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I try to buy off road gasoline for all my 2 cycle stuff. It is a bit
spendy, but it makes for a nice smooth runner. I would have thought
that the manufactures would have figured out how to make ethanol
proof parts for 2 strokes by now, it's only the rubber and vinyl,
and diaphragms that are effected. shouldn't be too hard. I don't
think it should affect the bearings. <br>
<br>
Mike M<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/30/2019 3:14 PM, Cecil Bearden
wrote:<br>
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<p>I have 3 Poulan 18in pro series saws. Bought on sale at
Tractor Supply. My Mexican friends used them to cut out 1/4
mile of hackberry and Cedar trees grown in a fence. I had 6
chains that I kept sharp. I stayed busy sharpening chains. Ran
2 of the saws for 3 days 8 hrs / day hard. I can still pull
those saws off the shelf, gas them up and in 3 pulls they are
running and ready to go. I have a Stihl top handle and an Echo
that I keep for personal use, but the go-to saws are the
Poulan. I had 3 survey crews running a few years back. We had
stihl, Echo, Poulan and Red Max saws. Those Cheap Poulan Saws
just kept on running. I think the 2 biggest problems with a
chain saw is a sharp chain and keeping the carburetor dry.
Never use ethanol gas, use only the highest grade non ethanol.
and run the carb dry if it is going to set for more than a week.<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Cecil</div>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix"><br>
</div>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/30/2019 2:00 PM, magreer67
wrote:<br>
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<div dir="auto">Wow! I run chain saws quite a bit and my
experience is nothing like that. I cut 8-10 cords of firewood
a year plus another 3-5 full days of cutting to maintain a 155
acre wood lot and some logging roads. Some of that cutting
ends up as logs I drag out to have sawed into lumber and the
rest just gets moved off the logging roads and nature
eventually reclaims it. I mostly use commercial grade Stihl
saws and they never let me down. Buy once, cry once. I have an
026 Stihl (18") that was my Grandpa's firewood saw. Also have
an 009L (14") that gets used for trimming and days when I'm
cutting grapevines all day, an MS260 (18"), an 038 Super
(24"), and an 046 Magnum (32") I occasionally drag out if I
need to cut something big. The MS260 is the one I use most.
Somewhere I still have an 028 Wood Boss that was my first saw.
I got it half worn out from a co-worker about 30 years ago and
ran it for a long time. A wrist pin retainer clip let loose
about 10 years ago and locked it up. I have another piston and
big bore cylinder for it but need to find a new ring set and
put it back together one day. </div>
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<div style="font-size:85%;color:#575757" dir="auto">Sent from
my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone</div>
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<div style="font-size:100%;color:#000000" dir="auto"><!-- originalMessage -->
<div>-------- Original message --------</div>
<div>From: Jim Becker <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:mr.jebecker@gmail.com" moz-do-not-send="true"><mr.jebecker@gmail.com></a>
</div>
<div>Date: 10/30/19 1:05 PM (GMT-05:00) </div>
<div>To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group <a
class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com"
moz-do-not-send="true"><at@lists.antique-tractor.com></a>
</div>
<div>Subject: Re: [AT] New Question </div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
You got it half right with "chain". My vote goes for chain
saw. They are <br>
heavy, noisy, dangerous, the exhaust is usually blowing back on
you, and <br>
they throw saw dust everywhere. It was almost guaranteed they
would have <br>
some sort of starting/running issue on every job. Besides all
that, they <br>
are impossible to run left-handed. I know, some of you are
going to say "My <br>
Xyz brand saw is great." Fine if you had good luck with one.
But there has <br>
been somebody to say how great nearly every brand of miserable
saw I have <br>
been around is. Maybe some are just less terrible.<br>
<br>
I was glad we finally cut down every black locust tree on the
farm and had <br>
to start buying fence posts.<br>
<br>
Jim Becker<br>
<br>
-----Original Message----- <br>
From: Spencer Yost<br>
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2019 11:38 AM<br>
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group<br>
Subject: Re: [AT] New Question<br>
<br>
Chain harrow. Used it during reseeding a hay field and it was
great. <br>
Intended to use it in established pastures based on advice from
a good <br>
friend that raised cattle. Turned out to be less than useful
and that chore <br>
seemed to be a fuel burner without benefits.<br>
Still have it though....<br>
<br>
Spencer<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPhone<br>
<br>
> On Oct 30, 2019, at 11:13 AM, <a
class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:szabelski@wildblue.net" moz-do-not-send="true">szabelski@wildblue.net</a>
wrote:<br>
><br>
> We don’t have a really large garden, but we never had an
issue using <br>
> spring tooth harrows like you indicate.<br>
><br>
> I have three sets that I would gang together, two side by
side, and the <br>
> third one centered behind them. Pulled them with our 50
Cub. I got them <br>
> free, along with some other free implements when I
purchased our Cub.<br>
><br>
> I would set them for a shallow cut and make my first pass.
Then I would <br>
> set them about half way and make a second pass. Then a
third pass with <br>
> them set all the way down. I would drag them in multiple
directions to <br>
> break up the clay as much as possible.<br>
><br>
> I no longer use them since I started to amend the soil and
went out and <br>
> brought a three point rototiller that I put on the 42 H.<br>
><br>
> We have semi heavy to heavy clay in our area, but it never
clogged the <br>
> rototiller to the point where I had to stop and clean it
out. The <br>
> rototiller will have some clay packed in the housing, but I
just clean it <br>
> out when I’m done.<br>
><br>
> ----- Original Message -----<br>
> From: Greg Hass <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:ghass@m3isp.com" moz-do-not-send="true"><ghass@m3isp.com></a><br>
> To: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">at@lists.antique-tractor.com</a><br>
> Sent: Tue, 29 Oct 2019 23:05:47 -0400 (EDT)<br>
> Subject: [AT] New Question<br>
><br>
> Have been tossing this around for quite a while and would
like list<br>
> opinions from those who have farmed or been around the
farm. What<br>
> machines or implements are you glad to see disappear or be
used much<br>
> less than before? While I could list several the one that
stands out in<br>
> my mind by far is the spring tooth harrow. While still
being used some,<br>
> and while they do a real good job of leveling, they were
also a real<br>
> pain in the a$$. Growing up into my 20's thats all we had
and all they<br>
> did was plug. We had probably the worst brand ever made, a
Case<br>
> harrow. It had 2 runners between every section and if it
saw a<br>
> cornstalk 50 feet away it would start plugging before you
got there. In<br>
> either corn ground or sod the results were the same. We
always worked<br>
> our fields what we called double kitty corner. In a 20 acre
field, we<br>
> would have to stop at all four corners and unplug the
harrow by hand. We<br>
> used a IH Super C and 3 section harrow (8 foot) and if not
plowing we<br>
> had a four section we pulled with an IH 350. In later years
we bought an<br>
> IH 401 harrow and 3 section equaled 12 feet and pulled it
with an IH<br>
> 504. We though we had the world by the tail as it plugged
much less but<br>
> that was soon to end. That harrow did not have replaceable
ends; the<br>
> next years model did, but my dad being stupidly cheap would
not get new<br>
> teeth but cut an extra notch for the handle allowing it to
dig deeper<br>
> but with the tooth being shorter, cut the clearance making
it plug as<br>
> bad as the old Case harrow. For the past many years we
have used a<br>
> field cultivator which almost never plugs and I have no
desire to go<br>
> back to a spring tooth harrow.<br>
> Greg Hass<br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
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