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<p>I had an Onan generator that had a bunch of fine rust in the tank
and it would plug up the fuel bowl every time it was moved. We
had been using it during the winter and had to mix a gallon of
methanol with a tank of gas to keep the carburetor from icing up
at about 3 am. When I drained the tank it was completely dry
from the Methanol. I put a pound of 1/4 inch nuts in the tank and
jacked up a tractor wheel tied the tank to the wheel and let it
idle in gear for about 2 hours. I then took a piece of 1/2 inch
PVC and taped it to the shop vac and sucked out the tank. I also
put a short length of whip air hose in the tank and used the air
to get it to flop around and loosen the rest of the crud up. Then
sucked it out again... I have not had a problem with it since.
That was right after the 2001 Ice storm...<br>
Cecil<br>
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/10/2020 10:47 PM, deanvp wrote:<br>
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<div><font face="sans-serif">Relative to the tank, take it off
and throw in the bunch a big bunch of nuts, bunch, meaning 10
or more. Square headed nuts work the best. Tie the tank on to
something that rotates and run it that way for at least a
couple of hours letting the nuts beat up the inside of the
tank to remove the rusty scale. Then remove the nuts and the
loose scale. Then purchase some tank etching solution and
sealer. That is the only way you are going to stop the loose
scale from continuing to come loose.</font></div>
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<div><font face="sans-serif">The points reading 0.5 ohms closed
and 0.7 ohms open. Is a serious problem. When the points are
closed they should read the same as what your ohm meter reads
when shorting the two test leads together. 0.000 ohms would be
perfect. When the points are open the reading should be many
megohms. O.7 ohms is essentially still closed.</font></div>
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<div style="font-size:85%;color:#575757" dir="auto">Sent from my
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<div>-------- Original message --------</div>
<div>From: STEVE ALLEN <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:steveallen855@centurytel.net"><steveallen855@centurytel.net></a> </div>
<div>Date: 5/10/20 5:00 PM (GMT-08:00) </div>
<div>To: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com">at@lists.antique-tractor.com</a> </div>
<div>Subject: Re: [AT] Project Updates '49 A, '51 A, and '47 B
(STEVE ALLEN) </div>
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OK, two quick updates that I hope will generate more ideas.<br>
<br>
'51 A:<br>
We're finding a lot of loose, rust scale in the tank. When I say
a "lot," I don't mean the bottom is covered with it, But,
dangling a flashlight inside, I saw what appeared to be some
"stuff" around the outlet. So we used magnets on extendable rods,
and pulled out a couple ounces of scale. Finally, the magnet came
out clean. Ran the tractor. More starvation. Put the magnet
back in, more loads of scale came out. <br>
<br>
The bottom of the take looks pretty clean, but there are small,
dark patches that I think represent some more or at least places
where the coating (if any) is worn. did these tanks come with a
coating? Anyway. the fuel flow seems much better as we reduce the
amount of scale in there, but we have more to go. <br>
<br>
Is there a better cleaning process? I seem to remember someone
suggesting a powerful magnet near the outlet to catch such crud.
Or am I remembering something else??<br>
<br>
'49 A:<br>
No spar4k from the mag, either using the plug or, per the manual,
a wire with an 1/8" gap to ground. No spark either one. I
checked continuity on the points per Dean. My meter read .5 Ohms
with the points closed and .7 Ohms with them open (separated by a
thin piece of cardboard). I seem to have good continuity on the
cap; visual inspection shows no cracks, but will have to check
that further. No continuity between the interior contacts and the
center contact, at least. No kill switch or other possible ground
through the cap or the case. Rotor clean and checked for proper
continuity: center button to contact has continuity; no
continuity between center button and the metal plate inside which
touches the shaft.<br>
<br>
Carl: I don't quite get what you mean by wiring with a coil
replacing the mag. Could you explain more?<br>
<br>
Dean: used some very fine sand paper on the points to clean
them. .5 Ohms with them closed; .7 Ohms with them open (separated
by cardboard). <br>
<br>
I have another mag, but it hasn't been used in many years; a new
cap is about $60+ shipped; would prefer not to order unless I am
sure the cap is bad. Do the Ohm readings on the points suggest a
problem?<br>
<br>
Thanks again, all!<br>
<br>
The "original" Steve Allen<br>
Doing my part to keep the list active.<br>
<br>
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