-volt rather than 6 (according to some websites I found with
tips on how to tell the difference).<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">So if the “resistance wire” was intended to
protect the 6-volt ignition system from the 12-volt battery,
but the OEM coil was replaced with a 12-volt, do I need to
replace the wire or can I just remove it and call it good?<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Dean Vinson<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Saint Paris, Ohio<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><img
style="width:11.1145in;height:14.802in" id="Picture_x0020_1"
src="cid:part1.Bym3toIW.al0iwhf0@harnerfarm.net" class=""
width="1067" height="1421"><o:p></o:p></p>
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<br>
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