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<p><a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="https://www.mcmaster.com/threaded-rods/thread-size~3-8-16/material~steel/threading~threaded-on-both-ends/">https://www.mcmaster.com/threaded-rods/thread-size~3-8-16/material~steel/threading~threaded-on-both-ends/</a></p>
<p>Cecil</p>
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 9/18/2022 10:02 PM, Spencer Yost
wrote:<br>
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cite="mid:F4D20674-B35F-4359-9DE9-064063FC8F05@rdfarms.com">
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<div dir="ltr">Thanks John. It was tricky to find it.
<div dir="ltr">
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<div>The Allis is going down with a fight. As you may
remember, this tractor had an all fuel manifold. In addition
that manifold was in absolutely horrible shape. It’s the
worst manifold I’ve ever seen I’m pretty sure. Was glad the
seller had a new repo gas manifold that came with the
tractor.</div>
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<div>T<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;
caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); color: rgb(0, 0, 0);
background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">he manifold studs
that I was so very careful to extract and clean up turn
out not to be long enough(4 of them anyways) for the new
gas manifold that came with the tractor. So I had to buy
longer studs. </span></div>
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rgb(0, 0, 0); color: rgb(0, 0, 0); background-color:
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<div><font color="#000000"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0,
0); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color:
rgb(255, 255, 255);">Finding studs that weren’t a $50
kit from an eBay seller actually turned out to be a lot
harder than I thought. I eventually found some but if
you ever run across some 3/8–16 studs in the 3 to 5 inch
length grab them and keep them because one day soon they
will be extinct.</span></font></div>
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0); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color:
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<div>Spencer </div>
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<div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div>
<div dir="ltr"><br>
<blockquote type="cite">On Sep 18, 2022, at 8:55 AM, John
Hall <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:jtchall@nc.rr.com"><jtchall@nc.rr.com></a> wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr"><span>Good find!! I've ran into internal
wiring bad on those as well as the insulators for
models like you have with a kill switch through the
side. Fortunately we have a machine to test them on so
I can "run" the magneto without the cap and look to
see if any internal sparking going on. Even then it
can drive you nuts. Sometimes you can unhook the coil
and condenser and just play around with a meter
looking for continuity, but if its not grounded and
just "leaking or jumping an arc, you'll never find it.
FYI if you are having to bench test, I normally put a
small adjustable wrench on the drive lug, turning mags
by hand gets old real quick!!</span><br>
<span></span><br>
<span>John Hall</span><br>
<span></span><br>
<span>On 9/17/2022 10:58 AM, Spencer Yost wrote:</span><br>
<blockquote type="cite"><span>Just a quick update. If
you remember, I couldn’t get a spark from magneto at
a spark plug terminal. I was getting a great spark
at the coil so it wasn’t the points or the coil.</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span></span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>The mag did not yield to
my persistence easily. The problem did turn out to
be in the inner base. Thanks to Brice’s patient
consulting and many different tests I ultimately
found that I could create a spark at a test rod
placed through the base to the coil when the base
was in place but not tightened down. But if I
tightened the base down the spark would be very weak
and intermittent. Started looking all around and
eventually found this. It’s a crack in the kill
switch wire Apparently the base would push the wire
close enough to ground to eat or share the spark
(leaving my test spark weak and intermittent) when
tightened but not when the base was simply “in
place”. Leaving the kill switch wire disconnected
and tucked out of the way the magneto worked great.</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>By the way, the crack was
never visible. It was on the bottom of the wire.
When I disconnected it from the points post and
lifted it up I was able to see it. The act of
lifting it up widened it quite a bit. The crack was
not originally this gaping canyon you see here.
Insulation had completely fossilized.</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>To give you an idea how
long it took me to figure this out, let me just say
that I actually sprained a finger from tripping the
impulse so much. (-:</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>Spencer</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>Sent from my iPhone</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>On Sep 12, 2022, at 4:52
PM, John Hall <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:jtchall@nc.rr.com"><jtchall@nc.rr.com></a> wrote:</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>I'm sure an AC C is a
money pit about anywhere in NC. If it weren't for
collectors, you couldn't give an old small Deere
away. The IH offset models still seem to be
holding fairly strong prices if they are in decent
shape with fast hitch due to so many still being
used by gardeners.</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>I've got a 44 DC Case I
pull wagons with. Fires up instantly in any
weather. Doesn't use oil or leak antifreeze. Looks
horrible, tires are rough. I bet I couldn't get
$800 for it. Now if it were an Farmall H or M,
probably worth 1/2 again more.</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>I think a LOT of pre
1960 tractors are to the point it costs way more
to keep them in great shape than they will ever
sell for. I've got 2 Super A's that are needing
tires. I use the tractors so I won't hesitate to
replace the tires when needed as I don't really
care what the tractors would sell for.</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>John Hall</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>On 9/11/2022 11:56 PM,
Spencer Yost wrote:</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>Thanks. Based on
experience and my thumb I feel pretty confident
it should at least pop off. Once I get it
popping off I’ll do the leak down test.</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>I’m actually not sure
what I’m gonna do with this tractor. This is
Farmall/IH country. And like the rest of the US,
tractors this old just aren’t generating much
interest. So based on these two facts I’m not
sure I can even find anyone locally that’s
interested in doing the final cleaning, gasket
replacement and cosmetic restoration. And like
the dog analogy, I’m not sure if I’ll find a
better home for it or I’ll just keep it as a
companion for joy rides.</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>Maybe it will pull the
tedder when I do hay. But the Pacer might get
jealous (-:</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>Spencer</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>On Sep 11, 2022,
at 10:23 PM, John Hall
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:jtchall@nc.rr.com"><jtchall@nc.rr.com></a> wrote:</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite">
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>On magnetos I just
say the heck with it and replace all the usual
suspects that cause trouble. Standard Magneto
is still probably the best and cheapest source
of parts.</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>One thing I've
started using is a leak down tester, got mine
from Harbor Freight. I will say you gotta
watch the starting crank when using it, best
to have 2 people I've found.</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>On 9/11/2022 9:38
PM, Spencer Yost wrote:</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>I’ve been pretty
quiet. I thought life would get less busy as
I got older but it hasn’t really turned out
that way.</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>I did manage to
score a new (to me) tractor. It’s an Allis
Chalmers ‘C’; 1947. I didn’t really intend
to get it, but it was sort of like picking
up a rescue dog just because you couldn’t
stand to see it put down.. Belonged to an
old man who bought it because a ‘C’ was the
tractor he learned to drive on 75 years ago.
He just never had the energy, health, time
to work on it. He had done some work and
had pretty much disassembled it. Because of
its state and condition he just really never
had any active buyers. It looked destined
for an estate sale where the junk man picked
it up for pennies.</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>Anyways, he had
lots of new parts (gauges, manifolds,
decals, fenders, etc) and had done a pretty
decent job restoring the gas tank. Right now
the magneto is not making any spark but with
the help of Brice Adams I’ve narrowed it
down to something in the rotor cap or the
inner base simply eating the spark. I get a
nice blue spark jumping directly to the coil
button so I feel confident that a tuneup for
magneto will bring it to life.</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>Right now I
managed to pull the manifold studs without
breaking a single one. I even got the nuts
off. So after soaking in parts cleaner
tonight I’ll chase all the threads, clean
and file mating surfaces, and get them back
in the engine. One of the new parts he had
was a brand new manifold and manifold
gasket.</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>I haven’t done a
compression test, but the engine does put
plenty of pressure on the thumb when turning
it by hand so it should start at least.
The old manifold was an all-fuel manifold.
It looked original based on it’s nearly
completely disintegrated condition. Engine
serial number does have a G suffix(think
that means gas engine) so maybe it got a gas
engine swap sometime in its history and
they simply reused the all-fuel manifold? No
idea. I just want the engine to pop before I
route fuel lines and worry about power,
performance, and idle smoothness.</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>That’s it for now,</span><br>
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