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<p>The real mystery is why does it only work when we start using the
tractor in the middle of the day?? It only happens when I s tart
the tractor and the cab interior is hot...... I don't have the
patience to diagnose things with the heat and humidity here and no
real place to work anymore. The ice storms and tornadoes took out
my tractor shed and shade trees. The barns are full of stuff that
was in the sheds. I am really getting sick of Oklahoma.<br>
</p>
<p>Cecil<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/21/2019 10:27 PM, Spencer Yost
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:83C22619-7629-45CB-8A97-7EDF609D7269@rdfarms.com">
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I know zip about refrigeration, and Brad clearly knows a ton more,
but I can tell you the solutions I have had in cars I’ve had over
the years the with those same symptoms:
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Dirty condenser(power steering leak put oil on it which
attracted dirt, etc and had to fix the power steering leak too).</div>
<div>Blocked condenser( never understood how a condenser could get
“blocked” but replacing it worked)</div>
<div>Bad compressor</div>
<div>Bad wiring to the compressor clutch(worked intermittently)</div>
<div>Low freon(but you already checked that)</div>
<div>Bad cabin fan(it turned but actually was running on low
regardless of the setting).</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>As a data point, I must say the cabin fan and bad compressor
most closely matched your symptoms. </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>As a second data point, I must admit my umbrella is no match
for an air-conditioned cab (-;</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Because I know zip about refrigeration these were all
repaired by the local mechanics(<span style="background-color:
rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Except the low Freon which I can
handle, and the electrical problem with the clutch which I
managed to fix myself</span>), so take it with a grain of
salt. I have to assume they they told me the truth and I trust
them but???? </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Doubt this helps but I’d thought I’d throw that out there
just in case. </div>
<div>
<div><br>
<div dir="ltr" id="AppleMailSignature">Spencer Yost</div>
<div dir="ltr"><br>
On Jul 21, 2019, at 10:48 PM, <<a
href="mailto:bradloomis@charter.net"
moz-do-not-send="true">bradloomis@charter.net</a>> <<a
href="mailto:bradloomis@charter.net"
moz-do-not-send="true">bradloomis@charter.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:windowtext">If
it’s that hot and cutting out on a HP switch, it
could be actual high pressure. I’d be leery of
bypassing a HP safety. Is there a possibility of
non-condensables in the system? Of course that would
mean you’ve had the system open or it has run in a
vacuum with a leak. I never did automotive A/C only
commercial and industrial refrigeration. In
commercial 134a does not do well with dirty
condensers. Can’t tell you home many compressors
I’ve replaced on beverage coolers like every
convenience store in the world has because the
condensers suck a zillion tons of dust and lint a
day. R12 would tolerate periods of high discharge
way better than 134a. It doesn’t do well in my
vehicles either. If it gets really hot as California
can, any extra load on the engine, be it my VW
diesel or my truck, you can tell the A/C output
drops 10-20°. Temporary, but noticeable on a really
hot day. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:windowtext">Are
the air filters you speak of on the evaporator or
condenser? Clean your condenser, again. Or you have
an electrical issue that is causing something to
open, the clutch, a safety, overload. Harder to
track for sure as you’d have to ohm those items when
the A/C quits while it’s hot. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:windowtext">Best
I can think of.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:windowtext">Brad<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:windowtext"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
style="color:windowtext">From:</span></b><span
style="color:windowtext"> AT <<a
href="mailto:at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com</a>>
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Cecil Bearden<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, July 21, 2019 7:32 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a
href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">at@lists.antique-tractor.com</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [AT] not antique but tractor
related.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I have worked on vehicle air
conditioning systems since I was 13 yrs old. That is
about 52 years. I have seen a lot of crazy problems
and fixed every one that I was asked to work on.
Having said that, I am stumped. The TS110 money pit
has always had a great air conditioner. a couple of
weeks ago I was cutting hay in a field a little ways
from home, so I had the atv to travel back and forth
in case of breakdown, etc... I baled for about 3
hours, then stopped for lunch. I returned and started
the tractor and noted the a/c was not working. The
compressor was not turning. I tried many different
thing including bypassing the low pressure cutout that
had been replaced a day earlier. It finally started
working after I had the doors open to the wind and the
interior of the cab cooled off. This took about an
hour. It worked fine. I put it in the shed. 2 days
later I had to bale another field and got started
about 1pm. It was hot and the A/c would work for
about 2 or 3 minutes then quit for 10 to 15 then run
just a little then quit again. I spent the next 3
hours in a 95deg greenhouse. I spent last Friday
morning checking the freon levels and the switch
connections. I found the air filters were really
badly plugged. I found the only ones were 65 miles
away and got them. Without the filters the A/C worked
fine and had the correct pressures for a R134 system.
Today I got started baling about 10 am and baled
until 5pm and only once was it blowing not real cold,
but other wise worked fine... Later this evening it
was starting to rain and I went to back it into the
shed, the interior of the cab was hotter than a 2
dollar pistol. The A/C would not blow anything but
hot air. The heater does not work on this so, it is
not heater hoses. When the interior is hot, the
system will not get started.... I am thinking a
high pressure cutout switch. I really hat to bypass
things, but I have seen so many NH tractors at sales
of this vintage that have an extra switch in the cab
for turning on the A/C clutch, I think maybe it is a
design defect as there are so many...... Anyone had
any experience like this???<br>
Cecil<br>
<br>
<o:p></o:p></p>
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