<HTML><BODY><p style="margin-top: 0px;" dir="ltr">Like Cecil, I am a 30w guy too. I am not fond of multi grade oils either. The fact that it defaults to the lower number when it breaks down, or if it doesn't get hot enough. I want to lubricate my engines with oil, not polymers.</p>
<p dir="ltr">My '93 F250 with the 5.8 calls for 10-30 which I have always used but recently it has been using a but of oil at 260,000 miles so I am changing it to 30w too. I had bad luck with 10-30 once in a GM 350 in a 2 ton truck. I had always run 30w in it and changed to 10-30, it developed a rod knock shortly thereafter.</p>
<p dir="ltr">It rarely gets below freezing here.</p>
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<p dir="ltr">--<br> Sent from myMail for Android</p>
</div>Saturday, 15 August 2020, 07:18PM -07:00 from Cecil Bearden <a href="mailto:crbearden@copper.net">crbearden@copper.net</a>:<br><br><blockquote id="mail-app-auto-quote" style="border-left:1px solid #FC2C38; margin:0px 0px 0px 10px; padding:0px 0px 0px 10px;" cite="15975442820000397867">
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<div id="style_15975442820000397867_BODY">John I don't know what part of the country you are in, but here in hot <br>
and humid Oklahoma, I use straight wt oils in everything built before <br>
2000, and multigrade for the rest. I studied this a ferw years ago and <br>
what I learned was that multi grade is oil that has the wt of the lower <br>
number with viscosity improversto make it test to the upper wt when <br>
hot. However, our older engines don't run as hot as these later <br>
models. The difference between 170 degrees and 200 is a lot when using <br>
multigrade oils. I changed the oil in my Ingersoll 250 cfm compressor <br>
w/ 3/71 Detroit. I used 15W50 Mystic, I have used this brand for <br>
years. It was ok in the winter, but when it was 90degrees outside, It <br>
started knocking at idle, I couldn't hear it when running at load, so no <br>
telling how much damage it may have done. I replaced it with 40wt and 2 <br>
qts of Lucas oil and it sounds ok now. Still starts in winter too. I <br>
think that if the water temp runs at 170, then straight wt oils are to <br>
be used. If ti is hotter than multigrade. Here in the hot south, 10W <br>
oils are just too thin to start with..<br>
Cecil<br>
<br>
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On <span class="js-phone-number">8/15/2020 11</span>:57 AM, John Hall wrote:<br>
> What this group needs (in my opinion) is a good farm equipment <br>
> discussion.<br>
> Engine Oil--but wait, this isn't your ordinary oil discussion!!! Long <br>
> story short, I have a fleet of old gas powered working FARM <br>
> equipment--not talking about lawn equipment. We have always ran big <br>
> name brand oil. I switched from Exxon Super HDII about 3-4 years ago <br>
> because it was getting really hard to source. I switched over to <br>
> Chevron Dello 400 (both are 30W). The Dello is formulated for diesels, <br>
> but supposedly works in older gas engines. I now have 2 engines that <br>
> drink oil when being worked hard. My Farmall M can drop 2-3 qts in a <br>
> couple hours of pulling a cultimulcher--yet you don't really notice it <br>
> smoking. It does foul plugs. That work is a very heavy load. Also I <br>
> have a 3300 Deere combine that will drop a qt or so every truckload of <br>
> corn. Now I've only had this combine about 8 years and the oil <br>
> consumption just started about 3 years ago--I swear some days it is <br>
> worse than others. I really wonder if its the oil I'm using. I have on <br>
> hand some CaseIH low-ash oil I run in lawnmowers--considering putting <br>
> it in the combine for this fall. Supposedly the same stuff IH has been <br>
> selling for 40+ years. The cost is about $3-4 more a quart, so an <br>
> extra $25 to change oil. For the record, the rest of the gas powered <br>
> fleet doesn't run hard/long enough to notice a problem. The combine is <br>
> such a gas hog, can't help but wonder if its a fuel issue causing <br>
> dilution.<br>
><br>
> What you guys think, worth a shot?<br>
><br>
> John Hall<br>
><br>
><br>
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