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It appears this operates in the same way.<br>
<br>
John<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/26/2021 2:58 PM, <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:deanvp@att.net">deanvp@att.net</a>
wrote:<br>
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<p class="MsoNormal">I am not familiar with the I/H Farmall
tractors electrical set up but on JD’s 20 and 30 series JD Two
Cylinders, 1956 to 1960, JD inserted a dropping resistor that
was bypassed during starting to give a full 12 V to the points
and then when the starter was released it dropped back to 6 V
to extend point life. But when things don’t make sense it
usually comes down to a bad connection somewhere. Starting
with
grounds.
<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">Dean VP<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Snohomish, WA 98290<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,
the creed of ignorance, and gospel of envy, its inherent
virtue is the equal sharing of misery."<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">..Winston Churchill...<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><b>From:</b> AT
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com"><at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com></a> <b>On Behalf
Of </b>John Hall<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, August 25, 2021 9:01 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com">at@lists.antique-tractor.com</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [AT] tractor electrical question<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt">There is a
wire tied in from the starter solenoid also. You would assume
a new OEM coil to be good but who knows. All I know is it acts
the same with both coils. I will note that the new coil had to
be rotated 180 in the bracket to get it to hook up. The power
is going in the plus side, just like schematic shows. Maybe
they just put it in wrong at factory?<br>
<br>
John<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">On 8/25/2021 11:52 PM, Jason wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">Generally most coils have a resistor
before them to lower the voltage so they don't burn up the
points. Some applications have a booster wire from the
small terminal on the starter solenoid. Since there is a
voltage drop when cranking, this booster wire temporarily
raises the voltage to help during starting. <o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">If everything else is fine. A coil
that fails as it warms up is a coil getting close, to
well, failing.<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">Jason<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">On Wed, Aug 25, 2021, 10:22 PM Howard
Pletcher <<a href="mailto:hrpletch@gmail.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">hrpletch@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif">Is
that the original coil?<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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style="font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif">I'm
not familiar with the 454, but in the truck world,
most coils are intended for 6V use. There is a
resistor wire in the harness that drops the
voltage while the current is flowing with the
points closed. But there are also coils intended
for 12V use with no resistor wire. If that is not
the original coil, perhaps you have the wrong one.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
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<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif">Since
it seems to work fine with 12V applied, I'd
probably run another wire from the ignition switch
to the coil to bypass any possible resistor wire.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif">Howard<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">On Wed, Aug 25, 2021 at 11:08 PM
John Hall <<a href="mailto:jtchall@nc.rr.com"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">jtchall@nc.rr.com</a>>
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><br>
If there is, I can't find it. Closes thing I have
found is the <br>
diode/rectifier for the alternator. Its inline and
is tied in on this <br>
particular "circuit" . Matter of fact, the side
opposite the alternator <br>
is where the fuel solenoid feeds from.<br>
<br>
John Hall<br>
<br>
<br>
On 8/25/2021 11:05 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:<br>
> Maybe there’s an external resistor?<br>
><br>
> Spencer<br>
><br>
> Sent from my iPhone<br>
><br>
>> On Aug 25, 2021, at 10:35 PM, John Hall
<<a href="mailto:jtchall@nc.rr.com"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">jtchall@nc.rr.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
>><br>
>> Got what I hope is a simple question. On
my IH 454 tractor, is the voltage going to the coil
a constant 12V? I'm having some issues with it
running bad when it gets hot (I've already replaced
everything but the plug wires). Found out today that
if I run a jumper wire from battery to the coil, the
problem goes away. Take it off problem comes back,
put it back it goes away, take it off, it comes
back. So I am tracing the wiring but this one isn't
simple, new enough there are tons of gauges, fuel
solenoids, safety switches, etc. Anyway, if I check
voltage at the coil, the fuel solenoid, and there is
one small terminal on starter solenoid that all read
12V if the switch is on. If I bump the engine over
slightly (I guess the pts are closing) then the coil
and starter drop to just under 6V, fuel solenoid
stays the same. So shouldn't there always be 12V at
the coil?<br>
>><br>
>> John Hall<br>
>>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><br clear="all">
<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">-- <o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">Howard<o:p></o:p></p>
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<pre>_______________________________________________<o:p></o:p></pre>
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