<div dir="auto">Steve, I would call Loctite and they can recommend something to hold a metal patch on with heat. I had a project a few years ago where we had to create special type fonts, etch them on magnesium and then mount to aluminum, and then cut out the individual characters. They recommended a product that with some pressure, [ maybe for you a c clamp], and it worked fabulously! Cut them out, less than 1/4 inch square .153" mounted to 3/4" high aluminum. I put one in a vise, hung the end out and tried to break it off with a 3 pound hammer. I succeeded in just bending the aluminum, piece would not come off.<div dir="auto">I dont remember how to call them, but I'm sure you can find it online. I think it was something like '800- loctite', but not sure.</div><div dir="auto">Good luck,</div><div dir="auto">Dave</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Dec 14, 2020, 4:34 PM STEVE ALLEN <<a href="mailto:steveallen855@centurytel.net">steveallen855@centurytel.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">I appreciate all the feedback on the manifold hole, gentlemen!<br>
<br>
Many of the suggestions appear to me to depend on having the manifold off--as Dean notes, that is a dicey proposition. If I can do something about it temporarily without removing the manifold, it would be a blessing.<br>
<br>
Two notes: yes, the hole is on the exhaust side, and, no, a little extra noise wouldn't hurt anything for now ;-)<br>
<br>
The hole is on the inside of the branch. Looking down from above, think of the casting as almost a W, with the center upward point being the intake and the two outer branches the exhaust (the exhaust pip actually connecting to the right one). The hole is on the inside edge of the left branch, maybe two and a half inches or a little more between it and the center (intake) branch. That's not a lot of room to work, and, although I have an acetylene torch, I have little experience with it and none at all welding. <br>
<br>
I think, when we have a chance and some gooder weather, we might try cleaning it up as well as we can and apply the JB Weld, maybe over some lead pushed in place. <br>
<br>
If necessary, we can pull the hood and tank off and move the fan shaft out of the way. I see some used manifolds for $70 - $90; mew repops from $150 to $220 on eBay, but haven't looked at Sharps or Steiner's yet. If I have to pull the manifold, I will replace it and not try to fix it: the cost is too little to risk it. I would like to avoid having to pull the head given the additional gasket cost (ouch!) and the fact that the tractor has maybe 10 hours on the current head gasket (the repair done nigh on 30 years ago, I guess). <br>
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Need is not pressing. The '51 A is running well, and the '49 needs its new flywheel during the first window of dry we get. I can hunt parts and experiment with cheap-'n-easy fixes for now. <br>
<br>
Really, this tractor is now my son's--his grandpa would've wanted that--so he can cogitate on how he wants to proceed. And I am more than willing to spend HIS money :-D<br>
<br>
Oh, and, to answer the other question, I am sure the water in the crank case is condensation. The tractor is covered, and there was no hint of green in it. I insist upon cracking the drain plugs on the tractors a couple times/year, and we always get a few drops or more out of most, and we can account for the coolant (heck, the '49 hasn't lost a drop in a LOT of years).<br>
<br>
The "original" Steve Allen<br>
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