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<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">That is really interesting. I like the idea of making the winch removable for use elsewhere but also so I could get it out of the wet weather we have here in NW WA during the 9 month wet winter. I wouldn't use it for at least 5 months while I am in AZ for the winter anyway. Your heavy channel iron that fits around the existing channel iron the end of the trailer bed is an excellent idea. In my previous thinking I wondered if I needed the receiver hitch to have a plate under it to spread the torque load onto the bed boards. It appears you expect the large channel iron bolted to the front of the trailer frame bed to handle that. I need to look and see what spare channel iron I have available to me. Seems to me I have seen a commercial winch frame set up for a receiver hitch so all I would have to fabricate is the female tube that bolts to the front of the bed frame. I think even with my limited welding experience I could weld up something that would be strong enough. I am much better at stick welding heavy metal than the thinner metals with my Lincoln buzz box. Thanks for the tips.</div><div><br></div>
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On Thursday, April 18, 2024 at 06:31:50 AM PDT, Stuart Harner <stuart@harnerfarm.net> wrote:
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<p>Here is an el-cheapo HF 12,000# winch that I bought a few years
ago. It was on a really good sale and I had been thinking that
someday I am going to need a good winch.</p>
<p>It came with a really nice long jumper cable type cord with a
quick disconnect but no mounting plate. That was sold separately.</p>
<p>I made the red plate to fit my receiver hitch. Advantage, it will
work on someone else's vehicle if needed. I also made the black
receiver from an old piece of scrap channel iron. The front rail
on my trailer won't let me mount it dead center and for some
reason I decided that I may have the need to remove it if some
situation dictated, so it is just bolted on. It will work left or
right of center.</p>
<p>I swapped the cables around putting the short end with the quick
connect on the winch, leaving the long end with the quick connect
and battery clamps loose. This also allows for portability to
other vehicles.</p>
<p>My thinking on the capacity and duty cycle is that capacity is
the maximum pull the winch can exert on the cable. The cable is
rated higher than that. Line speed is listed both at full load and
no load. Unfortunately all sales material lists the no load speed
for promotional purposes. </p>
<p>Anything that rolls even if it weighs 12,000# will never need
that much force to move it, even on an incline up a ramp so the
winch will never see a max pull situation. I think the short duty
cycle listing is for full load, but at any rate, you need to
monitor the motor temp until you learn how much it can take. One
of the biggest factors will be battery cable size/voltage drop.</p>
<p>Admittedly I have not had a need to use mine so in this case it
is just my theory. Hopefully others with more experience will
chime in.</p>
<p>Stuartn 4/18/24 00:40, Dean VP wrote:</p>
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<div dir="ltr">Since my accident I am unable
to turn my head to the rear nearly as much as I was able to in
the past which wasn't all that good before as I've gotten
older. But,,,, I still want to load tractors on my 20' tilt
10,400 lb GVW equipment trailer but in a little safer way than
before. I tend to load tractors on backwards so I can get
more weight on the tongue since JD Two Cylinder tractors have
about 70% of their total weight on the rear axle. My heaviest
Two Cylinder is a JD 720 LP Standard which weighs close to
8000 lbs. So... my idea is to get a 12,000 lb Winch mounted to
the very front of the tilt bed and winch tractors on rather
than back them on. My thinking is to have a cordless remote so
I could sit in the seat of the tractor while it is being
pulled on so I could steer a bit if necessary. I do have
removable fenders and the bed is 102" wide through the whole
20' except between the tires so I don't have to be perfectly
centered. Now thinking of Winches i have decided that even
though my heaviest tractor is 8000 lbs I will be pulling up a
slope so I need the extra pulling capacity and I want the
extra capacity to get a better duty cycle. If one looks at
the specs of various winches Duty Cycle is not even mentioned
or conveniently hidden but if one digs deep enough you will
find worrying specs of winching 45 seconds under full load and
then have to wait 15 minutes. That is not compatible with my
needs. Especially when typical winching speeds of 20 FPM are
applied to a 20'</div>
<div dir="ltr">trailer. Initial looks at
some higher priced winches gets better Duty Cycles that appear
to be acceptable. Then the winch specs are based on which
level the tow cable or rope is at which gets really confusing.
I am leaning toward getting a rope as opposed to a steel cable
just simply because how nasty steel cables can be. If
necessary, I'm willing to replace the rope occasionally if it
wears out. I'm thinking of using a steel plate that has a
right angle that wraps around the front end of the bed frame
bolted in and then bolt the winch and plate though the bed. I
haven't found a commercial plate that does that so may have to
fabricate one. <span><span style="color:rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;">But
given all those parameters, I am interested in what ATIS
members have found to work for them. Or whatever brands
are suggested for Winches and recommendations on how to
mount the winch on the bed of the trailer. I don't want
to spend more than necessary but I also realize I can't
lowball this. .Any comments, suggestions and help will be
appreciated. </span></span></div>
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