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Yes, overload. If the voltage fluctuates everytime points open and
close, wouldn't it be impossible to get a meter reading with engine
running?<br>
<br>
Coil mounts to head. I had to use the same bracket to mount the new
coil (new bracket won't line up). I question do the coils really
need grounding? I mean they are completely covered in paint, never
seen anyone scuff all the paint off to make a good connection. Heck
I'd be willing to solder a ground wire to the case at this point. I
did check and the case on the coil did appear grounded by the meter<br>
<br>
Ohmed old and new coil, both read about the same--across the 2
terminals and from pos to output for cap wire.<br>
<br>
For giggles, I can try a couple other machines with similar style
coils to see if I can get a read on them that is consitent and not
overloaded with engine running.<br>
<br>
To further run some checks I unhooked the wire from the R terminal
of the starter solenoid. When I spun the engine over it shot up to
around 11V before the tractor cranked--I would assume it make it
to12 if I would have yanked the coil wire. That wire is actually 2
wires--one to the coil, the other is a supply--the supply was
reading 5-6 ish prior to cranking. I have yet to find a stand alone
resistor, so I am thinking there is one in the harness or a resistor
wire?<br>
<br>
It seems to me the system functions fine cold--supplies 6V to coil
and jumps to 12 with starter engaged. So wondering is the problem on
the distributor side. I picked up a new condenser today and swapped
it out. If no moments of revelation occur before tomorrow afternoon,
I'll go mow some more and see if condenser swap worked. If not, I'll
be armed with jumper wire and multi-meter.<br>
<br>
John<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/26/2021 9:09 PM, Howard Pletcher
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CANEFi4Zi_Qk1Of5uYgL9d9ObVqkR-HL9W+ZVfyXgsdBwhDmYDw@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">OL?
You are using a digital voltmeter for this, right? I think it
is saying you are OverLoading the 20V or whatever scale you
have it set on.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">Have
you tried getting a reading when you first start it before it
runs rough? You may still get an OL or perhaps not. This
suggests to me you do not have a good connection from the
block to the coil case which is how the high voltage circuit
should be completed and you are getting voltage spikes finding
their way back to the coil through other circuits and causing
extra heating in the coil. Both of your coils may not be bad
as suspected. Check and clean the mounting of the coil
bracket to the engine and the contact of the bracket to the
coil. It's not something I'd think of when doing maintenance,
but now it seems like a possibility.</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Thu, Aug 26, 2021 at 8:08
PM John Hall <<a href="mailto:jtchall@nc.rr.com"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">jtchall@nc.rr.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div> points, plugs, cap, rotor and coil are all new. I
verified with my 50 year old parts book and it has the same
part# for coil as what online parts at Case is showing. The
new coil has 12V on the outside, but the bill had 6V. Box
was sealed up, but it came from overseas, so a lot of
variables there<br>
<br>
Point gap was verified when I had the distributor off and
plate out so I could make sure weights were free and springs
not broken.<br>
<br>
I had my voltage regulator with me yesterday. When I tried
to check at coil with engine running rough, it showed OL for
whatever reason. I've checked so much stuff lately that I'm
not sure but I think I got 6 and 12 volt readings depending
on where the points were once I shut the engine off. I tried
checking the voltage with engine running at the fuel
solenoid for reference and it was floating all over the
place from 4 to 13.5V. This was observed with the engine hot
and running rough. With engine not running it holds steady a
little over 12. <br>
<br>
Last night I also found that the wire to the coil and the
wire to the R terminal on starter solenoid can read 6V
(little less actually) while the wire going to the fuel
solenoid in the carb was reading 12V.<br>
<br>
John Hall<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<div>On 8/26/2021 6:35 PM, Howard Pletcher wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">It's not unheard
of, particularly since many of those parts now come
from overseas. To me, swapping with another if you
can find something to swap with would be the easiest
way to prove or eliminate that as a possibility. </div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">Make sure your
points setting is close to spec and they are clean as
that would affect the ignition. Have you looked at
your plugs, not thinking that's the problem, but if
they are fouled or badly gapped, they could have an
effect. You also might run it until it heats up and
needs the 12V to see if it still shows 6V to the
coil. If not, then it's somewhere else in the
circuit.</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">Many of the
other things suggested have no connection with the
ignition circuit. </div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Thu, Aug 26, 2021
at 5:12 PM John Hall <<a
href="mailto:jtchall@nc.rr.com" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">jtchall@nc.rr.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px
0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div> Howard, you are leaning toward new coil and old
coil are both bad?<br>
<br>
John Hall<br>
<br>
<div>On 8/26/2021 3:47 PM, Howard Pletcher wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">No,
what he is reporting is just what should be
happening. With the points open, no current
is flowing through the primary circuit and
there is 12V at the + side of the coil.
When he bumped the starter and closed the
points, the current flowing through the
resistor in the primary circuit results in a
voltage drop so that there is now 6V on the
coil as intended. </div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">The
wire from the starter to the coil does send
12V directly to the coil, but this is only
engaged while the starter is cranking in
order to produce a hotter spark for starting
and is not connected to 12V the rest of the
time.</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">The
fact the coil seems to require 12V to its
terminal when hot points to an internal
problem in the coil as discussed by Dell in
the Yesterday's Tractors article.</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">Howard</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Thu, Aug
26, 2021 at 2:53 PM Carl Szabelski <<a
href="mailto:c.s.szabelski@gmail.com"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">c.s.szabelski@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote"
style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"> By the
way, I believe it’s not the coil and is
related to the cranking motor. Especially
since the voltage drops when you bump it
like you said. Something in the motor may be
partially shorted or corroded, causing a
voltage drop to the coil. The coil should
always see 12V whether or not there is a
resistor, internal or external. The resistor
is essentially after the coil winding and
drops the voltage after the winding, not
before it. If the engine is running fine
when you directly connect 12V to the coil,
the coil is working like it should and is
good.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Carl<br>
<br>
<br>
</div>
</blockquote>
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