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<p>I've had the throttle yanked closed on my gas (push) lawnmower,
by trees and brush, more times than I can count. Most of the time,
it's just a momentary blip; occasionally if I'm in heavy cutting
at the same time, it'll kill it.</p>
<p>Have also had tree limbs and brush pull the throttle lever back
on JD A & H more than once. I *did* learn to duck and keep my
head out of trouble when mowing fencerows along the woods. <br>
</p>
<p>I think I'd actually PAY to have a chance to run that
annoying-to-turn-corners JD 9W sickle-bar mower for a day. For
some reason, I always enjoyed mowing hay & pasture. Other than
dodging groundhog holes and rocks, I could let my mind wander and
enjoy the outdoors.<br>
</p>
<p>Mark J<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/1/2020 6:41 AM, Stephen Offiler
wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr">As an offroad cyclist, I can add two stories to
this. (1) sticks love to catch in the lower loop of the chain,
travel from there into the spokes, and then get pulled with the
whole momentum of the rider into the derailleur, which snaps, or
mangles, or shears various special mechanisms provided for that
purpose, and usually some combination of all of the above which
complicates trailside repairs. (2) tree branches, brush, or
small saplings trailside can sometimes reach over and actuate
your front brake, resulting in a remarkably sudden encounter
with the ground in front of you.
<div><br>
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<div>SO</div>
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<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed, Apr 29, 2020 at 6:24
PM Chuck Bealke <<a href="mailto:chuck.tractor@gmail.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">chuck.tractor@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
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<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Spencer,
you lucked out on that one - should be a much easier fix than
transmission work. Sticks do like to get between chain and
sprocket off road. Had more fun on tractors with tree limbs
grabbing throttle or gov. linkage when you brushed up against
them. Have also come too close to being been removed from high
Farmall seats by a limb or two. At least there was the bar
between lights to hang onto IF you were quick and lucky.<br>
<br>
> On Apr 29, 2020, at 4:33 PM, Spencer Yost <<a
href="mailto:spencer@rdfarms.com" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">spencer@rdfarms.com</a>> wrote:<br>
> <br>
> Also if you filled the tank all the way you might have
had enough head pressure.<br>
> <br>
> As I mentioned previously, my COVID-19 motorcycle project
has been going very well. I’ve been taking it on test runs in
big circles that are never far from the house. Been running
great. However I felt vindicated today on that conservative
strategy. Shortly into the run I couldn’t down shift :-(<br>
> <br>
> I managed to get down shifted to third after a lot of
attempts and trying. With third I was able to get rolling
again without smoking the clutch. Came back home after
rolling through stop signs since there was no way I could get
this thing down shifted further.<br>
> <br>
> Pulled into the garage to give it a quick inspection and
found the root cause:<br>
> <br>
> That stick went all the way over a bracket, Between the
shift linkage crankcase/transmission housing and out another
bracket and wedged tight. You can see the other end near the
muffler. I never saw the stick on the road and don’t
remember hitting one. I don’t think I could have drove that
stick in by hand. I had to break the stick to get it out.
<br>
> <br>
> <image0.jpeg><br>
> <br>
> <br>
> Sent from my iPhone<br>
> <br>
>> On Apr 27, 2020, at 8:08 PM, Jim Becker <<a
href="mailto:mr.jebecker@gmail.com" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">mr.jebecker@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br>
>> <br>
>> The problem was the loop. If the tank had been
several feet above the loop, there would have been enough head
pressure to overcome the loop. Gas just isn't that good at
flowing uphill.<br>
>> <br>
>> Jim Becker<br>
>> <br>
>> -----Original Message----- From: STEVE ALLEN<br>
>> Sent: Monday, April 27, 2020 3:09 PM<br>
>> To: <a href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">at@lists.antique-tractor.com</a><br>
>> Subject: Re: [AT] '49 A and '51 A Updates and a New
Start: the '47 B (deanvp)<br>
>> <br>
>> Thanks to all for the heat tip. We'll try it. the
only one still in is the one on the side of the stem inside
the float bowl.<br>
>> <br>
>> The loop doesn't make sense to me, either, unless the
gas just couldn't make it's way uphill for part of the loop.
There are two variables in the equation--the loop and the
sediment bowl--that were changed. I am not going to bother
going backward to try to figure it out though ;-)<br>
>> <br>
>> The "original" Steve Allen<br>
>> <br>
>> ----- Original Message -----<br>
>> Message: 4<br>
>> Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2020 19:25:59 -0700<br>
>> From: deanvp <<a href="mailto:deanvp@att.net"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">deanvp@att.net</a>><br>
>> <br>
>> <br>
>> The loop problem does not compute with previous data
but it now works.? To get brass screws out just heat them
until they start charging colors. Let them cool and you will
be able to remove them with your fingers.Sent from my Verizon,
Samsung Galaxy Tablet<br>
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