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<p>Dean: I think you can take the cover off under the bell housing
and run the 3 bolts out on the clutch pressure plate toadjust the
release of the PTO disc. I would count the number of rounds and
run each one out the same. Be sure to tighten the locking nut on
them...I probably have a manual on that clutch around here but I
have moved and still moving my office into my home...<br>
Cecil<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/20/2023 11:40 AM, Dean Vinson
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:001601d9bb28$e9b48c70$bd1da550$@vinsonfarm.net">
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<p class="MsoNormal">Good story, Steve. It’s been a long time
since I’ve made the effort and gotten my hands dirty on a job
like that, but your description makes me want to go tinker
with something. Especially the part where you’re victorious
at the end of the story. :)<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I do have a couple of long-simmering things
I could mess with. The JD 620 has a wire disconnected from
the coil, been like that for years and the tractor runs fine
and I haven’t noticed anything not working, but obviously the
wire is there for some purpose so it’s on my list of stuff to
get around to at some point. And I need to take the Super M
clutch pedal off and have a bushing inserted to rebuild the
out-of-round hole where the pedal rotates about the shaft.
The local Case/IH dealer put a new shaft in for me several
months ago while the tractor was in their shop for another
issue anyway, and that fixed a lot but not all of the
side-to-side play in the clutch pedal. Either of those would
presumably be pretty straightforward tasks, well suited to
patient application of basic investigation and simple tools
and without requiring much serious mechanic skill.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The Ford 3600 also just popped up with
another issue, this time with the two-stage clutch. I just
recently got the tractor back from the shop after it had
developed a fuel line leak, and it runs like a top, but after
some hours of heavy brush-hogging last Saturday it now won’t
let me engage the PTO. With the two-stage clutch you push
partway down to shift the transmission and all the way down to
engage the PTO, and it’s always worked fine before, but now
when I push the clutch all the way in I can’t engage the PTO…
it just grinds. I don’t have a good mental picture of
exactly how a two-stage clutch works but I assume something
stuck together while I was doing all that mowing the other
day, or maybe got worn to the point where it needs
readjustment or replacement, but either way I think the
diagnosis and repair would be beyond my “simple tools and
without much serious skill” rule. So it’ll be back to the
shop for this little beast.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">As a workaround in the meantime I can still
use the PTO if I just shut the engine off before engaging it
and then start back up, and I did that once already, but as I
think about it I suspect it’s not a good idea for regular
use. Starting the engine with the PTO engaged and a brush
hog attached to the PTO would mean the starter and ring gear
have to overcome the inertia of the mower blades, correct?
The tractor starts almost instantly upon cranking it, but
still, seems like I’d be asking for trouble if I use that
procedure very much.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Dean Vinson<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Saint Paris, Ohio<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<div>
<div style="border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1
1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b>From:</b> AT
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com"><at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com></a> <b>On Behalf
Of </b>STEVE ALLEN<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, July 19, 2023 4:03 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com">at@lists.antique-tractor.com</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> [AT] A Good Tractor Evening<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">The list seems slow, so I thought I share
a quick note that might be of some interest. It is about my
'49 JD A, the one that needs a new flywheel.<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">For some years, it has also needed
attention to the gear shift stick, which developed the
unfortunate habit of coming up out of engagement with the
transmission. It is held in place by two snap rings, one
below and one above the ball that allows it to move. My
older son, in his younger years, used to sit on the seat and
"drive" the tractor, pulling with all his might on that
stick. At some point in the process, he must have pulled it
so hard that the lower snap ring came out of its groove (I
suspect it made it all the way to the bottom of the sump
because I've never seen or heard evidence of the ring ending
up in the gears).<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Anywho, I finally gathered the necessary
brain cells together to get on the Deere website and order 3
of those snap rings. Yes, I said three even though the
project only needs two. It would be me all over to ruin one
or lose it, so I wanted a bit of redundancy. Deere does
still have them for about $3.50 each. I might have been
able to source them elsewhere, but why go through the hassle
of making sure they are the correct size when Mother Deere
has already gone to that trouble? (Side note: the parts
guy I talked to when I picked them up at my local dealer
told me that 2-cyl parts are getting pretty scarce though
they get a lot of traffic in them and even occasionally work
on one in their shop.)<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">I had, years back, bought a spare stick
with some of the other parts from Sharps, so, armed with
more parts than I needed, I unbolted the stick assembly from
the top of the transmission and brought it into the shop for
rejuvenation. Once I had it on the bench, I had to learn
that the parts would come off only from the top: the ball
at the base of the stick was too large to permit the pivot
ball and collar, the retaining spring, the washers, and the
cover to slide off the bottom end. I was inhibited by not
having a pair of the proper snap ring pliers. Nevertheless,
I got two new snap rings on with all the parts in the right
order between them. (Well, I did need to start over at one
point because I started in the wrong order, but my heads was
upside down.) I also used the wire wheel on the rusty base
of the shift pattern housing and all four cap screws and
washers used to hold the whole shebang in place.<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">So, with the rebuilt stick (just how hard
can if be to rebuild a stick, anyway??) in hand, it was back
to the shed. The problem was getting the four cap screws
back in their holes. When I had removed them, I could push
the stick complete;y out of the way, and I had no need to
grasp them after removing them: I could just let them fall
out of the housing when I removed it. But keeping them in
the socket as I started them in their holes proved to be a
pain. As I was struggling, my son--who was responsible for
the whole mess anyway--came home from work, and I sent him
back to the shop for the longest pair of needle-nose pliers
he could find. They were *just* long enough to do the job,
and so i was able to tighten all the cap screws, keeping the
assembly in place. <o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Running it through all the positions, it
seemed to be up to snuff, so we won't have to hold the stick
down when we shift anymore.<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Now, to find the time to get the
cotton-pickin' flywheel changed. Got to have my son
around. He works throwing cases and building pallets for a
beer distributor, so he can pick up that flywheel; it would
be rather an over-match for my back anymore. But we're one
step close to having TWO operational As!<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Then, it'll be time to put the new
manifold on the '47 B--that's a job i do not look forward
to. I am sure we can get the old manifold off; I am NOT
sure we can get the old studs out of the head with out much
tearing of hair and gnashing of teeth.<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Obviously, a type of snap ring pliers
must exist which are made for rings that have no holes in
the ends, just beveled ends. I have many older tools
inhereted from my father, but none seem to fit the bill. Do
any of you know what I am looking for?<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">But it was a Good Tractor Evening
yesterday despite the hassles, and I hope I didn't bore
anyone.<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Sweatingly,<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">The "original" Steve Allen<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">'47 B, '49 A, '51 A, all in Mid-MO<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
</div>
<br>
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