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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple style='word-wrap:break-word'><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal>Brice,<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Thanks for the tip. That is similar to a previous suggestion here on ATIS. Hopefully I will be able to start attacking these nuts tomorrow.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Dean VP<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Apache Junction, AZ<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=MsoNormal><b>From:</b> AT <at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com> <b>On Behalf Of </b>Brice Adams<br><b>Sent:</b> Friday, November 27, 2020 8:15 PM<br><b>To:</b> Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group <at@lists.antique-tractor.com><br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [AT] 1935 JD B Testing progress.<o:p></o:p></p></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><div><p class=MsoNormal>Dean,<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal>After 3 H and 2 B manifold replacements the best technique I've found for trying to save the studs is to cut off one side of the nut as close to the threads as I can with a Dremel cutoff tool then either grind or file as close to the stud threads as I can.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal>Repeatedly heat and cool the remainder of the nut until I can get it to turn with vice grips.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal>Brice<o:p></o:p></p></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><div><p class=MsoNormal>On Fri, Nov 27, 2020 at 8:53 PM Dean VP <<a href="mailto:deanvp@att.net">deanvp@att.net</a>> wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote style='border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0in'><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt'>I have one of those Craftsman stud removal tools that has a hole through two parallel flanges with a gripper type cam sandwiched in between, You use a 1/2" breaker bar on the cam and supposedly it will give you the grip that is needed to turn the stud out. Of coursed mine in the shop in WA and I'm 1600 miles from it. I need to check if my friend has one of those tools. He has more Craftsman tools than God. A good pipe Wrench will get close to doing the same thing. My plan is to not try to remove the studs unless they HAVE to be replaced. My first attack it to try to get the 4 nuts off of the 4 studs w/o twisting off the studs. Then slide the manifold up four inches and off. Haven't been able to work on it the last two days but hope to get back at it tomorrow. <br><br>Dean VP<br>Apache Junction, AZ<o:p></o:p></p></blockquote></div></div></div></body></html>