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<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">I've seen videos. I should have mentioned that we have auto drains on all tanks. It's a decent sized system. We're running a 100hp and a 50hp.<br></div><div><br></div>
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On Monday, September 13, 2021, 03:01:09 PM EDT, Stephen Offiler <soffiler@gmail.com> wrote:
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<div><div id="yiv6042317082"><div><div dir="ltr">I get that, and it sounds reasonable, but let me ask the next question: have you ever seen a tank fail due to rust?<div><br clear="none"></div><div>SO</div></div><br clear="none"><div class="yiv6042317082yqt8840110779" id="yiv6042317082yqt10660"><div class="yiv6042317082gmail_quote"><div class="yiv6042317082gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On Mon, Sep 13, 2021 at 2:53 PM Henry Miller <<a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:hank@millerfarm.com" target="_blank" href="mailto:hank@millerfarm.com">hank@millerfarm.com</a>> wrote:<br clear="none"></div><blockquote class="yiv6042317082gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;">I don't drain my tanks as religiously as I should. Too often it is turn the compressor on, fill a tire, turn it off, leave it for a month before I have the next tire to fill. Thus I really want water to not get into my tanks in the first place. I want it to collect someplace cheap and easy to replace: not the tank.<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
-- <br clear="none">
Henry Miller<br clear="none">
<a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:hank@millerfarm.com" target="_blank" href="mailto:hank@millerfarm.com">hank@millerfarm.com</a><br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
On Mon, Sep 13, 2021, at 13:22, Stephen Offiler wrote:<br clear="none">
> I am not arguing your point, but just observing that a cooler installed<br clear="none">
> between the pump and the tank is not something you see every day unless<br clear="none">
> it's a factory-built unit in the form of a fan-cooled radiator. These<br clear="none">
> don't have water drains, either. Why try to keep water out of the tank?<br clear="none">
> Reduced tank corrosion comes to mind; anything else? One problem with this<br clear="none">
> idea is that the air coming out of the pump is HOT. Whatever cooler you<br clear="none">
> install has to be rated for high temperature. I know I ran into this when<br clear="none">
> I was spec'ing the chiller I recently installed on my 5HP compressor at<br clear="none">
> work. The ones I looked at all generally had low input air temp rating;<br clear="none">
> around 140F was max, and some were 120F. I vaguely recall one rated for<br clear="none">
> 250F and the cost on that unit was easily double. Just curious.<br clear="none">
> <br clear="none">
> SO<br clear="none">
> <br clear="none">
> On Mon, Sep 13, 2021 at 12:48 PM Henry Miller <<a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:hank@millerfarm.com" target="_blank" href="mailto:hank@millerfarm.com">hank@millerfarm.com</a>> wrote:<br clear="none">
> <br clear="none">
> > If you are worried about water (and you are right to worry) put your<br clear="none">
> > compressor as far from where air will be used as possible, and use a big<br clear="none">
> > pipe close to the compressor. You want the air to move very slow near the<br clear="none">
> > compressor so as much water as possible drops out there. Make sure you<br clear="none">
> > properly take all the air off the top of your overhead pipe, and slope that<br clear="none">
> > pipe to a drain.<br clear="none">
> ><br clear="none">
> > If possible put a air cooler with a drain between your tank and the pump:<br clear="none">
> > keep the water out of the tank if possible.<br clear="none">
> ><br clear="none">
> > --<br clear="none">
> > Henry Miller<br clear="none">
> > <a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:hank@millerfarm.com" target="_blank" href="mailto:hank@millerfarm.com">hank@millerfarm.com</a><br clear="none">
> ><br clear="none">
> > On Mon, Sep 13, 2021, at 10:19, Spencer Yost wrote:<br clear="none">
> > > One of the reasons I have been thinking copper is because here in the<br clear="none">
> > > humid south, water in air lines is a problem. You can not paint without<br clear="none">
> > > a desiccant filter for example. Nothing worse than seeing water droplets<br clear="none">
> > > coming out with your paint (been there done that). One benefit I<br clear="none">
> > > thought copper would have would be to condense water quickly and<br clear="none">
> > > earlier in the run; therefore water vapor would be less of an issue at<br clear="none">
> > > the tool end(assuming I slant the lines to run back towards the<br clear="none">
> > > compressor) and my tool-end water filters wouldn't fill up so fast.<br clear="none">
> > ><br clear="none">
> > > Anyone with experience with copper find this to be true?<br clear="none">
> > ><br clear="none">
> > > Also, copper is less than $1 per foot more expensive(3.46/ft vs 2.69/ft)<br clear="none">
> > > so for a run that will be less than 100' worth of pipe so I decided to<br clear="none">
> > > not sweat (excuse the pun) the cost factor between black pipe and copper<br clear="none">
> > > and just go on the merits.<br clear="none">
> > ><br clear="none">
> > > While continuing to look around at various options and along the way I<br clear="none">
> > > saw 1-1/2" black pipe at Lowes with an oddly specific PSI rating:<br clear="none">
> > > 231PSI I'm beginning to think Brice might be right and they are using<br clear="none">
> > > steam rating....<br clear="none">
> > ><br clear="none">
> > ><br clear="none">
> > > Spencer<br clear="none">
> > ><br clear="none">
> > ><br clear="none">
> > ><br clear="none">
> > > On 9/13/21 9:55 AM, Stephen Offiler wrote:<br clear="none">
> > > > Brice reminded me of something. Now, it's been a while since I've put<br clear="none">
> > > > much thought into Schedule rating of pipe. Reviewing, the basic<br clear="none">
> > > > definition is: Schedule = Pressure/Stress. Example: Schedule 40<br clear="none">
> > > > pipe at 1200 psi would have stress of 30 ksi developed in the walls.<br clear="none">
> > > > That's why wall thickness increases with pipe diameter - larger<br clear="none">
> > > > diameter means larger internal surface area means higher force for a<br clear="none">
> > > > given pressure, so wall thickness is increased to fight the higher<br clear="none">
> > > > forces and keep stress in the wall constant. I pick the example<br clear="none">
> > > > above because Schedule 40 Class A pipe has a yield stress rating of 30<br clear="none">
> > > > ksi. (There is also a Class B which is somewhat stronger). At 175<br clear="none">
> > > > psi your factor of safety is almost 7, which is quite large. I'd<br clear="none">
> > > > sleep well with this number as small as 4 - in other words, 300psi.<br clear="none">
> > > > Of course there's additional considerations for the fittings and<br clear="none">
> > > > whatnot, but as long as it's Schedule 40, there's really nothing to<br clear="none">
> > > > worry about.<br clear="none">
> > > ><br clear="none">
> > > > That stuff at Lowe's claiming 150 psi.... I don't believe it. The<br clear="none">
> > > > people writing up the specs on their website are probably minimum-wage<br clear="none">
> > > > drones. I would get ahold of a chart showing wall thickness vs pipe<br clear="none">
> > > > diameter and measure the wall thickness right there in the store (yeah<br clear="none">
> > > > I do tend to travel with a caliper in my bag most of the time).<br clear="none">
> > > > Dimensions alone would confirm if this "150 psi" stuff is actually<br clear="none">
> > > > Schedule 40.<br clear="none">
> > > ><br clear="none">
> > > > I know you don't really want to use black iron pipe but I like I said<br clear="none">
> > > > Brice sort of reminded me of how all this pressure rating stuff<br clear="none">
> > > > works. Of all the options, black pipe is certainly the most<br clear="none">
> > > > old-school, antique-tractor appropriate. I'm not against the modern<br clear="none">
> > > > materials and I would also seriously consider Pex, but not PVC. I can<br clear="none">
> > > > solder copper way faster than I can screw together black pipe but<br clear="none">
> > > > copper is pretty darn pricey these days. In my own shop, the answer<br clear="none">
> > > > is: rubber hose. I've never graduated past the portable compressor<br clear="none">
> > > > to something big and stationary that lends itself to permanent<br clear="none">
> > plumbing.<br clear="none">
> > > ><br clear="none">
> > > > SO<br clear="none">
> > > ><br clear="none">
> > > ><br clear="none">
> > > ><br clear="none">
> > > ><br clear="none">
> > > ><br clear="none">
> > > ><br clear="none">
> > > > On Sat, Sep 11, 2021 at 11:43 AM Brice Adams <<a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:brice.adams@gmail.com" target="_blank" href="mailto:brice.adams@gmail.com">brice.adams@gmail.com</a>><br clear="none">
> > > > wrote:<br clear="none">
> > > ><br clear="none">
> > > > Spencer,<br clear="none">
> > > > Something tweaked my memory from plumbing the Huber about<br clear="none">
> > > > different pressure ratings for steam, air, and fluids with<br clear="none">
> > > > schedule 40 and 80 pipe. The 150 psi may be the steam rating and<br clear="none">
> > > > the air rating is 34 to 6 times higher.<br clear="none">
> > > > Brice<br clear="none">
> > > ><br clear="none">
> > > > On Sat, Sep 11, 2021 at 8:21 AM Ken Knierim<br clear="none">
> > > > <<a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:ken.knierim@gmail.com" target="_blank" href="mailto:ken.knierim@gmail.com">ken.knierim@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br clear="none">
> > > ><br clear="none">
> > > > Go copper if you're comfortable with sweating it together. I<br clear="none">
> > > > did that after trying PVC for awhile. Got some AZ sun on the<br clear="none">
> > > > PVC and it blew out a couple times with sharp little shards<br clear="none">
> > > > flying around (doesn't survive impact damage well). I like the<br clear="none">
> > > > sound of PEX but again, sunlight is abundant here.<br clear="none">
> > > > My $0.02<br clear="none">
> > > > Ken in AZ<br clear="none">
> > > ><br clear="none">
> > > > On Fri, Sep 10, 2021 at 6:43 PM Spencer Yost<br clear="none">
> > > > <<a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:spencer@rdfarms.com" target="_blank" href="mailto:spencer@rdfarms.com">spencer@rdfarms.com</a>> wrote:<br clear="none">
> > > ><br clear="none">
> > > > So I’m going to be making three new pipe runs from my air<br clear="none">
> > > > compressor. Previously I’ve just relied on hoses since the<br clear="none">
> > > > 50 foot hose will reach everywhere in my shop.<br clear="none">
> > > ><br clear="none">
> > > > It will consist of one long “trunk” run that will be<br clear="none">
> > > > nearly 40 feet, and then a few stub runs of anywhere from<br clear="none">
> > > > 5’ to 15’<br clear="none">
> > > ><br clear="none">
> > > > I was thinking about black pipe as that’s what I have used<br clear="none">
> > > > before. But I had no idea the common, affordable black<br clear="none">
> > > > pipe you find in hardware stores is only good to 150 psi.<br clear="none">
> > > > My compressor is two stage and is 175 psi:<br clear="none">
> > > ><br clear="none">
> > > > 3/4-in x 3-ft 150-PSI Black Iron Pipe<br clear="none">
> > > ><br clear="none">
> > <a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" target="_blank" href="https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southland-Pipe-3-4-in-x-3-ft-150-PSI-Black-Iron-Pipe/3371442">https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southland-Pipe-3-4-in-x-3-ft-150-PSI-Black-Iron-Pipe/3371442</a><br clear="none">
> > > ><br clear="none">
> > > > I guess I’m thinking about biting the bullet and going<br clear="none">
> > > > copper. I’d like to go with some of those really neat new<br clear="none">
> > > > aluminum systems but I could never afford that.<br clear="none">
> > > ><br clear="none">
> > > > What are y’all think about copper? I know 3/4” copper is<br clear="none">
> > > > good to about 1000 psi. It eliminates the rust problem<br clear="none">
> > > > that eventually befalls all black steel pipe systems;<br clear="none">
> > > > which is kind of a plus. As far as installation, I solder<br clear="none">
> > > > better than I cut threads :-)<br clear="none">
> > > ><br clear="none">
> > > ><br clear="none">
> > > ><br clear="none">
> > > > Spencer<br clear="none">
> > > ><br clear="none">
> > > ><br clear="none">
> > > > Sent from my iPhone<br clear="none">
> > > > _______________________________________________<br clear="none">
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> > > ><br clear="none">
> > > > _______________________________________________<br clear="none">
> > > > AT mailing list<br clear="none">
> > > > <a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:AT@lists.antique-tractor.com" target="_blank" href="mailto:AT@lists.antique-tractor.com">AT@lists.antique-tractor.com</a><br clear="none">
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> > > ><br clear="none">
> > > > _______________________________________________<br clear="none">
> > > > AT mailing list<br clear="none">
> > > > <a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:AT@lists.antique-tractor.com" target="_blank" href="mailto:AT@lists.antique-tractor.com">AT@lists.antique-tractor.com</a><br clear="none">
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> > > ><br clear="none">
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> > > > _______________________________________________<br clear="none">
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> > ><br clear="none">
> > ><br clear="none">
> > > --<br clear="none">
> > > Spencer Yost<br clear="none">
> > ><br clear="none">
> > > _______________________________________________<br clear="none">
> > > AT mailing list<br clear="none">
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> > ><br clear="none">
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