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<p>My 2003 TS110 NH had the same problem. I wired around it. It
also had a hydraulic filter sensor that failed going to the field
once. I lost 10 gallons of special fluid at $160 and had to
remove the wheel to get to the sensor that cost about $50. All
to tell me that I needed to change the filter.<br>
Cecil<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/27/2019 12:10 AM, Richard Walker
wrote:<br>
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cite="mid:2619e7d3-a681-05e5-9923-38860e091f7d@pobox.com">
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<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:4c51a06b-84ee-d130-15fc-df0dd99b61d8@basicisp.net"><font
face="Arial">The point of all this is that the weak link in
the newer vehicles is the electronics. They apparently do not
understand "worst case design". <br>
</font> <font face="Arial"><br>
Phil in TX </font></blockquote>
<font face="Arial"> </font>
<p><font face="Arial"><br>
</font> </p>
<font face="Arial"> </font>
<p><font face="Arial">Amen. </font><font face="Arial"><font
face="Arial">Recently g</font>ot a call for help from my
neighbor that his 2007 New Holland 4WD diesel tractor was
dead. A 5-amp fuse would continually blow, even with the key
switch off.</font></p>
<p><font face="Arial">He and his BIL had done some basic testing
with no luck. As his wife quipped, now THREE idiots will be
working on the problem instead of two!</font></p>
<font face="Arial"> </font>
<p><font face="Arial">Luckily the owner's manual had a wiring
diagram. I methodically started at square one, battery
condition. Then grounds and connectors, safety switches,
relays, the key switch, etc. Checked glow plug bus and fuel
shutoff coil for any shorts to ground. Finally the problem
narrowed down to a plug-in module termed the "Safety
Controller". With it unplugged, the fuse was fine. When
plugged in, the fuse immediately blew. Encapsulated black
box, no clue what it contained so way to test for an internal
short.</font></p>
<font face="Arial"> </font>
<p><font face="Arial">Since a new module was over $300 from the NH
dealer and not returnable (electrical component), all three of
us agreed it would be wisest to trailer the tractor into the
dealer to have them double check our diagnosis. We guessed
under an hour of mechanic's labor to confirm our diagnosis and
plug in a new controller. That way the job would be
warrantied. My neighbor related to the service manager all
the troubleshooting tests we'd done and how the problem seemed
to be the controller.<br>
</font> </p>
<font face="Arial"> </font>
<p><font face="Arial">Two weeks later, my neighbor trailered his
tractor back home along with a bill for just under $1,000.
$325 of it was for a new controller, the remainder labor for
mechanic's "testing". ???? My neighbor bluntly asked the
service department manager if we'd just bought a new
controller and plugged it in ourselves if that would have
fixed the problem. After some hemming and hawing, the
manager's answer was yes. <br>
</font> </p>
<font face="Arial"> </font>
<p><font face="Arial">A daisy chain of safety switches, plus maybe
one relay, would accomplish the same end result as that
"Safety Controller" module. Basically the engine won't start
if you've done something dumb like leave it in gear or with
the PTO engaged. Like how '50's to 70's era tractors were
sensibly designed.<br>
</font> </p>
<font face="Arial"> </font>
<p><font face="Arial">- Richard in OR<br>
</font></p>
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