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<p>I have had good luck with reverse twist drills and also the
square tapered easy outs. The screw type easy outs never seemed
to work for me. That said I am still trying to get a bolt out of
the lower radiator support on my 83 FLC 120 freightliner. The
radiator shop tried to weld a nut on it to get it out and they
just hardened it. It was a 3 hour job and that one broken bolt
has turned it into a 3 week ordeal. It is just too hot here for
me to work very long. It was still 99deg at midnight last
night. It was 97 at 7am this morning...</p>
<p>Cecil<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/20/2022 11:53 AM, Dean VP wrote:<br>
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It would seem to.me that this situation should follow the same
logic as getting brass plugs out of a carburetor. Heating them up
will loosen them so much that I've been able to remove them after
they have cooled with just my fingers. My suggestion would be to
use an acetylene torch with the smallest tip.you have and heat the
broken off part to just before it changes color. Then use a
reverse drill whatever size creates resistance. It might just
turn out by hand. I would not recommend using an EZY out. They
expand the broken off part and just create more tension.<br>
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<div>On Wed, Jul 20, 2022 at 7:28 AM, Gunnells, Brad R</div>
<div><a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:brad-gunnells@uiowa.edu"><brad-gunnells@uiowa.edu></a> wrote:</div>
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<p class="yiv3743669344MsoNormal">Ok, seems we need a
little tractor talk here (but I wish I weren’t asking
this!).</p>
<p class="yiv3743669344MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="yiv3743669344MsoNormal">My dad went to replace
the oil pressure sending unit on his IH 656. The
sending unit was fitted into a brass elbow that
screwed into the block. When he put the wrench on the
sending unit it broke the elbow. So…here we are. We
presumed that being brass it shouldn’t weld itself to
the block and should just spin out with an easy out.
Wrong! That little bastard is stuck in there good!
Feeling a twist in the easy-out we didn’t want to risk
breaking it off in there and compound the problem. We
thought about using heat on the block as you would a
steel bolt, but given the proximity we didn’t want to
get things hot and cause a leak in the nearby gasket
for what I presume is the timing gear cover.</p>
<p class="yiv3743669344MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="yiv3743669344MsoNormal">Being brass we thought
maybe we could take a sharpened punch and cut through
and break the remaining part out of the block. While
we got some of it, it didn’t really do what we’d
hoped. I think we’re down to trying to drill it out.
But I’m not fond of this idea as it’s an oil passage
and any metal in there could be disastrous.</p>
<p class="yiv3743669344MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="yiv3743669344MsoNormal">I figured I’d throw
this out to the group and see if there’s anything we
could/should do different? If we do indeed go the
drill route we’d probably dip the bit in some grease
to try and get any shavings to cling to the bit and
remove it frequently to clean it off. Hopefully
avoiding metal shavings inside. Then prior to
installing the new pressure switch crank the tractor
for a moment and let it push some engine oil out of
the block hopefully flushing any debris.</p>
<p class="yiv3743669344MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="yiv3743669344MsoNormal">Am I overlooking
anything, or other options? I’ll also attempt to add a
picture.</p>
<p class="yiv3743669344MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="yiv3743669344MsoNormal">Thanks for any
suggestions<br>
Brad</p>
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