<div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">OL? You are using a digital voltmeter for this, right? I think it is saying you are OverLoading the 20V or whatever scale you have it set on.</div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif"><br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">Have you tried getting a reading when you first start it before it runs rough? You may still get an OL or perhaps not. This suggests to me you do not have a good connection from the block to the coil case which is how the high voltage circuit should be completed and you are getting voltage spikes finding their way back to the coil through other circuits and causing extra heating in the coil. Both of your coils may not be bad as suspected. Check and clean the mounting of the coil bracket to the engine and the contact of the bracket to the coil. It's not something I'd think of when doing maintenance, but now it seems like a possibility.</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Thu, Aug 26, 2021 at 8:08 PM John Hall <<a href="mailto:jtchall@nc.rr.com" target="_blank">jtchall@nc.rr.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div>
points, plugs, cap, rotor and coil are all new. I verified with my
50 year old parts book and it has the same part# for coil as what
online parts at Case is showing. The new coil has 12V on the
outside, but the bill had 6V. Box was sealed up, but it came from
overseas, so a lot of variables there<br>
<br>
Point gap was verified when I had the distributor off and plate out
so I could make sure weights were free and springs not broken.<br>
<br>
I had my voltage regulator with me yesterday. When I tried to check
at coil with engine running rough, it showed OL for whatever reason.
I've checked so much stuff lately that I'm not sure but I think I
got 6 and 12 volt readings depending on where the points were once I
shut the engine off. I tried checking the voltage with engine
running at the fuel solenoid for reference and it was floating all
over the place from 4 to 13.5V. This was observed with the engine
hot and running rough. With engine not running it holds steady a
little over 12. <br>
<br>
Last night I also found that the wire to the coil and the wire to
the R terminal on starter solenoid can read 6V (little less
actually) while the wire going to the fuel solenoid in the carb was
reading 12V.<br>
<br>
John Hall<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<div>On 8/26/2021 6:35 PM, Howard Pletcher
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">It's
not unheard of, particularly since many of those parts now
come from overseas. To me, swapping with another if you can
find something to swap with would be the easiest way to prove
or eliminate that as a possibility. </div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">Make
sure your points setting is close to spec and they are clean
as that would affect the ignition. Have you looked at your
plugs, not thinking that's the problem, but if they are fouled
or badly gapped, they could have an effect. You also might
run it until it heats up and needs the 12V to see if it still
shows 6V to the coil. If not, then it's somewhere else in the
circuit.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">Many
of the other things suggested have no connection with the
ignition circuit. </div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Thu, Aug 26, 2021 at 5:12
PM John Hall <<a href="mailto:jtchall@nc.rr.com" target="_blank">jtchall@nc.rr.com</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div> Howard, you are leaning toward new coil and old coil are
both bad?<br>
<br>
John Hall<br>
<br>
<div>On 8/26/2021 3:47 PM, Howard Pletcher wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">No, what he is
reporting is just what should be happening. With
the points open, no current is flowing through the
primary circuit and there is 12V at the + side of
the coil. When he bumped the starter and closed the
points, the current flowing through the resistor in
the primary circuit results in a voltage drop so
that there is now 6V on the coil as intended. </div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">The wire from
the starter to the coil does send 12V directly to
the coil, but this is only engaged while the starter
is cranking in order to produce a hotter spark for
starting and is not connected to 12V the rest of
the time.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">The fact the
coil seems to require 12V to its terminal when hot
points to an internal problem in the coil as
discussed by Dell in the Yesterday's Tractors
article.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">Howard</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Thu, Aug 26, 2021
at 2:53 PM Carl Szabelski <<a href="mailto:c.s.szabelski@gmail.com" target="_blank">c.s.szabelski@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"> By the way, I
believe it’s not the coil and is related to the
cranking motor. Especially since the voltage drops
when you bump it like you said. Something in the
motor may be partially shorted or corroded, causing
a voltage drop to the coil. The coil should always
see 12V whether or not there is a resistor, internal
or external. The resistor is essentially after the
coil winding and drops the voltage after the
winding, not before it. If the engine is running
fine when you directly connect 12V to the coil, the
coil is working like it should and is good.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Carl<br>
<br>
<br>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
<br>
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