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<div data-externalstyle="false" dir="ltr" style="font-family: 'Calibri', 'Segoe UI', 'Meiryo', 'Microsoft YaHei UI', 'Microsoft JhengHei UI', 'Malgun Gothic', 'sans-serif';font-size:12pt;"><div>If you can wrap the area, they did make a tailpipe repair tape that you wrapped around a vehicle tailpipe leak then the heat of the exhust fused it down, don’t know if they still make it or not.<br></div><div data-signatureblock="true"><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div></div><div style="padding-top: 5px; border-top-color: rgb(229, 229, 229); border-top-width: 1px; border-top-style: solid;"><div><font face=" 'Calibri', 'Segoe UI', 'Meiryo', 'Microsoft YaHei UI', 'Microsoft JhengHei UI', 'Malgun Gothic', 'sans-serif'" style='line-height: 15pt; letter-spacing: 0.02em; font-family: "Calibri", "Segoe UI", "Meiryo", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft JhengHei UI", "Malgun Gothic", "sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt;'><b>From:</b> <a href="mailto:mr.jebecker@gmail.com" target="_parent">Jim Becker</a><br><b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, December 15, 2020 9:56 AM<br><b>To:</b> <a href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com" target="_parent">Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group</a></font></div></div><div><br></div><div dir="ltr">
<div dir="ltr">
<div style='color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Calibri"; font-size: 12pt;'>
<div>A temporary patch? Wrap a tin can around it and hold it with wire or
a hose clamp. It is one of the few options that won’t melt.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Jim Becker</div>
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<div><b>From:</b> <a>k7jdj@aol.com</a> </div>
<div><b>Sent:</b> Monday, December 14, 2020 10:55 PM</div>
<div><b>To:</b> <a>at@lists.antique-tractor.com</a> </div>
<div><b>Subject:</b> Re: [AT] Update: '47 B - First starting
attempt</div></div></div>
<div> </div></div>
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<div><font size="2">Might find something at Auto parts store for mending exhaust
leaks. I used some on a LARGE manifold leak and it worked for a short
time.</font></div>
<div><font size="2"><br></font></div>
<div><font size="2">Gary</font></div>
<div><font size="2"><br></font></div>
<div><font size="2">Renton, WA</font><br></div>
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<div style="color: black; font-family: arial,helvetica; font-size: 10pt;">-----Original
Message-----<br>From: STEVE ALLEN <steveallen855@centurytel.net><br>To:
at@lists.antique-tractor.com<br>Sent: Mon, Dec 14, 2020 1:34 pm<br>Subject: Re:
[AT] Update: '47 B - First starting attempt<br><br>
<div dir="ltr">I appreciate all the feedback on the manifold hole,
gentlemen!<br></div>
<div dir="ltr"> </div>
<div dir="ltr">Many of the suggestions appear to me to depend on having the
manifold off--as Dean notes, that is a dicey proposition. If I can do
something about it temporarily without removing the manifold, it would be a
blessing.<br></div>
<div dir="ltr"> </div>
<div dir="ltr">Two notes: yes, the hole is on the exhaust side, and, no, a
little extra noise wouldn't hurt anything for now ;-)<br></div>
<div dir="ltr"> </div>
<div dir="ltr">The hole is on the inside of the branch. Looking down from
above, think of the casting as almost a W, with the center upward point being
the intake and the two outer branches the exhaust (the exhaust pip actually
connecting to the right one). The hole is on the inside edge of the left
branch, maybe two and a half inches or a little more between it and the center
(intake) branch. That's not a lot of room to work, and, although I have an
acetylene torch, I have little experience with it and none at all welding.
<br></div>
<div dir="ltr"> </div>
<div dir="ltr">I think, when we have a chance and some gooder weather, we might
try cleaning it up as well as we can and apply the JB Weld, maybe over some lead
pushed in place. <br></div>
<div dir="ltr"> </div>
<div dir="ltr">If necessary, we can pull the hood and tank off and move the fan
shaft out of the way. I see some used manifolds for $70 - $90; mew repops
from $150 to $220 on eBay, but haven't looked at Sharps or Steiner's yet.
If I have to pull the manifold, I will replace it and not try to fix it:
the cost is too little to risk it. I would like to avoid having to pull
the head given the additional gasket cost (ouch!) and the fact that the tractor
has maybe 10 hours on the current head gasket (the repair done nigh on 30 years
ago, I guess). <br></div>
<div dir="ltr"> </div>
<div dir="ltr">Need is not pressing. The '51 A is running well, and the '49
needs its new flywheel during the first window of dry we get. I can hunt
parts and experiment with cheap-'n-easy fixes for now. <br></div>
<div dir="ltr"> </div>
<div dir="ltr">Really, this tractor is now my son's--his grandpa would've wanted
that--so he can cogitate on how he wants to proceed. And I am more than
willing to spend HIS money :-D<br></div>
<div dir="ltr"> </div>
<div dir="ltr">Oh, and, to answer the other question, I am sure the water in the
crank case is condensation. The tractor is covered, and there was no hint
of green in it. I insist upon cracking the drain plugs on the tractors a
couple times/year, and we always get a few drops or more out of most, and we can
account for the coolant (heck, the '49 hasn't lost a drop in a LOT of
years).<br></div>
<div dir="ltr"> </div>
<div dir="ltr">The "original" Steve Allen<br></div>
<div dir="ltr">_______________________________________________<br></div>
<div dir="ltr">AT mailing list<br></div>
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