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<p>So what you are saying is that you are stuck with ether or...?</p>
<p>Sorry, couldn't resist. :)<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 2/15/22 10:14, Cecil Bearden wrote:<br>
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cite="mid:e9a67129-910b-bc46-d0c8-526eaad6d714@copper.net">
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<p>There are 2 types of ether starting fluid. 20% and 50% <br>
</p>
<p>Cecil<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 2/15/2022 8:19 AM, Indiana
Robinson wrote:<br>
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cite="mid:CAMe_8WX_xgUcvynae8oRxPn=pnXvjoyxSyJK7JbFu2-04W_nqw@mail.gmail.com">
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<div>Thanks guys...I need to use it this week and maybe next
week. I'll be trying some things, especially Steve's LP
trick. I wonder where I put those torches. :-) <br>
</div>
<div>One thing on my side now is that it will be 50 degrees
today and 60 tomorrow. I may not need anything extra. I do
know that one problem is the thick oil in the tank and it
not having a way to clutch out the pump for starting.</div>
<div>I'll try to keep you posted.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
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<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Feb 14, 2022 at 9:59
AM Stuart Harner <<a href="mailto:stuart@harnerfarm.net"
moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-freetext">stuart@harnerfarm.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
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<div>
<p>Remember the old fire triangle? Fuel-Air-Heat.</p>
<p>With the ever more restrictive regulations filtering
down to the smaller engines the manufacturers have had
to lean out the mix as far as possible. If you were to
put a pyrometer on one my guess is that at operating
temperature they are running on the lean side of peak.</p>
<p>As air temp drops it gets more dense but without a
choke to compensate the mix is just too lean to light
off. To make things worse they have taken all of the
adjustments away from the end user to prevent us from
becoming criminals against the regulations. I suspect it
also makes the carbs easier and cheaper to manufacture.
If a bad one slips through, just replace it or the
engine because it is cheaper than figuring out the
problem. We see this in a lot more then carburetors.</p>
<p>Changing to a lighter hydraulic fluid will help make it
easier to spin the engine faster when pulling the
starter. I am not sure if that will help make a hotter
spark or not considering it probably has electronic
ignition anyway. Faster starting RPM could help with
sucking in more fuel each stroke but then that means
more air to, so back to lean.</p>
<p>I suspect that Farmer's engine sputters once in a while
is that the raw fuel builds up enough in the cylinder to
cause a rich enough mixture to fire once or twice. Once
that is burned off, back to square one.</p>
<p>I am not sure that adjusting the valves would help any
unless there is a way to lengthen the duration. Taking
out all the backlash might cause the valve to open a
fraction sooner, but once everything is warm and
expanded there is a risk of it not closing fully and
burning the valve or seat.</p>
<p>To get a more rich mixture for starting you could try
to restrict air (like the old choke plates did) or add
fuel like a primer does.</p>
<p>I have a Knipco stye heater that will not light off at
any air temp unless I use both hands and cover as much
of the air intake as possible. It lights in less than a
second and then runs fine. I have tried different
nozzles and moving the igniter around, but it still
needs less air to get going.</p>
<p>On the 1978 motorcycle I once had it was a victim of
early tampering with emissions on motorcycles. When new
it would not start on a cool day and it had a manual
choke. I rigged up a way to inject a little ether into
the airbox that was buried under the seat. Had to put
10,000 miles on that bike before it got over that
problem.</p>
<p>The idea of using an unlit torch to add a little fuel
sounds like a good one. Red Green would just slap a
little piece of duct tape on the air intake until it
warms up.</p>
<p>Best of luck to Farmer getting this working.</p>
<p>Stuart<br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<div>On 2/14/22 01:34, Greg Hass wrote:<br>
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<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">I have a JD Zero Turn with 27 hp. Briggs
engine and electric start. Anything around 45 to 50
degrees and it just wouldn't start. It does not idle
good either, but the book says that is because of
emissions control. My brother has a Simplicity zero
turn 3 years old and several times has tried to start
it in 40 degree and it just won't fire so it is not
just my mower. Both engines have fixed jets so no
adjustment is possible. It is possible other things
could be wrong, but my only other idea is to make sure
it has fresh WINTER blend gas.
<div> Greg Hass</div>
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<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Feb 13, 2022
at 8:15 AM Moe Fretz <<a
href="mailto:tubetester@gmail.com" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">tubetester@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
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0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
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<div>
<div dir="auto">Try this site, they should be able
to help you. </div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
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<div><a
href="http://ppeten.com/forums/search.php?search_id=newposts"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">http://ppeten.com/forums/search.php?search_id=newposts</a></div>
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<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sat, Feb
12, 2022 at 18:51 Mike M <<a
href="mailto:meulenms@gmx.com"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">meulenms@gmx.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
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<div> Hi Farmer,<br>
Just a thought, my log splitter was hard to
start in cold weather, until I changed the
hydraulic fluid from the OEM fluid to
transmission fluid,a whole world of
difference.<br>
<br>
Mike M</div>
<div><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<div>On 2/12/2022 9:24 PM, Stephen Offiler
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">Hi farmer: I'd have to
think you've already been down this
road, but, I'll say for the record that
I've had pretty decent luck downloading
manuals from the Briggs site. But I
haven't done it lately, and it's always
20-year old stuff when I do. The other
thing I'll mention is the good old unlit
propane torch in the intake trick.
That's my go-to when they're almost
trying to start. There's spark and fuel
but the modern carburetors are set lean
for emissions and it just seems that the
choke doesn't quite get the mixture rich
enough.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Good luck,</div>
<div>Steve O.</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On
Sat, Feb 12, 2022 at 7:43 PM Indiana
Robinson <<a
href="mailto:robinson46176@gmail.com"
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">robinson46176@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
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<div>We have a log splitter a couple
of years old that has a OHV CR950
Briggs. It only has a few hours on
it but has become quite hard to
start (recoil start). It is way
too recent for my knowledge
base... It seems that most things
are these days. Apparently the OHV
Brigg's have a cam bump
"compression relief" I also
understand that there is an
important valve adjustment
procedure that can normally
improve starting problems. We
can't find a site that gives a
clear and understandable
explanation of the procedure.</div>
<div>Does anyone know of a site with
a clear description of how to do
it? It will usually start if it is
sitting in the sun and the temp is
at least 50... Yesterday at 45
degrees it "ALMOST" started 837
times... It keeps firing enough to
keep you trying and trying...<br>
</div>
<div>Thanks<br>
</div>
<div><br>
-- <br>
<div dir="ltr">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>-- <br>
<br>
Francis Robinson<br>
aka "farmer"<br>
Central Indiana USA<br>
<a
href="mailto:robinson46176@gmail.com"
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">robinson46176@gmail.com</a><br>
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-- <br>
<div dir="ltr">Moe Fretz <br>
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L’Orignal ON,<br>
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<div>-- <br>
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Francis Robinson<br>
aka "farmer"<br>
Central Indiana USA<br>
<a href="mailto:robinson46176@gmail.com" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-freetext">robinson46176@gmail.com</a><br>
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