<html><head><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div dir="auto">Is it possible the generator is simply magnetized backwards?</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div id="composer_signature" dir="auto"><div style="font-size:85%;color:#575757" dir="auto">Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.</div></div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div><br></div><div style="font-size:100%;color:#000000" dir="auto"><!-- originalMessage --><div>-------- Original message --------</div><div>From: drgerber@bright.net </div><div>Date: 5/1/20 4:27 PM (GMT-08:00) </div><div>To: 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group' <at@lists.antique-tractor.com> </div><div>Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: Covid-19 Quarantine tractor project
(drgerber@bright.net) </div><div><br></div></div>Thanks Steve. That is exactly what I have now. It is different from the<br>original. The resistor is in a different location, as are the screw<br>connectors. They are also marked weird. I would think ignition would be<br>abbreviated IGN; they are marked ING; ??? I will pull it all apart and<br>start over tomorrow. Battery drained completely overnight. Mine uses a cut<br>out, and it is not marked according to the schematic either. <br><br>Dave in Ohio<br><br>-----Original Message-----<br>From: AT <at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of STEVE ALLEN<br>Sent: Friday, May 1, 2020 4:21 PM<br>To: at@lists.antique-tractor.com<br>Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: Covid-19 Quarantine tractor project<br>(drgerber@bright.net)<br><br>Dave,<br><br>I think Sharps has your ignition switch: <br><br>http://www.oldjdforyou.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=oldjd4u&P<br>roduct_Code=SHAM357T&Category_Code=5456<br>OR<br>http://www.oldjdforyou.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=oldjd4u&P<br>roduct_Code=SHAA5071R&Category_Code=5456<br>One if for a voltage regulator system, the other for a cutout.<br><br>I can't sweat it isn't Chinese, but it is worth looking into. <br><br>The "original" Steve Allen<br><br>----- Original Message -----<br>Message: 2<br>Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 21:24:49 -0400<br>From: <drgerber@bright.net><br>To: "'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group'"<br> <at@lists.antique-tractor.com><br>Subject: Re: [AT] Covid-19 Quarantine tractor project<br>Message-ID: <004f01d61f57$4f0ac510$ed204f30$@bright.net><br>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"<br><br>I had an MT that wouldn't start. Cranked but no fire. No juice at the<br>coil. Took off the sheet metal, battery, gas tank, and removed the wiring<br>harness. Wasn't too bad, but had some farmer engineering. Had a Chinese<br>made swith, with strange marks, and nothing like the one shown in the<br>service manual. Had 2(two) inline fuses ??? Had a couple of wires with no<br>destination up in the dash. I took the wire harness to the bench, and<br>removed all the crimped bayonet clips, and soldered on the circle clips.<br>Tried to figure out the markings on the switch. Hooked the wires up by my<br>best guess. New plugs, new points, new condenser, had the coil tested and<br>it was good, new wires, new cap, new dust shield, Napa could not get a rotor<br>so I used the old one. Put all but the sheet metal back together. Fired<br>right up. HOWEVER; AMP gauge appears to read backwards; slight discharge on<br>ignition, larger discharge on the ignition w high charge position, and very<br>strong discharge with lights and<br> high charge position. <br><br>Can I just change the wires to the amp gauge to solve the problem?<br><br>Dave Gerber, OH <br><br>_______________________________________________<br>AT mailing list<br>AT@lists.antique-tractor.com<br>http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com<br><br>_______________________________________________<br>AT mailing list<br>AT@lists.antique-tractor.com<br>http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com<br></body></html>