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<p>I looked at some of those videos. However, mine is the HD series
and an LTZ. Those videos show a bumper that has a center chrome
section and outer sections that are painted, maybe plastic. I
also have the one with the plastic fascia that was earlier called
an air dam. Alldata DIy shows taking the bumper off. The
professional computer program a mechanic friend of mine has at the
shop where he works says this bumper setup requires taking the
bumper off and the lower part of the grill is bolted on. When it
warms up, I will try again. Right now the wind is at 30mph and
the temp is 33degrees. I have one faucet froze up for cattle
water and hope maybe that it will warm up a few degrees to thaw
out....<br>
Cecil<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 1/16/2020 11:05 AM, Jim Becker
wrote:<br>
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<div>My truck is an ‘04 Silverado. Changing the bulbs is
easy. You pull a pin then the whole light assembly
lifts/wiggles out to where you can reach the back side. I
found it hard to believe they made THAT BIG of a step
backwards in the redesign. So I looked at a couple youtube
videos on how to change a bulb in a 2011 Silverado. If you
google it, you can find plenty of them. Nobody needed a
4-post lift to do it. Here is one of them:</div>
<div><a title="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GgSlGAVP3_M"
href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GgSlGAVP3_M"
moz-do-not-send="true">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GgSlGAVP3_M</a></div>
<div>The grille is held with some screws a the top and few
spring clips at the bottom (reached behind the grille from
the top). The headlamp assembly is then held by 3 bolts, 2
on top and one you reach through the wheel well after
pulling the inner fender back.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>If you are just changing the bulbs, not replacing the
assembly, none of that is required. You just reach the
bulbs from the back. The passenger side requires removing
the air cleaner. The driver side may require removing the
battery. The video didn’t say to remove it, but showed it
removed. (maybe to be able to get pictures?).</div>
<div> </div>
<div>One video had a truck with a grille guard that drew no
comments in the video. Maybe an added aftermarket cow
catcher or bulldozer blade would add complications. If so,
it is hardly the truck’s fault.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Sometimes a task is just difficult because the person
doing it makes it difficult.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Jim Becker</div>
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<div style="BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<div style="font-color: black"><b>From:</b> <a
title="soffiler@gmail.com" moz-do-not-send="true">Stephen
Offiler</a> </div>
<div><b>Sent:</b> Thursday, January 16, 2020 4:14 AM</div>
<div><b>To:</b> <a title="at@lists.antique-tractor.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">Antique Tractor Email
Discussion Group</a> </div>
<div><b>Subject:</b> Re: [AT] tractor hauler a pain to
install headlights.</div>
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<div> </div>
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<div dir="ltr">Mostly it's because they design for minimum
component cost plus minimum assembly labor cost, period.
That's what management tells them to do, whether or not
they grew up with greasy fingernails and rebuild engines
on weekends, or if they live in their parents' basement
and play video games the other 16 hours of the day.
<div> </div>
<div>SO</div>
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<div class="gmail_quote">
<div class="gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On Wed, Jan 15, 2020 at
11:38 PM Cecil Bearden <<a moz-do-not-send="true">crbearden@copper.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
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BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; MARGIN: 0px 0px
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<p>There is less than a 1/4 in between the bumper and
the grill. If there was another 1/4in, I could slip
a 1/4in universal socket with a long extension and
get the grill out. Part of this is due to the cad
programs. The other part is very few engineers have
any clue as to how to repair the vehicle they are
designing... I guess it could be attributed to the
absence of high school shop classes........ When I
get the barn cleaned out and my 4post lift in there,
I will get it raised up and change the lights.<br>
</p>
<p>Cecil</p>
<p> </p>
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