<div style="color:black;font: 12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Thanks all for the interest in this thread. I have a version of the tool in the link below, and for those that wondered in my earlier post, it also shows the countersink. I have a larger version of the rivet setting tool also. I have places where the holes require larger rivets than this tool uses, thus the added need for larger countersinks, that is where the HF bits came into play. The third hand reference was primarily directed at the relining of a service brake band for a Deere BR tractor. Essentially, it is a flexible metal band about 1.25 inches wide that fits around an approx. 5.5 inch drum that turns from the transmission. The lining I purchased is fairly stiff, and I was just trying to think how I was going to hold the lining in place, drill it, rivet it, etc., on the inside of the circle... trying to keep the lining square with the band, and then keeping the upper portion of the circle out of the way of the punch, etc. A lot of good ideas have come forth, I think one of you mentioned using little bolts to help hold things in place, guess the best thing for me to do is to just start on it.
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<div>Thanks again, John in Ferndale. <br>
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<div style="font-family:helvetica,arial;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Mark Greer <magreer67@gmail.com><br>
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group <at@lists.antique-tractor.com><br>
Sent: Tue, Mar 10, 2020 6:13 am<br>
Subject: Re: [AT] Rivets and rivet countersink<br>
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<div>Amazon link for the tool.<br clear="none"></div>
<div><a rel="noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/MACs-Auto-Parts-28-68184-Riveting/dp/B01BSZCMGK">https://www.amazon.com/MACs-Auto-Parts-28-68184-Riveting/dp/B01BSZCMGK</a></div>
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<div class="yiv8954196543gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On Tue, Mar 10, 2020 at 3:29 AM <<a rel="noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:deanvp@att.net" target="_blank" href="mailto:deanvp@att.net">deanvp@att.net</a>> wrote:<br clear="none"></div>
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<div class="yiv8954196543MsoNormal"><span style="color:windowtext;">Anyone interested in this rivet tool Amazon has this tool for $18 something with free freight. <u></u><u></u></span></div>
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<div class="yiv8954196543MsoNormal"><span style="color:windowtext;">Dean VP<u></u><u></u></span></div>
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<div class="yiv8954196543MsoNormal"><b><span style="color:windowtext;">From:</span></b><span style="color:windowtext;"> AT <<a rel="noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com" target="_blank" href="mailto:at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com">at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com</a>> <b>On Behalf Of </b>Cecil Bearden<br clear="none"><b>Sent:</b> Monday, March 9, 2020 9:06 AM<br clear="none"><b>To:</b> <a rel="noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com" target="_blank" href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com">at@lists.antique-tractor.com</a><br clear="none"><b>Subject:</b> Re: [AT] Rivets and rivet countersink<u></u><u></u></span></div>
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<div>Yo might take a look at this <a rel="noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" target="_blank" href="https://www.ecklers.com/brake-shoe-lining-riveting-tool-removes-and-installs-47-68184-1.html">https://www.ecklers.com/brake-shoe-lining-riveting-tool-removes-and-installs-47-68184-1.html</a><u></u><u></u></div>
<div>Cecil<u></u><u></u></div>
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<div class="yiv8954196543MsoNormal">On 3/9/2020 9:05 AM, <a rel="noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:jdnut@aol.com" target="_blank" href="mailto:jdnut@aol.com">jdnut@aol.com</a> wrote:<u></u><u></u></div>
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<div class="yiv8954196543MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12pt;">A bit of an update on this, since I think I started this thread. Thanks for all that responded. <u></u><u></u></span></div>
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<div class="yiv8954196543MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12pt;">In looking at some of the antique car sites.... it looks to me like the Pliobond HT-30 adhesive available from McMaster for about $46 per quart is probably a reasonable choice to bond the linings to the brake shoes. The drawback is that it needs to be cured for 30 minutes at 300 degrees. Given that there are places where it can't be sent... I suspect there are fumes involved, thus not for home kitchen use. <u></u><u></u></span></div>
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<div class="yiv8954196543MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12pt;">Some of the car people mentioned using JB Weld, .... but due to the lower melting point compared to the Pliobond, most of the people thought it was a safety hazard in cars. Supposedly, the JB Weld can stand 500 degrees F, with short transients to 600 degrees. In my tractor usage, it is not like I am using my brakes down a long steep highway hill. <u></u><u></u></span></div>
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<div class="yiv8954196543MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12pt;">I have been doing some removal of brakes from part of my herd, and I have quite a bit of brake lining work ahead. For the most part, I am planning on doing the combination of adhesive (probably JB Weld) and rivets. For the linings that I have to drill and countersink the holes, I followed the advice of one of the respondents, and purchased a set of brad point bits from HF, along with some of the little circular stops that can be put on the bits. I need to file the cutters on the outside of the bits flat with the rest of the bit, but overall I felt pretty good about the HF purchase. McMaster also looks to be a decent place to buy rivets. I figure the adhesive will help hold things in place better than vice grips when doing the drilling and countersinking. I pretty much work by myself, this is a job that another pair of hands might be useful.<u></u><u></u></span></div>
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<div class="yiv8954196543MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12pt;">If I have a measure of success, I will send along some pictures.<u></u><u></u></span></div>
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<div class="yiv8954196543MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12pt;">Thanks again, take care, <u></u><u></u></span></div>
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<div class="yiv8954196543MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12pt;">John Maxwell, Ferndale CA <u></u><u></u></span></div>
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<div class="yiv8954196543MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12pt;"><span style="font-size:10pt;">-----Original Message-----<br clear="none">From: Indiana Robinson <a rel="noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:robinson46176@gmail.com" target="_blank" href="mailto:robinson46176@gmail.com"><robinson46176@gmail.com></a><br clear="none">To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group <a rel="noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com" target="_blank" href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com"><at@lists.antique-tractor.com></a><br clear="none">Sent: Mon, Mar 2, 2020 3:49 pm<br clear="none">Subject: Re: [AT] Rivets and rivet countersink<u></u><u></u></span></div>
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<div class="yiv8954196543MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10pt;">I Googled brake shoe adhesive and got a boat load of stuff. I suspect that a lot of auto parts places have it on hand, especially someplace like NAPA stock it or can at least order it. One site for Raybestos says it has it in quart cans. <u></u><u></u></span></div>
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<div class="yiv8954196543MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10pt;">A combination of adhesive and rivets would probably be a good move.<u></u><u></u></span></div>
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<div class="yiv8954196543MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10pt;">On Mon, Mar 2, 2020 at 9:57 AM James Peck <<a rel="noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:jamesgpeck@hotmail.com" target="_blank" href="mailto:jamesgpeck@hotmail.com">jamesgpeck@hotmail.com</a>> wrote:<u></u><u></u></span></div>
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<div class="yiv8954196543MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10pt;">I had a contact who had retired from the former Detroit axle facility of chrysler. He made the point that that facility had an extremely wide range of manufacturing processes, including bonding brake linings to shoes. <br clear="none"><br clear="none">Cecil Bearden AT List member, Oklahoma farmer, and Professional Engineer (<a rel="noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:crbearden@copper.net" target="_blank" href="mailto:crbearden@copper.net">crbearden@copper.net</a>); Just an afterthought. Most brake shoes are bonded. A heat curing glue is used to glue the shoe to the lining. If you can find the glue the rivets would hold the lining on until the glue would set. I have a brake shoe oven, bought long ago at a Chrysler dealership that started out as a blacksmith shop in the late 1800's. However, the glue can was empty and no label.<br clear="none"><br clear="none">_______________________________________________<br clear="none">AT mailing list<br clear="none"><a rel="noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:AT@lists.antique-tractor.com" target="_blank" href="mailto:AT@lists.antique-tractor.com">AT@lists.antique-tractor.com</a><br clear="none"><a rel="noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" target="_blank" href="http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com">http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com</a><u></u><u></u></span></div>
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<div class="yiv8954196543MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12pt;"><span style="font-size:10pt;">-- <br clear="none"><br clear="none">Francis Robinson<br clear="none">aka "farmer"<br clear="none">Central Indiana USA<br clear="none"><a rel="noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:robinson46176@gmail.com" target="_blank" href="mailto:robinson46176@gmail.com">robinson46176@gmail.com</a><br clear="none"><br clear="none"><br clear="none"><br clear="none"><br clear="none"><br clear="none"><br clear="none"><br clear="none"><u></u><u></u></span></div>
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