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<p>This one is an Electrolux, but the model number crosses to
Frigidaire. Just like the last 2 that were in there. They ended
up being a Frigidaire... Probably heat is the problem. However,
I was wrong about the p0lacement on this one. According to the
parts manual, it is in the center console like top of the
refrigerator compartment. It also has a thermostat on the coils.
We have had some things get ice in the refrigerator compartment
the last week or so. I am leaning toward the timer being iced up
this time... I have one ordered and also a thermostat. Locally
they are over $100, but Ebay has a new one for $11. <br>
Cecil</p>
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 6/7/2021 3:49 PM, Brad Loomis wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Heat is probably the culprit. And they aren't a
high level of precision. A cheap clock motor, plastic gears and
levers opening and closing contacts. And some manufacturers are
better than others. I have a sheet of plastic made for moving
appliances to save the flooring, but if you put some dish soap
on the floor that will help things slide and not rip the floor.
On mine I can take a 1/4" ratcheting box and jack up the front,
raise the levelers so the wheels actually work. That saves the
floor. KitchenAid, i.e. Whirlpool. I'm underwhelmed with Korean
refrigeration. Lots of doo dads and buzzers, but the guts...And
parts? Whereas a Whirlpool product, many name brands, are all
over the place. </div>
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<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Jun 7, 2021 at 11:48
AM Cecil Bearden <<a href="mailto:crbearden@copper.net"
moz-do-not-send="true">crbearden@copper.net</a>> wrote:<br>
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<p>Brad, this one is just like the last one that I gave up
on. It is behind the toe kick, but at the very back of
the cabinet. Where I have to pull the cabinet out to get
to. The last time with the other one, I ended up with a
tear in the linoleum. This is in a recess next to the
main walkway in the kitchen. When it is pulled out, I
have to go outside to the other door to get to the front
of the cabinet.. I will be so glad when I finish
remodeling my house so I can get back in it full time and
let someone else have this thing.... Why would 3
refrigerators have the defrost go bad in the same
place????<br>
Cecil<br>
</p>
<div>On 6/7/2021 9:13 AM, Brad Loomis wrote:<br>
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<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="auto">As a refrigeration mechanic, not much
domestic stuff, I can tell you defrost timers are
relatively cheap and easy to replace. Usually a 1/4" nut
driver and maybe needle nose to pull the terminals.
Behind the toe kick on most. They are in a dusty
environment and not totally sealed so...
<div dir="auto">If you like any other pointers let me
know. Could be the limit, element, or the drain
heater. </div>
<div dir="auto">Brad</div>
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<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Jun 7, 2021,
6:58 AM Cecil Bearden <<a
href="mailto:crbearden@copper.net" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">crbearden@copper.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
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0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
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<p>We have replaced 3 refrigerators in the last 8
years. They keep freezing up on the coils. This
is in my dad's old Double wide, a really dificult
place to pull the refrig out of. First one just
quit cooling and we replaced it with one we had
from 15 years prior. within a year it froze up
and the defrost timer had burned out. We just
took the bottom of the freezer out and thawed it
and put back together. Did this for 2 years, then
bought another refrigerator from Home Depot a year
ago and it is now freezing up. Looks like defrost
timer is burned up again... WTH???</p>
<p>Cecil<br>
</p>
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