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<p>I have a 2003 F-150 4wd that had a broke cross member and a
clicking that sounded like the air conditioner clutch. At this
time I was having work done as my back was killing me. Mechanic
replaced A/C clutch and it still clicked. He said drive it till
it quits. Last time I ever used him.... Took it to Transmission
shop and $600 later it had a new flex plate. Had to weld up cross
member under transmission tail. 6 months later had to rebuild
transmission. $2300 and I pulled a trailer about 150 miles and
when I got back the flex plate clicking again. It was during
Christmas of 2018. Trans guy was on vacation. It still sits
here as I had t o use it to feed cattle with and have not had time
to make appt. o get flex plate replaced. F-150 torque converters
expand if they get hot and break the flex plate. <br>
</p>
<p>Cecil<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 4/6/2020 1:05 PM, Ken Knierim wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CACLRkAJ+tBOwo71QkH_Nj7T6Lfgz2Rp9YUrahwGioiF_PDEVXw@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">Really reaching a bit here... I had a persistent
rattling noise I chased in my Blazer. It made enough racket that
the spark retard system would kick the timing back. Tried all
kinds of things; kept thinking it was a rod or something. I
finally got an engine to upgrade from the 305 to a 383 (stroker
350). When I tore it apart, I found the bolts on the torque
converter to the flex plate had slipped and were rattling. Had
to replace the flexplate to fix it but the noise sounded in the
engine and wasn't.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Yours sounds like a particular cylinder from the video but
is it possible there's something loose in the bell housing?</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Ken in AZ</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 10:40
AM Dave Maynard <<a href="mailto:dave@themaplehillfarm.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">dave@themaplehillfarm.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="auto">Actually, did not check length of connecting
rod and its clearance from head at TDC. But it's not
traveling to close to the head as there would be damage
showing. Just have this new concern about the wrong rod
being put in by mistake, but that would have been short, not
long.
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">Dave</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Apr 6, 2020, 1:01
PM Mike M <<a href="mailto:meulenms@gmx.com"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">meulenms@gmx.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div bgcolor="#FFFFFF"> When you had it apart, did you
check all the piston,ring and bearing clearances?<br>
<br>
Mike M<br>
<br>
<br>
<div>On 4/6/2020 11:35 AM, Dave Maynard wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="auto">No sleeves in this engine. Someone had
this engine apart before and #5 had a new piston and
rod and bearings. The seller said it was his
father's tractor since new and never been
apart....he lied! There was more RTV on oil pan than
you could imagine and obviously that piston and rod
and bearings had been replaced and I thought they
had been chasing the noise. Unless there was some
other reason, but dont know.
<div dir="auto"> My friend and mechanic help has
a Jacobson mower he's is rebuilding that has a 4
cylinder version of this motor that appears
identical except the number of cyl's. He found the
rod to be the same except it a tweak shorter by an
almost immeasurable amount, maybe .005 or .010.
Part number is almost the same except last digit
and now I'm wondering if that could be someone's
mistake. Would shorter rod cause preignition? By
the way, there is no part number on the rods so
they would have to be accurately measured.</div>
<div dir="auto"> It's going to be a bit before I
can get this back apart again, but hoping to have
this fixed in time to plow.</div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">Dave</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Apr 6,
2020, 9:08 AM Cecil Bearden <<a
href="mailto:crbearden@copper.net"
rel="noreferrer" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">crbearden@copper.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px
0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
<p>That was one of my thoughts, but my
experience has been that the liner movement
was a double "thud" once on down stroke and
once on upstroke. <br>
Cecil<br>
</p>
<div>On 4/6/2020 1:12 AM, <a
href="mailto:k7jdj@aol.com" rel="noreferrer
noreferrer" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">k7jdj@aol.com</a>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div style="color:black;font:10pt
Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">
<div> <font size="2">Cylinder liner loose.
Don't know if this engine even has
cylinder liners if it does and that
liner is moving you would get click. Did
you look carefully at the head when you
had it off and look for any sign of head
distress?</font></div>
<div><font size="2">I would do a compression
check as well.</font></div>
<div><font size="2"><br>
</font></div>
<div><font size="2">Gary</font></div>
<div><font size="2"><br>
</font></div>
<div><font size="2">Renton, WA.</font><br>
</div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div
style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----Original
Message-----<br>
From: Roger Moffat <a
href="mailto:rogerkiwi@gmail.com"
rel="noreferrer noreferrer"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true"><rogerkiwi@gmail.com></a><br>
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group
<a
href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com"
rel="noreferrer noreferrer"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true"><at@lists.antique-tractor.com></a><br>
Sent: Sun, Apr 5, 2020 7:43 pm<br>
Subject: Re: [AT] Kubota M5700 noise<br>
<br>
<div
id="gmail-m_5572200372103490139m_2085109996553918962m_-2421004768206050369yiv0933957868">
<div><br clear="none">
<div><br clear="none">
<blockquote type="cite">
<div
id="gmail-m_5572200372103490139m_2085109996553918962m_-2421004768206050369yiv0933957868yqtfd88006">
<div>On Apr 5, 2020, at 9:59 PM,
Dave Maynard <<a
rel="noopener noreferrer
noreferrer noreferrer"
shape="rect"
href="mailto:dave@themaplehillfarm.com"
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">dave@themaplehillfarm.com</a>>
wrote:</div>
<br clear="none">
<div><span
style="font-family:Helvetica;font-size:12px;font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;letter-spacing:normal;text-indent:0px;text-transform:none;white-space:normal;word-spacing:0px;text-decoration:none;float:none;display:inline">Have
cracked injector lines one
at a time, and it gets
quieter on #5</span></div>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
<br clear="none">
<div>But only on #5?</div>
<div><br clear="none">
</div>
<div>When you crack the others the
engine misses, but the noise
remains?</div>
<div><br clear="none">
</div>
<div>I wonder if something about
cylinder 5 is somehow different so
that the compression is higher, and
so it’s igniting (pre-igniting) too
much before top dead centre in just
that cylinder?</div>
<div><br clear="none">
</div>
<div>Eg #5 piston slightly higher than
the other 4?</div>
<div><br clear="none">
</div>
<div>Roger</div>
</div>
</div>
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