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Howard, you are leaning toward new coil and old coil are both bad?<br>
<br>
John Hall<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/26/2021 3:47 PM, Howard Pletcher
wrote:<br>
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cite="mid:CANEFi4Y1VY0YY6NSyo24pMWdUQx-EzHmNktPOW6T44dW2JcHtg@mail.gmail.com">
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<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">No, what he is
reporting is just what should be happening. With the
points open, no current is flowing through the primary
circuit and there is 12V at the + side of the coil. When he
bumped the starter and closed the points, the current
flowing through the resistor in the primary circuit results
in a voltage drop so that there is now 6V on the coil as
intended. </div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">The wire from the
starter to the coil does send 12V directly to the coil, but
this is only engaged while the starter is cranking in order
to produce a hotter spark for starting and is not connected
to 12V the rest of the time.</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">The fact the coil
seems to require 12V to its terminal when hot points to an
internal problem in the coil as discussed by Dell in the
Yesterday's Tractors article.</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">Howard</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
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<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Thu, Aug 26, 2021 at 2:53
PM Carl Szabelski <<a
href="mailto:c.s.szabelski@gmail.com" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">c.s.szabelski@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"> By the way, I believe
it’s not the coil and is related to the cranking motor.
Especially since the voltage drops when you bump it like you
said. Something in the motor may be partially shorted or
corroded, causing a voltage drop to the coil. The coil
should always see 12V whether or not there is a resistor,
internal or external. The resistor is essentially after the
coil winding and drops the voltage after the winding, not
before it. If the engine is running fine when you directly
connect 12V to the coil, the coil is working like it should
and is good.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Carl<br>
<br>
<br>
</div>
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