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Sorry Bill, but I believe I mis-spoke. I don't believe it's the
governor linkage, I believe it's the throttle linkage, moving the
throttle lever does not increase the RPM's at all, it stays at
idle. Manually moving the throttle tab on the carb itself will make
it rev up.<br>
<br>
Regards,<br>
Mike M <br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/5/2021 6:18 PM, Bill Brueck
wrote:<br>
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<p class="MsoNormal">To adjust the governor linkage, loosen the
nut or small bolt that holds the governor arm to the shaft
coming out of the engine block. Hold both the carb link and
the governor shaft at the junction of the adjustment in the
far-open position. Tighten the nut.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">It’s really that simple.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Bill Brueck<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Pine Island, MN<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">B²<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Confusion is a higher state of knowledge
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<p class="MsoNormal"><b>From:</b> AT
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com"><at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com></a> <b>On Behalf
Of
</b>Mike M<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, October 5, 2021 5:11 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com">at@lists.antique-tractor.com</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [AT] OT- Troy-Bilt Horse<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt">Thanks for all
the advice,does anyone have a schematic for the governor
linkage for the engine, it's a Tecumseh Xtra Life Commercial
Industrial HH60. I bought a new carburetor and it purs like a
kitten, but I can't get it to high rev with the governor
linkage not attached. Any help would be appreciated.<br>
<br>
Thanks,<br>
Mike M<o:p></o:p></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On 9/29/2021 8:37 AM, Carl Szabelski
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<blockquote style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<p class="MsoNormal">Mike, <o:p></o:p></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">If the breaks are at the mounting
holes, and not at the carb body, put large flat washers
over the flanges with some JB weld and then tighten down.
The washers will help compress the flange and keep it from
working loose. You may have to grind the washers down on
one side to make them fit, but you’ll have a stronger
attachment.<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
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<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Carl<br>
<br>
On Tuesday, September 28, 2021, Mike M <<a
href="mailto:meulenms@gmx.com" moz-do-not-send="true">meulenms@gmx.com</a>>
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
<blockquote style="border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt">Thank
you for all the replies to help. The parts snapped
clean, so I thoroughly cleaned the 2 parts with
acetone and put it back together with JB Weld. I'll
use a light coating of RTV black to reinstall it after
48 hrs, and use light pressure, to re-attach it. Thank
you Mark for your generous offer! I'll let you know
how it goes.<br>
<br>
Regards,<br>
Mike M<o:p></o:p></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On 9/28/2021 4:38 PM, magreer67
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<blockquote style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Send me a picture of what you
need. I have a couple of those engines as basket
cases from a couple TB Horses that I have
repowered.<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Mark Greer<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
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<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:9.5pt;color:#575757">Sent
from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
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<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:black">--------
Original message --------<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:black">From:
Mike M <a href="mailto:meulenms@gmx.com"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">
<meulenms@gmx.com></a> <o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:black">Date:
9/27/21 7:33 PM (GMT-05:00) <o:p>
</o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:black">To:
Antique tractor email discussion group
<a href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true"><at@lists.antique-tractor.com></a>
<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:black">Subject:
[AT] OT- Troy-Bilt Horse <o:p>
</o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:black"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Hi all,<br>
I have a question about Troy Built tillers; I have a
'70's-80's Troy<br>
Bilt Horse tiller, well before they became MTD. I
was moving it in high<br>
gear, over some hard clay to a place I wanted to
till. Well, it hit the<br>
ground and took off like a bucking bronco. I started
to go after it but<br>
having had my share of injuries this year I just let
it go . It bounced<br>
and jumped all over the place, until it hit a tree,
and cracked the<br>
carburetor flange. The engine is a HH60 Tecumseh,
and all I need to<br>
repair it is a new carb. The problem is I cannot
find one with the<br>
plate, and tall screw that is riveted on to accept
the vertical air<br>
cleaner. Any help would be appreciated.<br>
<br>
Thanks,<br>
Mike M<br>
<br>
<br>
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