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Dean and especially Carl,</div>
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You have both provided some very good tips/points through this list of like-minded folks. I just wanted to take a moment to thank you both and extend Happy Thanksgiving wishes to all!! Have a safe and wonderful day!!<br>
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<div><font style="" face="Comic Sans MS">Mitch</font><font style="" face="Comic Sans MS"> Daly<br>
</font><font style="" face="Comic Sans MS">md31043@msn.com</font><br>
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<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font style="font-size:11pt" face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000"><b>From:</b> AT <at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com> on behalf of szabelski@wildblue.net <szabelski@wildblue.net><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Thursday, November 26, 2020 10:17 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group <at@lists.antique-tractor.com><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [AT] 1935 JD B Testing progress.</font>
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<div class="PlainText">Dean,<br>
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If you find that you have to remove/replace the stud, there are stud removal tools that grab the stud and allow you to turn the stud out. The one that I have looks sort of like a large socket with a locking nut, and different interchangeable grips for different
size studs. The grips are tapered so that they grip tight when you lock them down. The tighter you lock them down, the tighter they grip. You just thread it on, lock it and turn the stud out. It’s a design my father used from over 70 years ago when he did
appliance repair. It doesn’t damage the threads.<br>
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Some of the newer versions are like the jaws on a drill press and they just grip the stud tight, resulting in some thread damage. If you don’t have one you can try jamming two nuts, back to back, near the base of the stud, and using a wrench on the bottom nut
to try and turn the stud out. The key thing is to grab the stud near the bottom at the block so that any torque you apply is to the section of the stud in the block, and you’re not twisting the exposed section of the stud, possibly snapping it in two.
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Before you start trying to turn the stud out, thread two nuts unto the stud so that the nuts sit a couple threads above the end of the stud. Then give it a couple of hits with a hammer, but not so hard that you bend the stud.<br>
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Good luck.<br>
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Carl<br>
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----- Original Message -----<br>
From: szabelski@wildblue.net<br>
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group <at@lists.antique-tractor.com><br>
Sent: Thu, 26 Nov 2020 09:44:30 -0500 (EST)<br>
Subject: Re: [AT] 1935 JD B Testing progress.<br>
<br>
Dean, you got it, that’s what I tried to say. Sometimes the nut will split in two and you can use a punch the pop both pieces off of the stud. Sometimes it doesn’t split in two completely but you’ll be able to turn the nut off of the stud. Either way it will
be loose enough to remove it without damaging the stud threads. Once you get the nut off you may want to run a die on the stud and clean up the threads a little. One thing that you have to be careful about is drilling at an angle that results in the drill
hitting the stud threads on the bottom of the nut. If you think you’ve drilled the hole at a angle that might damage the threads you can always start over on a different face of the nut.<br>
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Carl<br>
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----- Original Message -----<br>
From: deanvp <deanvp@att.net><br>
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group <at@lists.antique-tractor.com><br>
Sent: Wed, 25 Nov 2020 21:45:13 -0500 (EST)<br>
Subject: Re: [AT] 1935 JD B Testing progress.<br>
<br>
Carl, thanks for that tip. I'm not sure I fully understand the procedure. So I will try to play back what I think you said. Starting with a small drill bit drill the side of the nut about 1/2 way between the edge of the nut and the threads. A little closer
to the edge of the nut. The use progressively larger bits until running into the threads. Then the nut should be easier to split with a chisel.Sent from my Galaxy<br>
-------- Original message --------From: szabelski@wildblue.net Date: 11/25/20 7:21 PM (GMT-07:00) To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group <at@lists.antique-tractor.com> Subject: Re: [AT] 1935 JD B Testing progress. Dean, If you run into an issue where
you can’t get the nut buster onto the nut, try drilling the nut off. Start with your smallest drill and drill a hole about half way though one side of the nut, drilling a little closer to the side of the nut then the threads. Keep increasing drill size until
you get close to the threads or until you break out of the side of the nut. Then you should be able to split the nut with a chisel and not a lot of hammering. The nut may not fully split, but you should be able to turn it off with little effort.Carl----- Original
Message -----From: Dean VP <deanvp@att.net>To: 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group' <at@lists.antique-tractor.com>Sent: Wed, 25 Nov 2020 20:46:09 -0500 (EST)Subject: Re: [AT] 1935 JD B Testing progress.I think I found the real problem on my 1935 JD B today.
I applied 30 psi ofair pressure to the carburetor inlet side of the manifold and air wasrushing out the exhaust pipe with all valves closed. Apparently I have arust out in the manifold or a blown gasket between the input and exhaustside of the manifold.
Started pulling the head today and have everythingloose except the water hoses. Will soon have everything off to see ifanything is visible. I was hoping I wouldn't have to remove the manifold.The manifold studs will not come out without twisting off. I'm
going to tryto use a nut buster on the top nuts and see if I can get the nuts offwithout breaking the studs. Then try to remove the manifold. Was hoping Iwasn't going to have to do this but I'm glad I found the problem. Willprobably be looking for a new
reproduction manifold or good used one.Leon??? Real progress today.Dean VPApache Junction, AZ-----Original Message-----From: AT <at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of Dean VPSent: Tuesday, November 24, 2020 9:35 PMTo: 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion
Group' <at@lists.antique-tractor.com>Subject: Re: [AT] 1935 Testing progress.The later JD All Fuel JD B's, which had higher HP, had a compression of70psi. Haven't found a reference for the earlier JD B"s. But it surelywouldn't be higher than 70. The difference
between cylinders of 7 1/2psi ispushing the limits of acceptability. These tests were with the tractorcold. The compression test is supposed to be run when the tractor is arunning temperature. The next test to run is the manifold leakage test. ThenI probably
will install the magneto and carburetor and get it running so Ican do a high temperature compression test. I may just pull the tappetcover and see if the lash is set right on the valves first. Now that I havethe right tools to do the testing I Can make some
progress. Dean VPApache Junction, AZ-----Original Message-----From: AT <at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of Dean VPSent: Tuesday, November 24, 2020 7:43 PMTo: 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group' <at@lists.antique-tractor.com>Subject: [AT]
1935 Testing progress.Was able to get the 1935 JD B out of storage and since I had the carburetorand magneto removed during the winter storage we just pulled it to newlocation for the winter. Since we were pull moving anyway I asked my friendto pull me in
gear about the distance of the two blocks with the plugs outto get the oil pressure built up for the compression pending compressiontesting. Then hooked the compassion tester and 7/8" to 154 MM adapter upand had him pull me a 100 feet or so in gear and tested
compression on eachcylinder. Thew results were not as expected. Got about 62 1/2" psi on theleft cylinder and about 55 psi on the right cylinder. I expected a muchlarger difference between the two. Not sure what it should be but sonereason I expect 70
psi but I don't remember where that came from. But the7 1/2psi difference by itself tell me I need to tear into this tractor., Idon't think. Tomorrow I can do the manifold air pressure test. If I cancomplete that. He results o f that test will determine
what I test next,Dean VPSnohomish, WA 98290"Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and gospel ofenvy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery."..Winston Churchill..._______________________________________________AT mailing
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